Well, I have been struggling with oil leaks in the oil feed line and oil filter relocation kit from day one. When I first started the car I got a small leak from the feed line and oil filter adapter. I retightened both and ran fro about 300 miles before I developed another leak. I again tightened the oil filter adapter lines and ran for another few weeks. I was driving tonight and car started hesitating and the next thing I know I see a trail of oil behind the car and smoke rolling out like crazy. I had the car towed home and what do I find the f&*%$# line loose again.

Is anybody having these same issues?

 

did you use teflon tape on the sensor fittings? you need to or it will leak form those areas.

however don't use teflon tape on the oil lines, otherwise that might cause it to leak.

if you didn't use teflon tape on the oil lines, you might want to check the tapered mating surfaces on both ends of the oil lines for debris or deep scratches, anything that would keep the surfaces from sealing tightly.

This is all assuming it's the fittings themselves that are leaking and it's not a punctured line or something. If it's the fittings, there isn't much to it....they need to create a seal, so somehow there is something keeping it from sealing.

 

About to do a turbo build myself... this has me worried. What about some O-rings in the fittings? And shouldn't teflon tape STOP the leaking? And I believe that you aren't supposed to use teflon tape on some sensors because they are self grounding. Now I'm confused...

 

The AN fittings should NOT leak if tightened properly. Thing is they will leak if they are under or over tightened. For everything else, be sure to use high temp thread sealant.



I used this stuff on the fittings instead of teflon tape and it works wonders. Thing is you need to let it cure for 24 hours before driving but from this day I have no oil leaks.

 

sounds like the easy way to drain oil

AN fittings don't require any sealant. Tapered and straight pipe fittings do.

 

[QUOTE=S2krazy2,Sep 25 2008, 09:05 PM] About to do a turbo build myself... this has me worried.

 

Use Rector Seal on the threads. It's a plumbers dope you can purchase at Lowe's or Home Depot. It has worked wonders for me... no leaks since I started using it.

 

I use GM's Teflon sealer it is much better than Permatex, ARP or anybody else

 

to avoid the preloading, all you have to do is fingertighten the lines onto the fittings, then hold the angled part of the fitting in place with a wrench and at the same time tighten the fitting. works for me each time and i've never had a leak.

Also not sure if you readjusted the angles of the fittings, they don't come exactly perfect from the factory. Each kit i have done, required readjustment of the angle on the fittings to fit the adapters straight.

as for the filter, a few of us create a catcher to catch the oil when taking the filter off. i cut up a plastic tupperware container. Just shove it under the filter and no mess when removing the filter...


also, at the oil filter side adapter. the oil lines are a 90 degree fitting and above it, a 45 degree fitting. make sure when these fittings are tightened onto the adapter that they have adequate clearance between each other. It can be a very tight fit. One install resulted in oil leakage right away when i didn't notice the oil fittings were up against each other, not allowing the fittings to create a seal. You have to offset the top fitting a little in order for them to have enough clearance from each other.

 

Chris, well put, the problem is that the tight proximity and need for a 1" wrench makes it very dificult to work with. By locating the filter in another area I believe this would make the job much easier and eliminate most of the issues I have incounterd. I was looking at locating it on the subframe facing the passenger wheel near the front crossmeber, using (2) 90 deg fittings and (2) straight it would be a straight shot. I also have a new pan that I am going to tap it and braze in a new nipple while I am at it.