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Wishbone Woes

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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 01:03 PM
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Default Wishbone Woes

When I had the Nitron suspension installed onto my car the dealer couldn't align it correctly because on of the rear bushes had completely seized and I was quoted
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by StevenM,Aug 31 2005, 10:03 PM
If you do a search Biker1 has done a very good post on fixing the problem.
I belive its in the Technical FAQ now

Hmmm, I was going to remove and paint all four sets of wishbones this weekend - perhaps biting off more than I can chew? I didn't realise this would knacker the alignment, as long as I didn't turn any adjusters? I have to admit to not being completely familair with the bits which do the adjustment, I'm only aware of what camber, caster etc are
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by craig armstrong,Aug 31 2005, 09:13 PM
Hmmm, I was going to remove and paint all four sets of wishbones this weekend - perhaps biting off more than I can chew? I didn't realise this would knacker the alignment, as long as I didn't turn any adjusters? I have to admit to not being completely familair with the bits which do the adjustment, I'm only aware of what camber, caster etc are
You will knacker the alignment, irrespective of where the adjusters are, as the load on the rubber won't be the same.

The S2000, like most cars, uses metallastic type bushes. These work by having two metal sleeves, and inner and an outer, joined with rubber. The outer goes in one suspension part, and is fixed. The inner is bolted to the other part. The suspension movement comes from the rubber flexing - not anything rotation. That's why you have to load the suspension to approximiately the right ride height before torquing the bolts up - you want the rubber to be under no load when the inner and outer metal parts of the bush are torqued to the suspension. So, even if you don't move any adjusters, you're not likely to be able to replicate the same load on the bush rubbers as you had before, so the car will settle in a different alignment.

Steve - sorry if it sounded easy. I've been there so beleive me I know what's involved! I think I went through about a dozen blades in all.... The only easy way of doing it without damaging anything would be an air powered hacksaw - but since that needs quite a big compressor, and an air saw, I didn't think the suggestion would be that helpful. Oh, and I'd keep the wishbone that came off - the bush at the front of the wishbone that seems fine is the one that's hard to get hold of a replacement for.

-Brian.
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 09:39 PM
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Right, thanks Brian, bearing in mind the front end was raised 10mm since my alignment was done AND Nitron replaced the springs on the front so they presumably unbolted the top wishbone to get the NItron front shocks off, I imagine my alignment isn't right anyway. I'll sort my wishbones out gand et the geo done again
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 11:10 PM
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I got myself an 18v reciprocating saw hoping that this will make the job a *lot* easier to cut through the second bolt.

I haven't started looking at the fronts yet
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 11:29 PM
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I take it that its too tight to get a Dremel in?
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 11:30 PM
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If anyone finds they are wanting the "Rear control arms" because of siezure I have the left and right arms complete that are available.
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by craig armstrong,Sep 1 2005, 07:29 AM
I take it that its too tight to get a Dremel in?
The brackets holding the wishbone stop you using a dremel to cut the bolts .... I tried this
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Old Sep 1, 2005 | 12:11 AM
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A sure fire case of prevention is better than cure!
I think I shall be stripping mine down over the winter.
Paint those wishbones and grease those bolts!
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Old Sep 1, 2005 | 12:48 AM
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Great piece of work StevenM and biker1!

This could be a good preventative project. I've got a few questions....

Was there not a suggestion to replace the rubber bushes with some nylon bushes and did someone not have some?

Would it be feasible to do front then rear, top and bottom at a time (say over a weekend) and would that be OK to drive the car again till the next weekend and then over, say 2/3 weeks then get the alignment done. What if any would the consequences be.

If all the bolts came off (non seized) should they be replaced with 'better' ones?
Should they be painted?
What are the most likely to seize bolts? I guess it's a lottery and you wont know which bolts will seize.

Is there a special grease that should be used? Or is the silicone stuff fine?

The suspension movement comes from the rubber flexing - not anything rotation. That's why you have to load the suspension to approximiately the right ride height before torquing the bolts up - you want the rubber to be under no load when the inner and outer metal parts of the bush are torqued to the suspension. So, even if you don't move any adjusters, you're not likely to be able to replicate the same load on the bush rubbers as you had before, so the car will settle in a different alignment.
Brian does this say, lower the car onto it's wheels to approx. ride height but only ride height allowing no load to be taken by the suspension (the wishbones). Is that not difficult? As soon as I start to lift the car on the trolley jack, I 'lift' the car and the wheels are still in contact with the ground. Can you clarify this. I admit I could be being a little dense here, it's been known, rare but known.

How do you do that?

Any particular paint for the wishbones, Hammerite springs to mind. We need a poll on colours to use.
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