Wishbone Woes
When I had the Nitron suspension installed onto my car the dealer couldn't align it correctly because on of the rear bushes had completely seized and I was quoted
Originally Posted by StevenM,Aug 31 2005, 10:03 PM
If you do a search Biker1 has done a very good post on fixing the problem.

Hmmm, I was going to remove and paint all four sets of wishbones this weekend - perhaps biting off more than I can chew? I didn't realise this would knacker the alignment, as long as I didn't turn any adjusters? I have to admit to not being completely familair with the bits which do the adjustment, I'm only aware of what camber, caster etc are
Originally Posted by craig armstrong,Aug 31 2005, 09:13 PM
Hmmm, I was going to remove and paint all four sets of wishbones this weekend - perhaps biting off more than I can chew? I didn't realise this would knacker the alignment, as long as I didn't turn any adjusters? I have to admit to not being completely familair with the bits which do the adjustment, I'm only aware of what camber, caster etc are
The S2000, like most cars, uses metallastic type bushes. These work by having two metal sleeves, and inner and an outer, joined with rubber. The outer goes in one suspension part, and is fixed. The inner is bolted to the other part. The suspension movement comes from the rubber flexing - not anything rotation. That's why you have to load the suspension to approximiately the right ride height before torquing the bolts up - you want the rubber to be under no load when the inner and outer metal parts of the bush are torqued to the suspension. So, even if you don't move any adjusters, you're not likely to be able to replicate the same load on the bush rubbers as you had before, so the car will settle in a different alignment.
Steve - sorry if it sounded easy. I've been there so beleive me I know what's involved! I think I went through about a dozen blades in all.... The only easy way of doing it without damaging anything would be an air powered hacksaw - but since that needs quite a big compressor, and an air saw, I didn't think the suggestion would be that helpful. Oh, and I'd keep the wishbone that came off - the bush at the front of the wishbone that seems fine is the one that's hard to get hold of a replacement for.
-Brian.
Right, thanks Brian, bearing in mind the front end was raised 10mm since my alignment was done AND Nitron replaced the springs on the front so they presumably unbolted the top wishbone to get the NItron front shocks off, I imagine my alignment isn't right anyway. I'll sort my wishbones out gand et the geo done again
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Originally Posted by craig armstrong,Sep 1 2005, 07:29 AM
I take it that its too tight to get a Dremel in?
This could be a good preventative project. I've got a few questions....
Was there not a suggestion to replace the rubber bushes with some nylon bushes and did someone not have some?
Would it be feasible to do front then rear, top and bottom at a time (say over a weekend) and would that be OK to drive the car again till the next weekend and then over, say 2/3 weeks then get the alignment done. What if any would the consequences be.
If all the bolts came off (non seized) should they be replaced with 'better' ones?
Should they be painted?
What are the most likely to seize bolts? I guess it's a lottery and you wont know which bolts will seize.
Is there a special grease that should be used? Or is the silicone stuff fine?
The suspension movement comes from the rubber flexing - not anything rotation. That's why you have to load the suspension to approximiately the right ride height before torquing the bolts up - you want the rubber to be under no load when the inner and outer metal parts of the bush are torqued to the suspension. So, even if you don't move any adjusters, you're not likely to be able to replicate the same load on the bush rubbers as you had before, so the car will settle in a different alignment.
How do you do that?
Any particular paint for the wishbones, Hammerite springs to mind. We need a poll on colours to use.






