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Synhro helical pfitner gearbox

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Old Nov 2, 2003 | 06:59 PM
  #1  
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Default Synhro helical pfitner gearbox

The owner of Pfitner racing gearbox just gave me a call and said one of you guys from sydney just sent him a box to build one and whether I want to get one while he's at it I have 24 hours to think about it

So which one of us order this
Elauq was it you? or was it u AusS2000? Is this your secret project AusS2000?

I will drop down to Pfitner and see what's the helical box for the S2000 is like tthis afternoon (as I did not have time to talk to my friend earlier).
Does anyone know what are the benefit of this one?
How is it different from a dogbox?
Is it very noisy compare to the OEM?

The owner at Pfitzner said he will custom make all the gear ratios. What is the best gear ratio combination for occasional track with a 4.44 rear diff ratio?
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Old Nov 2, 2003 | 07:36 PM
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No, it's not me. More likely to be Chris Barry or maybe someone not on this board.

All my efforts are directed towards the Lamborghini for now.
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Old Nov 2, 2003 | 08:28 PM
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Aus2000, is your secret project supercharing your nephew's Lambo??
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Old Nov 2, 2003 | 09:11 PM
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Just getting it going would be an improvement.
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Old Nov 2, 2003 | 09:55 PM
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Not me (yet).

The standard box uses helical cut gears with syncros so it sounds like a simple ratio change. The gears are ground off the shafts and new gears laser welded in their place.

Race boxes normally use straight cut gears and dog engagement. In simple terms a dog box uses very simple dovetail shaped teeth to engage gears like a motorbike or older truck. A dog box can be a real pain in the ass on the street, but on the track you can change gear as quick as you can move your hand without worrying about shredding syncro rings.

Straight cut gears are noise, helical mostly quiet, and semi helical reasonably quiet.

Advantages of a close ratio set are that you drop far less rpm between gears, you will tend to have a ratio to suit most corners and because there is less rpm drop between gears the syncros dont work as hard and last a lot longer. One downside is your first gear can get a bit tall. One solution is to use a relatively low first gear ratio, with second to sixth the close ratio set.

Ratio wise, there is one thing to consider with the S2k gearbox. It uses a output pair of gears in the back of the gearbox. Changing this back gear is the same as changing the diff ratio. You could get the equivalent of a 4.44 diff ratio, and close ratios by only touching the gearbox.

Ratio wise, have a look at the Quaife web site. Their 6 speed ratios are pretty well thought out. Decide what top speed you want and work backwards from there.

Speedracer.
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Old Nov 3, 2003 | 01:52 AM
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thanks for that informative post chris_barry

I went to the place today
have a guess what this is




Hint: it's from a gear box
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Old Nov 3, 2003 | 04:54 AM
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Hey Guys, thats my box, since I broke my second gearbox, I needed to strengthen it, I have broken second gear 2 twice.

Gearbox should be a lot stronger, and it should be ready at the end of the month, I am planing on boosting my car to over 20psi, so I need a stronger box. I will also be replacing the diff at the same time,

I will keep you guys posted if your interested to see how strong it really is, I will take it to the track when it is ready

Regards
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Old Nov 3, 2003 | 05:03 AM
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Keep us posted Elaug
How much power are you putting to the rear wheel atm?
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Old Nov 3, 2003 | 05:23 AM
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380 HP at the wheels using 17psi, I had to drop the boost down to 15psi, because I blew 2 boxes in a week
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Old Nov 3, 2003 | 01:36 PM
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The oem gearbox is onlly able to withstand 400hp at the crank.
What did Pfitzner rate the new one Elauq?
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