OEM wheel weight?
I am still confused about the number of available aftermarket wheels for this car. Is it due to the offset or the caliper clearing the back of the rim? If its the offset, what offset should I be looking for??? I have found about 5 diff wheels I like but not sure what to do.
Many Thanks,
Many Thanks,
Offset determines how far in or out the centerline of the wheel is set from the hub mounting surface. This determines and affects suspension geometry (and in the long term, suspension wear).
Depending on the shape of the insides of the spokes, you may have a problem with clearance of calipers - especially given the large positive offsets (meaning wheel mounted closer to the centerline of the car) of Honda wheel offsets. The only way to determine this is if the wheel manufacturer guarantees a fitment for the car - some do it while being able to maintain a close to OEM spec offset, others don't.
For a given width of wheel, if the offset is too small (ie, not positive enough), it will stick too far out of the car and you could have fender rubbing problems under suspension compression. THough this is determined by the tire as well.
To throw another wrench into the equation, you want to try to get hubcentric wheels - so that the car is not loaded onto the 5 lugs. The lugs are supposed to handle the rotational shear loads from acceleration and braking and the stretch/stress loads from cornering only. The hub center should handle most of the directional loads - weight of the car. I try to stay away from hub adapters to center wheels.
The ideal wheel offset from a suspension geometry perspective is the factory setting if the wheels are of the same width as OEM. If you go wider, you will need a less positive offset just to get the wheel/tire to not rub the spring and wheel well insides. But you cannot go too positive otherwise you will rub the fender lips.
Based on most people's experience here, it seems that for a 7" front and 7.5-8" rear, assuming the spokes clear the calipers, you should try to get a front offset of around 45-53 and a rear offset of around 48-58. The Mugen MF10's seem to have a good offset and weight - but they are expensive.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by RoadTrip
[B]I am still confused about the number of available aftermarket wheels for this car. Is it due to the offset or the caliper clearing the back of the rim? If its the offset, what offset should I be looking for??? I have found about 5 diff wheels I like but not sure what to do.
Depending on the shape of the insides of the spokes, you may have a problem with clearance of calipers - especially given the large positive offsets (meaning wheel mounted closer to the centerline of the car) of Honda wheel offsets. The only way to determine this is if the wheel manufacturer guarantees a fitment for the car - some do it while being able to maintain a close to OEM spec offset, others don't.
For a given width of wheel, if the offset is too small (ie, not positive enough), it will stick too far out of the car and you could have fender rubbing problems under suspension compression. THough this is determined by the tire as well.
To throw another wrench into the equation, you want to try to get hubcentric wheels - so that the car is not loaded onto the 5 lugs. The lugs are supposed to handle the rotational shear loads from acceleration and braking and the stretch/stress loads from cornering only. The hub center should handle most of the directional loads - weight of the car. I try to stay away from hub adapters to center wheels.
The ideal wheel offset from a suspension geometry perspective is the factory setting if the wheels are of the same width as OEM. If you go wider, you will need a less positive offset just to get the wheel/tire to not rub the spring and wheel well insides. But you cannot go too positive otherwise you will rub the fender lips.
Based on most people's experience here, it seems that for a 7" front and 7.5-8" rear, assuming the spokes clear the calipers, you should try to get a front offset of around 45-53 and a rear offset of around 48-58. The Mugen MF10's seem to have a good offset and weight - but they are expensive.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by RoadTrip
[B]I am still confused about the number of available aftermarket wheels for this car. Is it due to the offset or the caliper clearing the back of the rim? If its the offset, what offset should I be looking for??? I have found about 5 diff wheels I like but not sure what to do.
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Whilst not a lightweight the ROH Adrenalin (see the Group Buy) is 17x7 at the front with a 47mm offset and 17x8 at the rear with a 52mm offset.

As you can see they fit under the guards perfectly and they do not rub. They have been tested on NSW National Park roads (which should be the universal test for suspension travel).
They are hub centric using the supplied adaptor rings.
Oh, and if I forgot to mention, they are $855 a set landed in LA.

As you can see they fit under the guards perfectly and they do not rub. They have been tested on NSW National Park roads (which should be the universal test for suspension travel).
They are hub centric using the supplied adaptor rings.
Oh, and if I forgot to mention, they are $855 a set landed in LA.
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