A Few things reguarding changing the tranny Oil
Let me first begin by apologizing if any of this has been brought up or spoken of in the past, but I did a search and came up blank.
Does anyone know the correct type of GM synchromesh lube to get for the S2K tranny? part number of any sort?
Also where can it be purchased at?
Will any auto parts store have a pump to inject the fluid?
Is there a filter that needs to be replaced internally?
What is the fill point?
Thank You for anyone who can help me out.
Dominic
Does anyone know the correct type of GM synchromesh lube to get for the S2K tranny? part number of any sort?
Also where can it be purchased at?
Will any auto parts store have a pump to inject the fluid?
Is there a filter that needs to be replaced internally?
What is the fill point?
Thank You for anyone who can help me out.
Dominic
1. part # is 12345349 Fluid-Tra 8.800 (This is what it says on my receipt)
2. Can be purchased at GM dealers
3. I went to Autozone and O'really and they didn't have hand pump.
4. No filters are needed but you might need new washers(to avoid leakage)
5. fill point? You mean the fill hole? This is the hole where you dump the new tranny oil
2. Can be purchased at GM dealers
3. I went to Autozone and O'really and they didn't have hand pump.
4. No filters are needed but you might need new washers(to avoid leakage)
5. fill point? You mean the fill hole? This is the hole where you dump the new tranny oil
Sorry reguarding the term "Fill Point", what I mean't was how much to put in reguarding how many quarts I should buy. Also if there is any idication when I have put enough in. That being it pouring out or just above the bottom of the fill hole.
It will take close to 2 qts, but you should probably have 3 qts, in case you spill something. You should get BOTH replacement crush washers (Fill Bolt & Drain Bolt) from a Honda dealer. You drain the oil normally, then pump the oil in through the fill bolt (right above the drain bolt) until it starts spilling back out. The car needs to be completely level, or you will wind up with too much or too little oil.
You don't have to measure how much fluid you put in. After draining, just fill it back up while it's jacked up on the left front. Just keep filling (I used almost two quarts doing this) until it starts to run out. Let the car down and let the rest drain out. When it's finished draining, you're done. Jack it back up and put the fill bolt back on (with a new washer). The correct 'fill point' is level with the fill hole (i.e., nothing is spilling out when it's on level ground). I think it was 1.6qts? Just read the manual (RTFM) in the section on 'Capacities', which I think is page 194 off the top of my head. Use a 17mm socket for the fill bolt and just a 3/4" socket wrench for the drain bolt. I don't recall any torque settings in the manual for either bolt, it just says 'tighten securely'.
The bolts should be tightened to the proper torque setting. If you under-torque it, the crush washer won't "crush" enough to make a good seal, and if you over-torque it, the crush washer will crack. The torque settings are in the Helm's manual.
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Originally posted by gernby
Tranny FILL plug (upper): 44 N-m / 33 ft-lbs
Tranny DRAIN plug (lower): 39 N-m / 29 ft-lbs
Diff FILL plug (upper): 45 N-m / 33 ft-lbs
Diff DRAIN plug (lower): 45 N-m / 33 ft-lbs
Tranny FILL plug (upper): 44 N-m / 33 ft-lbs
Tranny DRAIN plug (lower): 39 N-m / 29 ft-lbs
Diff FILL plug (upper): 45 N-m / 33 ft-lbs
Diff DRAIN plug (lower): 45 N-m / 33 ft-lbs
Originally posted by gernby
Tranny FILL plug (upper): 44 N-m / 33 ft-lbs
Tranny DRAIN plug (lower): 39 N-m / 29 ft-lbs
Tranny FILL plug (upper): 44 N-m / 33 ft-lbs
Tranny DRAIN plug (lower): 39 N-m / 29 ft-lbs
Most use the german spec, "guttentight". Much easier to accomplish if you have a decent long handled, fine spline ratchet wrench that you have used for years and have a feel for...
By the same token, crush washers can usually be reused at least a few times with zero leakage.




