Brake fluid what to get
After my track day, I decided to repalce my brake fluid with some good stuff.
But man is there alot to choose from. I need help from those using a race fluid.
What to look for?
Boiling Temp, wet temp, cost whatever.
Plus if there is a link on how to change it I would love to see it.
I read the bottle and it said to use a liter just to flush out the old stuff.
Thanks for any help
aquatic
But man is there alot to choose from. I need help from those using a race fluid.
What to look for?
Boiling Temp, wet temp, cost whatever.
Plus if there is a link on how to change it I would love to see it.
I read the bottle and it said to use a liter just to flush out the old stuff.
Thanks for any help
aquatic
Use Speedbleeders to change your fluid and bleed your brakes. Got to http://www.speedbleeder.com. S2000's use four SB10125. I use ATE SuperBlue brake fluid. I was also told Wilwood is a good brand. Both are Dot 4 compatible but have a higher boiling point. Do not use a Dot 5 fluid in the S2000.
Keith, I use the Motul DOT 4 fluid and it works beautifully. And NSXS is right do not use DOT 5 fluid. I'm sure that any kind of hi temp tolerant DOT 4 racing fluid will work for you. Is your pedal a little like mashed potatos?!
hehe...
Gotta love that!
hehe...
Gotta love that!
Aquatic,
I switched over to ATE Super Blue (~$9/liter) when I installed my Goodrich SS brake lines. I chose the ATE fluid because of its relatively high wet & dry boiling points and its low moisture absorption characteristics (which allows it to remain in the system longer). This fluid, as the name suggests, is blue in color, which makes system flushing easy...as soon as you see blue fluid in your bleeder jar you know that circuit is flushed. To make bleeding the brake system easier, I installed SpeedBleeders in all of the calipers (I think they are 10*1.25, can someone verify...). They are inexpensive, and make brake bleeding ultra-simple (you don't need an assistant)!
koejing
I switched over to ATE Super Blue (~$9/liter) when I installed my Goodrich SS brake lines. I chose the ATE fluid because of its relatively high wet & dry boiling points and its low moisture absorption characteristics (which allows it to remain in the system longer). This fluid, as the name suggests, is blue in color, which makes system flushing easy...as soon as you see blue fluid in your bleeder jar you know that circuit is flushed. To make bleeding the brake system easier, I installed SpeedBleeders in all of the calipers (I think they are 10*1.25, can someone verify...). They are inexpensive, and make brake bleeding ultra-simple (you don't need an assistant)!
koejing
ATE is fine. Wilwood is for race but the wet boiling point and tendency to absorb moisture make it a poor option for the street.
ATE, Motul, and others are great, and Valvoline Synthetic is widely available at low cost.
ATE, Motul, and others are great, and Valvoline Synthetic is widely available at low cost.
I posted instructions on bleeding brakes some time ago on H-A.Net. Here's a copy I saved.
1. If I have the time, I find that raising the car in four jack stands and taking off all four wheels make the job easier. But you could do it wheel per wheel.
2. Open the brake fluid reservoir and make sure it's top with fresh new fluid (Never use old fluid from open cans). Make sure the emergency hand brake is lowered and you have plenty of fluid.
3. You will start with the front, driver side wheel and work your way clockwise, per Honda S2000 service manual.
4. If you installed the speedbleeder (recomended): Install a clear line from the speedbleeder to an old can of brake fluid or container for dispensing fluid later. Tell the person helping you to start pumping the brake pedal as you open the bleed screw. With speedbleeder you can leave it open until clean with no bubble fluid comes out.
5. Close speedbleeder and check for leaks. Do not over tighten the bleed screw (hand tight).
6. Check the reservoir and top again with new fluid. Keep an eye on the fluid level if you pump the pedal a lot (more than 15 times).
7. Go to next wheel and repeat procedure.
If you don't have speedbleede, which I highly recommend, It's a little more complicated. The person inside the car will pump the brakes. While keeping the pedal press down you will open the stock bleed screw to let out the fluid/air. You should then close the bleed screw before the person inside the car lets the pedal go. The way I let the person inside know when to push and let go is by telling him DOWN, to press on the pedal, and UP for letting it go. Never let the pedal go up with the bleed screw open. This is the main reason for air in brake lines and it wont feel firm.
I usually do the whole procedure twice around to make sure their is no air or old fluid.
If you want to go a step further you could go for a spin, engage the ABS, and repeat bleeding again, but this is not necessary.
1. If I have the time, I find that raising the car in four jack stands and taking off all four wheels make the job easier. But you could do it wheel per wheel.
2. Open the brake fluid reservoir and make sure it's top with fresh new fluid (Never use old fluid from open cans). Make sure the emergency hand brake is lowered and you have plenty of fluid.
3. You will start with the front, driver side wheel and work your way clockwise, per Honda S2000 service manual.
4. If you installed the speedbleeder (recomended): Install a clear line from the speedbleeder to an old can of brake fluid or container for dispensing fluid later. Tell the person helping you to start pumping the brake pedal as you open the bleed screw. With speedbleeder you can leave it open until clean with no bubble fluid comes out.
5. Close speedbleeder and check for leaks. Do not over tighten the bleed screw (hand tight).
6. Check the reservoir and top again with new fluid. Keep an eye on the fluid level if you pump the pedal a lot (more than 15 times).
7. Go to next wheel and repeat procedure.
If you don't have speedbleede, which I highly recommend, It's a little more complicated. The person inside the car will pump the brakes. While keeping the pedal press down you will open the stock bleed screw to let out the fluid/air. You should then close the bleed screw before the person inside the car lets the pedal go. The way I let the person inside know when to push and let go is by telling him DOWN, to press on the pedal, and UP for letting it go. Never let the pedal go up with the bleed screw open. This is the main reason for air in brake lines and it wont feel firm.
I usually do the whole procedure twice around to make sure their is no air or old fluid.
If you want to go a step further you could go for a spin, engage the ABS, and repeat bleeding again, but this is not necessary.
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Excellent, lots of help.
I was already looking at the Motul 600, so I'll probably stay that way. But I'll have to get the speedbleeders.
Wish me luck on doing it myself.
Hey Greg, did you want that video of your race day? I need you address.
I only have one other to send out so far.
aquatic
I was already looking at the Motul 600, so I'll probably stay that way. But I'll have to get the speedbleeders.
Wish me luck on doing it myself.
Hey Greg, did you want that video of your race day? I need you address.
I only have one other to send out so far.
aquatic



