Hey guys, i have spent a while using the search function to give me a better idea but since not many people stick to the f20c and stroke it etc etc, i thought i'd make a post to clear some things up.

Heres a rundown of my engine.

Supertech valve springs and retainers
CP 13:1 pistons
Carillo H-Beam rods
ACL race main and rod bearings
Skunk2 Stage 2 cams
HD daikin exedy clutch kit
Block resleeved with darton sleeves
head serviced + port and polish
flywheel machined and lightened
arp head studs
AEM ems
RC 550cc injectors
Tomei FPR
OBX ITB's (hope i dont start a flame war LOL, consider me as a tester!)
T1R headers
High flow cat (laws in aus are so crap, $10,000 fine for TP)
Fujitsubo legalis r dual
OEM crank

I'm sure theres more i might have missed but that gives a everyone a rough idea..

Now on to the dyno part. My car made a very disappointing 140rwkw.. My tuner thought i would be happy with 140-150rwkw. Alot of people say that dyno dynamics read a little lower than most dynos, but i still cant justify that a standard s2000 makes 135rwkw and after around $15,000 mine made 5 kw more?

Now, there are a few possibilities. My tuner was trying to persuade me to get a haltec ecu, which sort of makes me feel like he doesn't know how to make decent power on an aem.
Also the tuner telling me that he didnt think i would make more than 150rwkw put a few more thoughts into my head.

Any comments would be very much appreciated guys as i am very disappointed and disheartened with my car.

What sort of power do you guys think i should be making according to my mods rough estimates would give me a better idea as i am new to the tuning scene.

 

post the graph... what does 140kw translate to in hp?

go put it on a dynojet

 

You should contact Chris Barry here, he's also from Australia and very skilled about tuning these engines. Maybe he can help you also with the right ECU and tune.

Some parts are OK, some not. My opinions:

Pistons: contact "Wadzii" here on this Board, he can offer you Mahle pistons that are FRM-friendly designed and with F20C specs. With these you don't have to sleeve the block.
Connecting rods: the Carrillo I-Beam rods are lighter. H-Beam is a bit overdosed.
ACL bearings: good choice.
Skunk2 St-II cams: wouldn't recommend them. I have tried them, no power gain, but heavy valve noises. Also the Chain Tensioner couldn't handle the chain slapping after installing these cams.
ARP Head studs: I didn't see that there's a need for these studs. I use always OEM Honda Bolts.
Injectors: I have read not so good things about the RC injectors. I think you can use the OEM injectors when you raise the Fuel pressure a bit.
OBX ITB's: again ask Chris, because he has already tested them.
Exhaust: good choice.

Additional recommendation: use a new cam chain, change the valve guides (!), use the Honda exhaust valves instead of the Supertech ones when you can't get inconel valves from them (Intake valves from Supertech are OK). Install a new Chain tensioner. Use only NGK spark plugs.

 

When I get the Dyno chart I will post it up.

As for all the parts I have thrown enough money on this build and although I can see where you're coming from I just can't justify spending another 5-7k. Hopefully chris Barry is in Sydney, I will contact him and see what we can do.

Thanks for the replies guys

 

did you get the car dyno'd first because that would be the best indication of improvement, My car dyno'd @148kw on a dynodynamics dyno so any mods I do I compare to the stock figure but wouldnt assume my car is faster than anybody getting a lower reading on a different dyno.

 

Well I never got a chance to Dyno the engine before because my compression was way too low and I was burning 1L per 1000k hence the rebuild came along. But a friend of mine dyno'd 135 kw. I know every engine is different but that was a slight indication.

 

Once upon a time I had a similar setup to yours, except no itbs.

Your problem is the exhaust is too restrictive.i got gains going from oem to 63mm.then further gains 63->70mm.then I went 70->3in and got even more gains.

That fujitsubo is only 60mm?
get a new 3in custom exhaust made,get a better tuner,retune it on e85 from the pump at united rozelle in sydney.

If it doesn't make more power, then I reckon they have done a crap head port.
I'm guessing you will make about 160rwkw with the above

 

http://www.americanmachinist.com/Calculato...orseToKilo.aspx

^ that site has a calculator to translate kw-hp

140kw=187.7hp

 

Looks like I'm getting rid of the cams going back to stock. The obx itb has gotta go and finally I have decided to ditch Na and go supercharger on around 5-7 psi on e85 what are you're honest opinions guys? Will I need a thicker head gasket to run that sort of psi?

 

If you are going NA you should consider reducing the compression. Your 13:1 should have enough meat on the top to allow machining to reduce the compression. Even with E85 FI with with 13:1 compression is going to be pushing the upper envelope.