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TEIN Flex Coilovers DIY

Old 11-26-2006, 03:55 PM
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Default TEIN Flex Coilovers DIY

here's the diy we finished for the flex coilovers. we have the the edfc installation here.

You can download the instruction manuals directly from TEIN's website or you can use this direct link:
TEIN Flex manual (PDF)

Here's what comes in the TEIN Flex box:


And stickers! (My gf says, "Dampachi rules!")


Loosen the lugnuts for all the wheels. Then jack the car up on 4 jackstands or a lift. Then take off the wheels and move them out of the way.

We'll install the front coilovers first. Remove the bolt that fastens the brake line to the shock.


Remove the bottom bolt that holds the shock.


Remove the two bolts that hold the upper arm.


Loosen the two top nuts. It helps to have a partner hold the spring/shock assembly so that you don't drop them on the floor.


Put the new coilover in. Screw in the top two nuts. The torque settings for these nuts are 36 ft-lb (49 N-m), but don't torque it until you load the suspension (shown later).


It's helpful to use the car's jack to line up the hole at the bottom of the coilver. Tighten the bolt until it's secure. The torque setting is 47 lb-ft (64 N-m), but we'll torque everything later.


Reattach the top arm assembly and screw in the bolts and nuts until it's hand-tight. The torque settings for the bolts are 75.9 lb-ft (103 N-m). but we'll torque them in the next step.

You need to load the suspension before you can properly torque all the bolts. To do this, you need to jack the bottom of the suspension until the car rises slightly up about 0.5" off the jack stand, where the blue arrow is in the picture. Then torque all the bolts as previously specified.


The coilovers were already set to the standard height, which is about a 1" drop. Once you've torqued all the bolts, make sure you reattach the brake line. Then, repeat everything for the other side.

Next, we do the rear coilovers. You'll need to access the top nuts from the trunk. These next few steps are also necessary for the EDFC, so you may want to leave it open for that too.

Remove the spare tire from the trunk. Take out all the clips that hold the cover in.


Loosen the thing that holds the spare tire in.


Then, remove the spare tire.


Tape back left side of the trunk lining so that you have more room to work.


Remove the bolt for the bottom of the shock. The torque setting is 47 lb-ft (64 N-m).


Remove the top two nuts. The torque settings are 36 lb-ft (49 N-m). On the driver's side, they're located under here.


We found it was easier if you remove the bar. It's got two bolts on each side. Here, you can see it's been removed and gives you better access to the top nuts.


For my driver's side I had to remove the stabilizer link, shown in the yellow.

You need to remove both nuts shown. Remove each nut while holding the joint pin with an allen wrench.

Then you should be able to take out the old spring/shock. Put in the new coilover and hand-tighten the bolts. Then, put the stabilizer link back. Remember to torque everything AFTER you load the suspension.

Repeat for the passenger side. For my car, I didn't have to take out the stabilizer link. Once, I took out the bottom bolt and the top nuts, my old spring/shock came right out.
Old 11-26-2006, 04:32 PM
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Nice DIY write up!

The suspension install on the S2K is pretty straight forward. The only really pain in the ass is this step:


There's no really good vantage point to get those top nuts loose from under the fuel lines.
Old 11-26-2006, 11:16 PM
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thats weird! to get my rear struts out from my ap2, i dont have to unbolt the sway bar link. and the older models u have to.
Old 11-26-2006, 11:39 PM
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i found that its really easy to remove the 2 nuts inside the fuel door and pulling the fuel neck back out of the way, it makes getting to the top strut nuts very easy!
Old 11-27-2006, 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by BlownAP,Nov 27 2006, 12:39 AM
i found that its really easy to remove the 2 nuts inside the fuel door and pulling the fuel neck back out of the way, it makes getting to the top strut nuts very easy!
yup so much easier!
Old 11-27-2006, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by BlownAP,Nov 27 2006, 03:39 AM
i found that its really easy to remove the 2 nuts inside the fuel door and pulling the fuel neck back out of the way, it makes getting to the top strut nuts very easy!
i forgot to mention that we removed the back bar to access those nuts more easily. (just updated the diy with a pic) your idea sounds good too
Old 01-24-2008, 03:31 PM
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great thanks
Old 01-24-2008, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by vbb,Nov 26 2006, 05:32 PM
Nice DIY write up!

The suspension install on the S2K is pretty straight forward. The only really pain in the ass is this step:


There's no really good vantage point to get those top nuts loose from under the fuel lines.

took me quite a while but then i thought about it and used an extension and a swivel socket, and got it out in a minute
Old 01-24-2008, 05:02 PM
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just got back from tire shop got my new re01r put on now its time to work on the car......
Old 01-27-2008, 07:08 PM
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well i got em them all this bad weather has not made wanna finish it up..but tonight i putt he rears..on..i used a swivel with a six inch extension..that made the rears so much easier

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