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DBR semi-emergency: Brake Bleeding

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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 05:03 AM
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Default DBR semi-emergency: Brake Bleeding

Looking for some quick ideas here guys, gotta leave for DBR in about 24 hours from now

Last weekend I removed all my calipers to install SS brake lines as well as paint the calipers. I let all lines gravity bleed until dry.

When I got done, I used the Motul power bleeder to fill all the lines. According to the manual they give the bleeding order and say that with a power bleeder just follow the directions of the bleeder, and use the same order as manual bleeding. We opened each bleeder, in sequence, until fluid flowed out with little/no bubbles. Then after the first time around each caliper, did it again until absolutely no bubbles. I even tapped on the calipers while bleeding. When we got done the pedal pressure felt just fine (car off).

Well I finally got to drive it for the first time this morning (caliper paint has to dry 24 hours and was out of town for work all week). There is plenty of stopping power, but the brakes now apply about 1" lower on the pedal than they used to. In the past when I've bled brakes and had air remaining, there wasn't enough pedal pressure to be able to stop the car from even a mild roll. I was actually able to lock up the tires (make ABS activate) this morning. So I feel like something else must be going on.

Does anyone have any ideas? When I get home from work I'm going to do a quick manual bleed at each corner, just to be sure. But I don't feel like that will fix it.

If worse comes to worse I can still drive this weekend, I'm just worried that the change in braking pedal height will end up making me foul up a turn at the wrong time (is there a right time on the dragon?).
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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 05:37 AM
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That's a Good Start, re-Bleeding each corner. You may still have a bubble or two in the lines.

Good Luck Andy, Kim and I will see you on Friday.
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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 05:45 AM
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I'd go out and engage ABS a couple times then re-bleed. No telling what might get trapped in the ABS unit.

I let all lines gravity bleed until dry.
I think this was a mistake if I interpret it correctly. Now any nook and cranny on the lines and ABS unit that might trap air are suspect. I'd never let my system bleed out completely. My guess is you have several rounds of bleeding ahead of you.

Last time I screwed up and bled my brakes to the point the master cylinder emptied. It took numerous attempts with driving to get the system bled out to my satisfaction.
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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 09:14 AM
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You might need to crack the lines at the MC, with an asst pushing pedal to get out air there.
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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 12:04 PM
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the master cylinder bleeding sounds like a good place to start... when doing that, which line do I begin with? the one closer to the firewall or closer to the front bumper?
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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 12:33 PM
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I wouldn't to that.

You're pressurizing the whole system from the top with your bleeder. I suspect it's pointless to do this. Drive the car, ABS a couple times, bleed it again. Do that a couple times and see how it feels.
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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Ek9,Sep 21 2006, 04:33 PM
I wouldn't to that.

You're pressurizing the whole system from the top with your bleeder. I suspect it's pointless to do this. Drive the car, ABS a couple times, bleed it again. Do that a couple times and see how it feels.


I've had to do this when removing my calipers for painting...
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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 07:08 PM
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Thanks guys for the tips. I went thru another 3 rounds of bleeding on each caliper using the power bleeder, and everything seems OK now. I didn't notice any obvious bubbles, but there were a couple times it was hard to tell if it was sneaking in between the nipple and tube, or if it actually came from the caliper.

Anyway, problem solved!
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