Here's a teaser:



Give me about 15 minutes for more pics...humor yourself by playing "Name That Component"

 

Legend
Gray - Full Range Signal
Red - High Pass Signal
Brown (Maize?)/Green - Band Pass Signal
Blue - Low Pass Signal

Deck - Clarion DXZ735MP
Processor - ARC Audio MX3
High Amp - JL Audio 300/4
Low Amp - Autotek SX-4160
3500 Hz and above - Focal TN45 in kick (75 W each)
500 Hz to 3500 Hz - Morel USA MR-55 in kick (75 W each)
65 Hz to 500 Hz - Adire Koda in door (100 W each)
65 Hz and below - Dayton DSQ in trunk (320 W)

 

Waited too long and now it's too dark

But here you go anyway:

 

btw...JL amp there...good idea or bad idea?

I know it looks busy

As for how it sounds, there's a pretty decent difference when compared to how it was before but it's gonna take *a lot* of tweaking to get it perfect

 

WOW b-man... looking good.

those kick panels look great. how'd you do them?

and the trunk setup looks good... looks to be a clean install... i like how you've salvaged that space below the trunk hinge.

JL amp? considering the heat sinks are on the 'down' side, i might consider flipping it... just to dissipate heat better... is it running hot?

(speaking of dissipating heat... i've just finished fighting my own battle w/ amp shutdowns... new setup is running cool... hoping to have pics very soon...)

 

Damn! Most impressive.

 

i have a jl 300/2 amp and all is does is suck my battery dry... good quality amp but will ruin a battery

 

What do you recommend to prevent suckage?Made by a local shop...real simple from what it looked like...just baffles covered in vinyl I'll see how it goes for a little bit...it's great to have the controls on top while I'm still in the tweaking stage

It's not bolted to anything so I can play with a better location in the future...or just take it out and lay it on the trunk floor

For now, I'm looking at a 12 hour road trip from SF to Seattle starting this afternoon and I wanted to make sure I had everything in

 

lol... i'm suddenly in this boat as well... between my Kicker ZR240 and my Adcom 4304 - when i'm at high volumes, my battery will last about 10 minutes before i can't turn the engine over and about 15 minutes before everything starts to fade away... so far i've only drained it super low once (first time i discovered the issue), and i caught it going low (too low to crank) the 2nd time... so, now when i want to tweak or configure - i've got to run the engine while i'm working on it... i doubt i did any damage to the battery, but i'll be more cautious in the future.

ah the suffering we withstand...

do you mind saying how much you paid to have the shop build them? PM me if you don't want it public... i inquired about having some made a while ago, but the price they gave me seemed excessively high. (then again, they wanted over $200 to build the amp rack i designed and ended up building myself... )
i figured you put the controls on top for that reason, but i thought i'd mention it b/c i had an amp many years ago that was mounted similar to that, and i used to have fits with it on hot summer days... if you're looking for somewhere to mount, is it small enough to allow mounting it inside the spare?

 

well if you leave it there, i'd slip in a fan to circulate the air down there. but those amps run very cool anyway, and it doesn't get that hot in the bay area.