CarbotechAndie

Having my name slandered online is not acceptable, so here is the information AGAIN:


ARRANGED BY DRY BOILING POINT:

DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4
DRY:502F -- WET:343F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER
DRY:509F -- WET:365F --- MOTUL 5.1
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO-SYNTHETIC SUPER DOT 610


ARRANGED BY WET BOILING POINT:

DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4
DRY:502F -- WET:343F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER
DRY:509F -- WET:365F --- MOTUL 5.1
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO-SYNTHETIC SUPER DOT 610
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF

cdelena

Thanks for the handy list.. the only other data needed (besides approximate price) is to know how rapidly they absorb water.. what is the boiling point 60 days after a flush? As I understand it, the number will vary quite a bit and that is the reason some of the high BP formulations are not recommended for street use.

krazik

Hmm, the Castrol SRF, looks quite nice.

Good Dry and Excelent Wet performance. You'ld almost never need to change it

cdelena

Don't think that is true. It has been pointed out to me that fluid keeps absorbing moisture.. which boils at 212F regardless. I think the wet point is at 3% water absorption but that was the point of my question above.. can't tell much unless you know how rapidly a fluid absorbs moisture.

I found these fluid tips while looking for an answer...

THINGS TO REMEMBER
Brake fluids dry boiling point is more important then wet boiling point when used in a racing brake system.
Passenger cars very rarely will undergo a brake fluid change making the wet boiling point more important.
Racing brake system fluid is changed often and a system with fresh fluid will most likely not contain water.
Because of this, racers should be concerned with the dry boiling point.
Racing fluid exceeds DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 dry boiling point specifications.
Never use silicone based fluids in racing brake systems.
Using racing brake fluid will increase performance of the braking system.
Never reuse fluid.

statueman

Sooooo....If I use my car mainly for the street but also auto-x say twice a month and I don't want to change the fluid all the time, what should I use?

Mikey

[QUOTE]Originally posted by krazik
[B]Hmm, the Castrol SRF, looks quite nice.

Good Dry and Excelent Wet performance.

cdelena

Auto-x usually won't generate too much heat so any of the listed fluids will be fine. I think a full fill of fresh fluid is recommended every two years but if you just bleed each caliper well two or three times a year you should be ok.

pfb

Great info here.

I've never seen an actual rating or quantitative analysis of different brake fluid brands moisture absorption rates...

Anecdotally, I've heard that Ate (my current choice) absorbs water slowly and that Castrol SRF absorbs it pretty quickly. I don't know about Motul, which would be my second choice if Ate was unavailable.

For my motorcycles and utility vehicles, I use Castrol LMA, which does not have the high boiling point of the racing fluids, but still higher than most stock fluids. LMA stands for Low Moisture Absorption, so change intervals can be longer.

As a sidenote, I've heard that Ford Heavy Duty has a very high dry boiling point, and is very inexpensive. A good choice for a racecar or other vehicle that has it's fluid purged frequently but sees high heat levels in the brake fluid...

pfb

More brake fluid info... Copied from somewhere, I can't remember where!

[QUOTE]
Castrol SRF 518

BAD S2K

I have the ATE Super Blue and it seems to be just what I needed.