Ok, everything is ready to go but the oil drain back. My ginourmous issue with screwing 1/2 toilet fittings into the cradle of a few thousand dollar motor not withstanding...I don't see this going well. So, per instructions I grabbed a 45/64 drill bit and the tap. Now, a bit that big has to go in a half inch drill, not that any kind of drill would fit in there . If it is to be drilled straight I have to fit about 2 feet of shit between the maybe 5 inces i have between the sub frame and the block.

Choice one, drill it at the 45 degree angle that I might be able to access it at which would make it to where the drain fitting dipped down and then back up....no good there. I haven't seen a turbo set up yet that would allow you to get away with anything more than a gravity fed straight shot without smoking like crazy.

Choice two take the drivers side motor mount loose and remove the passenger one, support the motor and let it rotate slightly over to give the desired angle. However, with entire kit already installed it is unlikely that this would buy me much rotation as the turbo would now be smacking the fender within a few inches.

Maybe it's because I have slept about as much as a meth junkie for the past two weeks...but I don't see it. I have to have this thing knocked out tomorrow in order to make paint and tuning schedules...and the lift is scheduled for something else so I am officially sweating it. Anyone who can enlighten me will receive one cookie via paypal and my undying love.

 

why not just remove the oil pan? (so you can clean out the metal shavings anyways)

Kyle R

 

It doesn't go into the oil pan unfortunately. It goes into the plate above it that is the cradle for the bottom end....and it's not coming off. It ties into everything...motor mounts, tranny, main caps for the crank, timing chain cover, what the oilpan bolts to....yadda yadda. Anywhere you actually put a bung on the pan itself on that side of the motor would be submerged in the oil which won't work. The pan has been off, for the shavings/cleaning. It's just not where you drill or I'd be set.

 

A right angle drill and a uni-bit shoud take care of it. I'd have the pan off to clean out the aluninium that's going to fall in.

 

oh, i didn't know the UR kit ran the oil return line like that. why don't they tap the line in the oil pan like most most kits do? what -AN does the UR return line come with?

Kyle R

 

I ran with the UR kit for almost two years with the return tapped into the oil pan without any problems. Throw that fitting from UR away and get an aluminum AN fitting.

 

thats the best part of the install. Rightangle drill and i had to chop the shank end of the 45/64 drill bit in half! i had to go through 5 drills till i found one that worked, u can also buy a replacement tip of the drill able to hold a 1/2 shank. sry if info is to late.

Fperra what is the filling from UR (not clear on what your talking about) and replaceing it with AN fitting. Just seeing if i need to do that

 

I used a universal bit and a T handle and drilled mine by hand. The Aluminium is pretty soft and drills fairly easily.

 

Order this fitting and tap it into your oil pan right under the turbo center section as high on the oil pan as possible:

http://www.amstreetrod.com/984404ERL.php4

Here is a picture of the fittings I used, and they were tapped into the oil pan:



The two on the left came with the UR kit; the two on the right is what I used.

 

Thanks alot guys. I was beginning to feel like an idiot since no one had brought this issue up before. Since I can actually go through the pan I will use the UR fitting for now on the stock pan. The Mugen pan was going to go on but I'll just wait until I get some nice braided line and AN fitiings later. The turbo won't even be connected until the tuning.