Hey, so I happen to have a little bit of cash flow now (Around $5K, maybe up to $8K total by spring next year) and am thinking about finally modding my car some. I am looking to add a little more power but don't want to compromise reliability too much.

So I was looking at putting together either a NA build or a mild FI setup, but can't decide where I want to go. But if I did go NA, I was toying with the following, what do you think? Comments welcome.

Skunk2 Camshafts
Skunk2 Valvesprings
Skunk2 Valves
Skunk2 Retainers
Skunk2 or Science of Speed Throttle Body
CT Engineering Intake
Header (maybe Toda Torqun?)
AEM Version 2 ECU
Inline Pro Build (* OEM sleeve performance build includes Mahle piston set, ACL race bearings, disassemble, hot tank, resurface block, bore and hone FRM sleeves, micropolish crankshaft, gap rings, measure bearing clearance, balance, blueprint, and assembly. $1995(you must provide core shortblock))

So I am thinking all of that would be pushing $6K with install/tuning etc...which is about my limit Will all these parts make a difference that is worth it? And do people think if tuned well this would be reliable?

Thanks!

 

your original plan is horrible from top to bottom for NA... 3k will get you a good conditioned used supercharger and you will be happier. Your post screams "idk what I'm doing save me before I waste my money"

Consider yourself saved.

 

Ok can you elaborate? Skunk2 was able to gain 40 hp and 36lbs of torque with similar upgrades as was shown in the Honda Tuning magazine and on the gotuning website: http://www.gotuning.com/product_info.php?f...products_id=210

I know I could obviously make more with FI but was thinking about keeping it NA as Honda designed it.

 

Sure. The link you posted to the honda tuning table has a couple key things that raises my eyebrows.

1 aem ems was in the first stage. Thats good for 10-15 hp itself from the tune alone on an ap1.

2. Custom header and custom intake. Goodluck getting hold of these custom pieces especially the header that could really influence the results.

3. Custom ported head. goodluck reproducing the gains shown by a custom ported head.

Theres no telling exactly what was done with all these "custom" pieces and this can greatly influence your results. I havent read on here of anyone trying to reproduce those claims with those parts. If you wanna try go ahead I'll be waiting for your build thread and subsequent dyno. I personally only support extreme n/a build threads that either use itb's or stroker. Anything else, to me, is not worth it as I havent seen skunk2 cams on here make good power.

For 3k you can have a clean tidy package in a sc that maintain the n/a power characteristics. If you wanna splurge you can get an ems/kpro and you will be, imo, much happier with the end result. I apologize for being condescending in my first post.

 

I'd start with,

i-VTEC conversion
AEM EMS
Hytech, Toda or J's header
3" test-pipe
3" single exhaust
FIPK intake with AUT plate or a CAI
70mm throttle body

This is my plan before I tear into the motor.

 

it would cost around 3500-4000 to build a really good NA motor, thats not counting your boltons.. good header, intake manifold/itb's, 3inch exhaust, intake, injectors, ecu, etc.

My block has custom mahle pistons, rods, cams, no real head work and crappy boltons, its in the 230 range.

another 1000bux in head work and a good intake manifold would finish it off nicely, to what i believe could be around 260-270hp.

 

You sound like a stubborn person.

You've been here 6 years almost, you should know the answer. Go FI.

 

i agree that the smart way would be to get a used supercharger and run low boost for good power and reliability's sake. Probably more reliable than a souped up NA engine. But people have to admit that NA engines feel so "natural" because of throttle response and smoothness

 

I say get a supercharger from the classifieds. Adding a supercharger will still be reliable since there isn't to much to a supercharger system. So you could do an NA build and still have less than 300hp, or spend the same money, still have a reliable car, and make around the 350whp mark. Then you can also easily upgrade the pully and make more boost if you please.

 

The only thing I worry about is, say your were to track the car...overheating could be an issue if your boosting.

Would an oil cooler solve this? Or is it more extreme?