UPDATE!!!! - August 2nd 2010. I have dynoed it, with 12K mi since the rebuild. I am happy to announce that I reached 206WHP!!! My previous max before the rebuild was 188WHP. This was done on the same dynojet as the first time. I am VERY happy with this result! Engine is mostly stock and no aftermarket ECU, fuel comp, cams or header. Read HERE for current specs/mods I dynoed it with.



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Hey guys, just wanted to share my experience with you, specially if you reside in SoCal and need a engine rebuild on your s2k.

I had my engine fully rebuilt by Pro Street Import in La Mirada and just wanted to say that I'm more than satisfied with the result. I have 10000mi on the new engine and so far its running great.

The problem started at around 127K miles when a knock sensor failed and caused the melting of piston #1 and therefor scorching it's cylinder wall. I have a '01 AP1. Here are the parts we put in:

*Arias High-Comp forged pistons (Compression raised to approx. 11:8)
*Carillo H-Beah rods
*Micropolished and balanced OEM crank
*Replaced cylinder FRM lining
*AEM V2 Cold Air intake
*Titanium retainers
*Valve job
*Replaced oil pump
*Replaced water pump
*Replaced spark plugs
*Replaced timing chain and tensioner
*Replaced alt. belt
*Injectors professionally cleaned

Parts I already had:
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Fidanza 7lb flywheel
ACT HD pressure plate with stage II disc

Broke in using Mineral oil until 8000mi when I switched to fully synthetic of the same weight.

I havent dynoed yet because I wanted to wait until the engine had more than 10K mi. Should be loose and peaking max allowable power (For the current setup) at this point.

All stock dyno was 188HP at the wheels. I will be dynoing again soon and will post the results. I know it wont be much more using stock cams and stock ECU but it should still be interesting.

UPDATE - Here are a few pics of the 'special' original piston:

 

what does "*Replaced cylinder FRM lining" mean? Also, why did you decide to go with titanium retainers???

 

The F20C block has FRM (Fiber Re-inforced Metal) cylinder sleeves. Since the sleeve got scored by the piston that burnt, the entire sleeve had to be replaced. One option was to bore the sleeve and accomodate larger pistons but with FRM that is not a good idea.

I guess the correct statement is "Re-sleeved cylinder block".

Sorry forgot to reply about the retainers. The reason for this is to make way for aftermarket cams and higher RPM operation. Using titanium retainers drops down some 40 grams on average per valve thus less mass thus higher RPM attainable. I'm shooting for a reliable and streetable 10k RPM.

 

I'm very familiar with our engines, so I guess the real question is where did an FRM sleeve come from? Also, if you had to resleeve, why would you go with FRM? Please elaborate...

I understand the purpose of the retainers, but I thought its been established that titanium aren't necessarily the way to go on this motor. Are you having a set of custom cams made for your motor? Would there be any benefit in revving to 10k?

 

I didn't put a FRM sleeve in, just a standard sleeve. Since im using aftermarket pistons FRM is not a must.

The higher an engine can rev, the more room for top-end power it will have.

 

if you are using a "replacement sleeve" then it has to be FRM, pistons for FRM cars and their rings are a little different. so unless you are running 3 FRM holes and a single steel i dont follow your post.

 

Basically, the pistons are not for FRM, just regular forged aluminum units. Forget about FRM

Here are some pics of Eugene preparing the engine harness I snapped w/ my cell:

 

Eugene, was he on true life: im a street racer? lol looks familiar

very nice otherwise man!

 

I'd love to get a ride in your car; I'm local.

send me a PM

 

No need to wait until 10k miles... 500 miles should be good enough... Lets see some numbers on the dyno....