DIY Mugen Style HT D&P Window seals & Base seals
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,527
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From: Gold Coast
DIY Mugen Style HT D&P Window seals & Base seals
When I had my HT shipped to me over a year ago, I was appalled at the costs involved, not to forget the poor quality that was out there, when it came to accessing and installing the window seals. The distance to have it shipped to me in Australia just made me more determined to work out something better.
Many have PM'd me and from time to time, even had me ship over to them. Well, now that there is better priced & quality stuff out there, with the likes of Spyder (Alberto), whom I've had numerous pm's with. Also GT Motoring made enquires to get my seals, I preferred in the end to keep these for the DIY'ers community.
Shipping from Australia is not as competitive. In other words I have become expensive..
Because my goal was always to provide a better priced and quality alternative, now the time has come to give this to the DIY'er like me. I still think that my seals "hold up tops" excuse the pun... Hopefully you will be able to access the same materials and save yourself some $'s, maybe even use my setup for its durability and quality.
Feel free to pm me if you have any questions or post up your queries.
Here is what I sent to DIY'ers whom have me send over the seals:
Main thing is do not trim rubbers, until final fitment of HT on your car. Be sure to test fit ALL the rubber seals firstly before applying the contact adhesive to both HT and rubber seal surfaces.
Here are some steps for the side window seals install.
1) This is what I used successfully.
2)Starting from the inside edge, contact the first seal as in pic. This seal is easy as it follows the inside edge/lip of your HT. I ran this inside seal along the lip all the way to the OEM rear hardware. This helps get a better seal for the HT base behind the windows and over your shoulder.
Next do the outside seal edge as per pic, a little more difficult as contact can get messy if not too careful.
3) Next, you can apply the roll seal, I think that it is best done whilst your HT is on the car, basically you will be doing this upside down, be sure to apply contact adhesive along the yellow writing line so as to hide when contacted into place.
The application here is totally dependent on how well your windows and the HT align / fit. So you use the roll seal to "push out" the outer seal against the window glass, a bit of push and pull helps here. Start from the lower door corner end, where the OEM rubber shallow pouch is (also used when the soft top is up), push the "uncut" end of the roll seal into place level with the OEM shallow pouch.
4) Lastly the rectangular seal is applied between the inside and roll seals. Again to create outward pressure on the seals to get a good water and airtight seal.
5) Tuck in the windshield end, no gluing needed.
6) Trim of the seal, and make sure the roll seal sits squarely into the OEM soft top shallow pouch recess nicely.
The best HT adjustments come from the OEM rears, these have enough leeway to get it fitting properly. Also the shims under the front latches as this gives height and takes pressure off the HT edge.
As a footnote in the installing of the window seals:
Don't be concerned with the slight "kinks" in the outer seal as it goes around the window line/curve as these sort themselves out within a couple of days with the doors closed and windows up. I don't even notice these any more on mine 12 months later. I used a dab of contact adhesive to help keep flat the little kink.
I also want to emphasize: "KEEP THIS IN MIND WHEN YOU ARE INSTALLING THE WINDOW SEAL IN PARTICULAR THE ROLL SEAL"
What your wanting is a good firm seal to the glass window VS the window being able to go up easily and freely without "jamming" itself with the window seal... This requires on most part "luck" in how you've installed the seals. You will most probably need to do a bit of pushing and pulling on the window seals to get in "perfect" place so as the window can go up freely. I have upgraded the "roll" seal from 9mm to 13mm, reason being it gives a much more firmer finish feel and definitely appears more OEM like. The roll seal is hollow and easily flattens or pinches in with the pressure from window glass, thus with time and patience will fine its own "sweet spot", for the window to go up and down freely whilst maintaining a good seal, again this may take a couple of weeks as the rubber seals all settle in.
With HARD TOP BASE seals:
1) Firstly eyeball the HT on your car, particularly where the base sits over the OEM black trim, this is where you want the seal to bulb/ lip to sit once the seals are installed.
2) With the HT off the car and upside down you should be able to get an idea where the line/ridge is that, you eyeballed in step 1)
3) Contact down the main base seal (that doesn't come with the peel back strip/ self adhesive) as per pic below.
4) Around corners cut small "V's" where the "kinks" appear and continue contacting down right the way round.
5) Lastly apply the peel back stripping over the bottom of the already applied rubber seal.
NOTE:
I ran the HT Base seals all the way along to the end edge of the HT pass where the OEM rear (male) spikes align. This serves to add extra seal in any gaps that may be with your HT and the car edge. You may need to do some adjustments here, either with the OEM rear hardware fitment or the top seal, depending upon your fitment setup/ HT.
6) Once you fit the HT back on the car, check that the lip (now upside down) is sitting directly on the OEM black trim. If not you can easily use your fingers to "push & pull" it into place.
Many have PM'd me and from time to time, even had me ship over to them. Well, now that there is better priced & quality stuff out there, with the likes of Spyder (Alberto), whom I've had numerous pm's with. Also GT Motoring made enquires to get my seals, I preferred in the end to keep these for the DIY'ers community.
Shipping from Australia is not as competitive. In other words I have become expensive..
Because my goal was always to provide a better priced and quality alternative, now the time has come to give this to the DIY'er like me. I still think that my seals "hold up tops" excuse the pun... Hopefully you will be able to access the same materials and save yourself some $'s, maybe even use my setup for its durability and quality.
Feel free to pm me if you have any questions or post up your queries.
Here is what I sent to DIY'ers whom have me send over the seals:
Main thing is do not trim rubbers, until final fitment of HT on your car. Be sure to test fit ALL the rubber seals firstly before applying the contact adhesive to both HT and rubber seal surfaces.
Here are some steps for the side window seals install.
1) This is what I used successfully.
2)Starting from the inside edge, contact the first seal as in pic. This seal is easy as it follows the inside edge/lip of your HT. I ran this inside seal along the lip all the way to the OEM rear hardware. This helps get a better seal for the HT base behind the windows and over your shoulder.
Next do the outside seal edge as per pic, a little more difficult as contact can get messy if not too careful.
3) Next, you can apply the roll seal, I think that it is best done whilst your HT is on the car, basically you will be doing this upside down, be sure to apply contact adhesive along the yellow writing line so as to hide when contacted into place.
The application here is totally dependent on how well your windows and the HT align / fit. So you use the roll seal to "push out" the outer seal against the window glass, a bit of push and pull helps here. Start from the lower door corner end, where the OEM rubber shallow pouch is (also used when the soft top is up), push the "uncut" end of the roll seal into place level with the OEM shallow pouch.
4) Lastly the rectangular seal is applied between the inside and roll seals. Again to create outward pressure on the seals to get a good water and airtight seal.
5) Tuck in the windshield end, no gluing needed.
6) Trim of the seal, and make sure the roll seal sits squarely into the OEM soft top shallow pouch recess nicely.
The best HT adjustments come from the OEM rears, these have enough leeway to get it fitting properly. Also the shims under the front latches as this gives height and takes pressure off the HT edge.
As a footnote in the installing of the window seals:
Don't be concerned with the slight "kinks" in the outer seal as it goes around the window line/curve as these sort themselves out within a couple of days with the doors closed and windows up. I don't even notice these any more on mine 12 months later. I used a dab of contact adhesive to help keep flat the little kink.
I also want to emphasize: "KEEP THIS IN MIND WHEN YOU ARE INSTALLING THE WINDOW SEAL IN PARTICULAR THE ROLL SEAL"
What your wanting is a good firm seal to the glass window VS the window being able to go up easily and freely without "jamming" itself with the window seal... This requires on most part "luck" in how you've installed the seals. You will most probably need to do a bit of pushing and pulling on the window seals to get in "perfect" place so as the window can go up freely. I have upgraded the "roll" seal from 9mm to 13mm, reason being it gives a much more firmer finish feel and definitely appears more OEM like. The roll seal is hollow and easily flattens or pinches in with the pressure from window glass, thus with time and patience will fine its own "sweet spot", for the window to go up and down freely whilst maintaining a good seal, again this may take a couple of weeks as the rubber seals all settle in.
With HARD TOP BASE seals:
1) Firstly eyeball the HT on your car, particularly where the base sits over the OEM black trim, this is where you want the seal to bulb/ lip to sit once the seals are installed.
2) With the HT off the car and upside down you should be able to get an idea where the line/ridge is that, you eyeballed in step 1)
3) Contact down the main base seal (that doesn't come with the peel back strip/ self adhesive) as per pic below.
4) Around corners cut small "V's" where the "kinks" appear and continue contacting down right the way round.
5) Lastly apply the peel back stripping over the bottom of the already applied rubber seal.
NOTE:
I ran the HT Base seals all the way along to the end edge of the HT pass where the OEM rear (male) spikes align. This serves to add extra seal in any gaps that may be with your HT and the car edge. You may need to do some adjustments here, either with the OEM rear hardware fitment or the top seal, depending upon your fitment setup/ HT.
6) Once you fit the HT back on the car, check that the lip (now upside down) is sitting directly on the OEM black trim. If not you can easily use your fingers to "push & pull" it into place.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,527
Likes: 5
From: Gold Coast
close up pic of the main HT wind seal roll, used in the DIY Stock Shift Boot "stiffy"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...f=252&t=837282
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...f=252&t=837282
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 435
Likes: 3
When I had my HT shipped to me over a year ago, I was appalled at the costs involved, not to forget the poor quality that was out there, when it came to accessing and installing the window seals. The distance to have it shipped to me in Australia just made me more determined to work out something better.
Many have PM'd me and from time to time, even had me ship over to them. Well, now that there is better priced & quality stuff out there, with the likes of Spyder (Alberto), whom I've had numerous pm's with. Also GT Motoring made enquires to get my seals, I preferred in the end to keep these for the DIY'ers community.
Shipping from Australia is not as competitive. In other words I have become expensive..
Because my goal was always to provide a better priced and quality alternative, now the time has come to give this to the DIY'er like me. I still think that my seals "hold up tops" excuse the pun... Hopefully you will be able to access the same materials and save yourself some $'s, maybe even use my setup for its durability and quality.
Feel free to pm me if you have any questions or post up your queries.
Here is what I sent to DIY'ers whom have me send over the seals:
Main thing is do not trim rubbers, until final fitment of HT on your car. Be sure to test fit ALL the rubber seals firstly before applying the contact adhesive to both HT and rubber seal surfaces.
Here are some steps for the side window seals install.
1) This is what I used successfully.
2)Starting from the inside edge, contact the first seal as in pic. This seal is easy as it follows the inside edge/lip of your HT. I ran this inside seal along the lip all the way to the OEM rear hardware. This helps get a better seal for the HT base behind the windows and over your shoulder.
Next do the outside seal edge as per pic, a little more difficult as contact can get messy if not too careful.
3) Next, you can apply the roll seal, I think that it is best done whilst your HT is on the car, basically you will be doing this upside down, be sure to apply contact adhesive along the yellow writing line so as to hide when contacted into place.
The application here is totally dependent on how well your windows and the HT align / fit. So you use the roll seal to "push out" the outer seal against the window glass, a bit of push and pull helps here. Start from the lower door corner end, where the OEM rubber shallow pouch is (also used when the soft top is up), push the "uncut" end of the roll seal into place level with the OEM shallow pouch.
4) Lastly the rectangular seal is applied between the inside and roll seals. Again to create outward pressure on the seals to get a good water and airtight seal.
5) Tuck in the windshield end, no gluing needed.
6) Trim of the seal, and make sure the roll seal sits squarely into the OEM soft top shallow pouch recess nicely.
The best HT adjustments come from the OEM rears, these have enough leeway to get it fitting properly. Also the shims under the front latches as this gives height and takes pressure off the HT edge.
As a footnote in the installing of the window seals:
Don't be concerned with the slight "kinks" in the outer seal as it goes around the window line/curve as these sort themselves out within a couple of days with the doors closed and windows up. I don't even notice these any more on mine 12 months later. I used a dab of contact adhesive to help keep flat the little kink.
I also want to emphasize: "KEEP THIS IN MIND WHEN YOU ARE INSTALLING THE WINDOW SEAL IN PARTICULAR THE ROLL SEAL"
What your wanting is a good firm seal to the glass window VS the window being able to go up easily and freely without "jamming" itself with the window seal... This requires on most part "luck" in how you've installed the seals. You will most probably need to do a bit of pushing and pulling on the window seals to get in "perfect" place so as the window can go up freely. I have upgraded the "roll" seal from 9mm to 13mm, reason being it gives a much more firmer finish feel and definitely appears more OEM like. The roll seal is hollow and easily flattens or pinches in with the pressure from window glass, thus with time and patience will fine its own "sweet spot", for the window to go up and down freely whilst maintaining a good seal, again this may take a couple of weeks as the rubber seals all settle in.
With HARD TOP BASE seals:
1) Firstly eyeball the HT on your car, particularly where the base sits over the OEM black trim, this is where you want the seal to bulb/ lip to sit once the seals are installed.
2) With the HT off the car and upside down you should be able to get an idea where the line/ridge is that, you eyeballed in step 1)
3) Contact down the main base seal (that doesn't come with the peel back strip/ self adhesive) as per pic below.
4) Around corners cut small "V's" where the "kinks" appear and continue contacting down right the way round.
5) Lastly apply the peel back stripping over the bottom of the already applied rubber seal.
NOTE:
I ran the HT Base seals all the way along to the end edge of the HT pass where the OEM rear (male) spikes align. This serves to add extra seal in any gaps that may be with your HT and the car edge. You may need to do some adjustments here, either with the OEM rear hardware fitment or the top seal, depending upon your fitment setup/ HT.
6) Once you fit the HT back on the car, check that the lip (now upside down) is sitting directly on the OEM black trim. If not you can easily use your fingers to "push & pull" it into place.
Many have PM'd me and from time to time, even had me ship over to them. Well, now that there is better priced & quality stuff out there, with the likes of Spyder (Alberto), whom I've had numerous pm's with. Also GT Motoring made enquires to get my seals, I preferred in the end to keep these for the DIY'ers community.
Shipping from Australia is not as competitive. In other words I have become expensive..
Because my goal was always to provide a better priced and quality alternative, now the time has come to give this to the DIY'er like me. I still think that my seals "hold up tops" excuse the pun... Hopefully you will be able to access the same materials and save yourself some $'s, maybe even use my setup for its durability and quality.
Feel free to pm me if you have any questions or post up your queries.
Here is what I sent to DIY'ers whom have me send over the seals:
Main thing is do not trim rubbers, until final fitment of HT on your car. Be sure to test fit ALL the rubber seals firstly before applying the contact adhesive to both HT and rubber seal surfaces.
Here are some steps for the side window seals install.
1) This is what I used successfully.
2)Starting from the inside edge, contact the first seal as in pic. This seal is easy as it follows the inside edge/lip of your HT. I ran this inside seal along the lip all the way to the OEM rear hardware. This helps get a better seal for the HT base behind the windows and over your shoulder.
Next do the outside seal edge as per pic, a little more difficult as contact can get messy if not too careful.
3) Next, you can apply the roll seal, I think that it is best done whilst your HT is on the car, basically you will be doing this upside down, be sure to apply contact adhesive along the yellow writing line so as to hide when contacted into place.
The application here is totally dependent on how well your windows and the HT align / fit. So you use the roll seal to "push out" the outer seal against the window glass, a bit of push and pull helps here. Start from the lower door corner end, where the OEM rubber shallow pouch is (also used when the soft top is up), push the "uncut" end of the roll seal into place level with the OEM shallow pouch.
4) Lastly the rectangular seal is applied between the inside and roll seals. Again to create outward pressure on the seals to get a good water and airtight seal.
5) Tuck in the windshield end, no gluing needed.
6) Trim of the seal, and make sure the roll seal sits squarely into the OEM soft top shallow pouch recess nicely.
The best HT adjustments come from the OEM rears, these have enough leeway to get it fitting properly. Also the shims under the front latches as this gives height and takes pressure off the HT edge.
As a footnote in the installing of the window seals:
Don't be concerned with the slight "kinks" in the outer seal as it goes around the window line/curve as these sort themselves out within a couple of days with the doors closed and windows up. I don't even notice these any more on mine 12 months later. I used a dab of contact adhesive to help keep flat the little kink.
I also want to emphasize: "KEEP THIS IN MIND WHEN YOU ARE INSTALLING THE WINDOW SEAL IN PARTICULAR THE ROLL SEAL"
What your wanting is a good firm seal to the glass window VS the window being able to go up easily and freely without "jamming" itself with the window seal... This requires on most part "luck" in how you've installed the seals. You will most probably need to do a bit of pushing and pulling on the window seals to get in "perfect" place so as the window can go up freely. I have upgraded the "roll" seal from 9mm to 13mm, reason being it gives a much more firmer finish feel and definitely appears more OEM like. The roll seal is hollow and easily flattens or pinches in with the pressure from window glass, thus with time and patience will fine its own "sweet spot", for the window to go up and down freely whilst maintaining a good seal, again this may take a couple of weeks as the rubber seals all settle in.
With HARD TOP BASE seals:
1) Firstly eyeball the HT on your car, particularly where the base sits over the OEM black trim, this is where you want the seal to bulb/ lip to sit once the seals are installed.
2) With the HT off the car and upside down you should be able to get an idea where the line/ridge is that, you eyeballed in step 1)
3) Contact down the main base seal (that doesn't come with the peel back strip/ self adhesive) as per pic below.
4) Around corners cut small "V's" where the "kinks" appear and continue contacting down right the way round.
5) Lastly apply the peel back stripping over the bottom of the already applied rubber seal.
NOTE:
I ran the HT Base seals all the way along to the end edge of the HT pass where the OEM rear (male) spikes align. This serves to add extra seal in any gaps that may be with your HT and the car edge. You may need to do some adjustments here, either with the OEM rear hardware fitment or the top seal, depending upon your fitment setup/ HT.
6) Once you fit the HT back on the car, check that the lip (now upside down) is sitting directly on the OEM black trim. If not you can easily use your fingers to "push & pull" it into place.
Where do you order the seals in the second and third picture????? I may need to do this for my top!
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 435
Likes: 3
Ill let you know if I find any. And Forbidden is sending me some new seals since I probably didn't adjust the seal correctly. So if this doesn't fix it and I can't find some seals here, ill let you know man! Thanks!
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red@9k
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Aug 5, 2010 12:50 PM