Brake, Tranny and Differential Fluid Change!
This past weekend, I drained and bled the brakes, changed the tranny and rear differential fluids, replaced my hepa filter and inspected my S2000.
All these things are extremely easy to do, but I did not take photos for a DIY post. There are a few about these already. I highly recommend doing these yourself rather than paying the dealer, as the price is ridiculous for something that is so easy to do.
The DIY posts that I read were right on. BUT, you do not have to let the tranny and diff fluids drain for an hour or more. Unless you're that anal and have nothing else to do in your life, you can let it drain out for a few minutes. Put the new washers on, put the bolts back on and refill them. It's really the difference between getting 98 percent of the fluid out versus 99 percent. As fluid will always remain along the linings of the car, etc. So you don't have to make this an all-day project.
Also, rather than doing the gheto-fied version of a tube duct taped to the bottle of tranny or diff fluid, go to the local auto parts store and get yourself a pump that will screw onto the top of your fluid bottle. It's cheap and easy to do and is better than the ghetto-fied version. This way, you don't have to worry about any leaks or the tube coming off because you didn't tape it right. You can get one of these pumps for about $10. And you'll use it often.
The tranny and rear diff changes are as easy as an oil change. You will need to get the car on a lift or jacks for the tranny drain and fill, but the rear diff drain and fill could possibly be done without raising the car (depending on how big/small you are).
After doing the changes, the car did run much smoother. The tranny and diff fluid changes made a noticeable improvement immediately.
I purchased the new washers (along with other stuff) from Hardtopguy. I had purchased my fluids from Honda (with an employee discount thanks to a friend) and a local auto parts store.
Brake fluid change: Recommended every 36 months, regardless of mileage. It took two bottles of Honda DOT 3 brake fluid. Also replaced clutch fluid and inspected master cylinder and slave.
Tranny fluid change: Required just under two bottles of Honda Manual Transmission fluid. New washer for fill plug.
Rear Diff fluid change: Purchased Mobil 1 synthetic rear diff fluid. Took just under one quart. Replaced both fill and drain plug washers.
In addition, I replaced my Hepa filter. At 25K miles, it was FILTHY! I definitely recommend changing it every 15-20K miles.
I had already changed my air filter and my next oil change is due in another 1,000 miles (Mobil 1 5W-30 Full-Syn for "Newer Cars").
Now, go out there and DIY!
All these things are extremely easy to do, but I did not take photos for a DIY post. There are a few about these already. I highly recommend doing these yourself rather than paying the dealer, as the price is ridiculous for something that is so easy to do.
The DIY posts that I read were right on. BUT, you do not have to let the tranny and diff fluids drain for an hour or more. Unless you're that anal and have nothing else to do in your life, you can let it drain out for a few minutes. Put the new washers on, put the bolts back on and refill them. It's really the difference between getting 98 percent of the fluid out versus 99 percent. As fluid will always remain along the linings of the car, etc. So you don't have to make this an all-day project.
Also, rather than doing the gheto-fied version of a tube duct taped to the bottle of tranny or diff fluid, go to the local auto parts store and get yourself a pump that will screw onto the top of your fluid bottle. It's cheap and easy to do and is better than the ghetto-fied version. This way, you don't have to worry about any leaks or the tube coming off because you didn't tape it right. You can get one of these pumps for about $10. And you'll use it often.
The tranny and rear diff changes are as easy as an oil change. You will need to get the car on a lift or jacks for the tranny drain and fill, but the rear diff drain and fill could possibly be done without raising the car (depending on how big/small you are).
After doing the changes, the car did run much smoother. The tranny and diff fluid changes made a noticeable improvement immediately.
I purchased the new washers (along with other stuff) from Hardtopguy. I had purchased my fluids from Honda (with an employee discount thanks to a friend) and a local auto parts store.
Brake fluid change: Recommended every 36 months, regardless of mileage. It took two bottles of Honda DOT 3 brake fluid. Also replaced clutch fluid and inspected master cylinder and slave.
Tranny fluid change: Required just under two bottles of Honda Manual Transmission fluid. New washer for fill plug.
Rear Diff fluid change: Purchased Mobil 1 synthetic rear diff fluid. Took just under one quart. Replaced both fill and drain plug washers.
In addition, I replaced my Hepa filter. At 25K miles, it was FILTHY! I definitely recommend changing it every 15-20K miles.
I had already changed my air filter and my next oil change is due in another 1,000 miles (Mobil 1 5W-30 Full-Syn for "Newer Cars").
Now, go out there and DIY!
I don't think the use of a bottle with a fill nipple and some hosing on it (with or without duct tape) is ghetto - I think it is smart. Even though I have a hand pump, and Griot's expensive gear oil syring, if one has the room to do the bottle with hose routine, that is the fastest and easier way to do it. I think it only works with the tranny. I actually bought a bottle of Valvoline gear oil (cheap stuff) just to get the bottle - i dumped the gear oil into my recycle jug, and will use it to fill the tranny with MTF when i am ready to change.
Did you see the posts on the 90w LE607 diff oil? Might consider that next time. It is very hard to pump unless you heat it up. I generally agree about not letting the old fills drain forever, even overnight - it is uneccessary, and there is always the risk of a beetle or some other varmint looking for a new home.
The gear oil should be flushed with kerosene, IMO, esp if you are changing lubricants (from OE to Mobil1, or M1 to LE607). The gear oils have tenancious additives, and it is best to start fresh - pump in some light oil (10w) or kerosene and let it drip out completely.
Did you see the posts on the 90w LE607 diff oil? Might consider that next time. It is very hard to pump unless you heat it up. I generally agree about not letting the old fills drain forever, even overnight - it is uneccessary, and there is always the risk of a beetle or some other varmint looking for a new home.
The gear oil should be flushed with kerosene, IMO, esp if you are changing lubricants (from OE to Mobil1, or M1 to LE607). The gear oils have tenancious additives, and it is best to start fresh - pump in some light oil (10w) or kerosene and let it drip out completely.
Originally posted by Road Rage
I don't think the use of a bottle with a fill nipple and some hosing on it (with or without duct tape) is ghetto - I think it is smart. Even though I have a hand pump, and Griot's expensive gear oil syring, if one has the room to do the bottle with hose routine, that is the fastest and easier way to do it. I think it only works with the tranny. I actually bought a bottle of Valvoline gear oil (cheap stuff) just to get the bottle - i dumped the gear oil into my recycle jug, and will use it to fill the tranny with MTF when i am ready to change.
Did you see the posts on the 90w LE607 diff oil? Might consider that next time. It is very hard to pump unless you heat it up. I generally agree about not letting the old fills drain forever, even overnight - it is uneccessary, and there is always the risk of a beetle or some other varmint looking for a new home.
The gear oil should be flushed with kerosene, IMO, esp if you are changing lubricants (from OE to Mobil1, or M1 to LE607). The gear oils have tenancious additives, and it is best to start fresh - pump in some light oil (10w) or kerosene and let it drip out completely.
I don't think the use of a bottle with a fill nipple and some hosing on it (with or without duct tape) is ghetto - I think it is smart. Even though I have a hand pump, and Griot's expensive gear oil syring, if one has the room to do the bottle with hose routine, that is the fastest and easier way to do it. I think it only works with the tranny. I actually bought a bottle of Valvoline gear oil (cheap stuff) just to get the bottle - i dumped the gear oil into my recycle jug, and will use it to fill the tranny with MTF when i am ready to change.
Did you see the posts on the 90w LE607 diff oil? Might consider that next time. It is very hard to pump unless you heat it up. I generally agree about not letting the old fills drain forever, even overnight - it is uneccessary, and there is always the risk of a beetle or some other varmint looking for a new home.
The gear oil should be flushed with kerosene, IMO, esp if you are changing lubricants (from OE to Mobil1, or M1 to LE607). The gear oils have tenancious additives, and it is best to start fresh - pump in some light oil (10w) or kerosene and let it drip out completely.
I read your posts about gear oil, and I meant to send you a PM on where I can get this particular oil you recommended and were selling. I figured I'd do that the next time I was ready to do a diff change, as I had already read about people using the Mobil 1 and already purchased it prior to reading your post. So, I still need to know what type of gear oil this is and where I can get it!
I didn't use any kerosene to flush out the old gear oil. I'm sure this is a good thing to do, but I didn't feel the need. But it's a good tip!
Nate
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