Just sold my RX7 looking into a s2k
Hello just joined to get some input from actual S2K owners.My name is Jon and I just sold my RX7 after 6 years and 130,000 miles. She lasted a long time for a rotory and still runs great but I need something that gets better than 12-16 MPG and is still fun to drive. So I am looking for info from owners that have stock and close to stock S2K's. What i am looking for is avrage MPG with what type of driving you do. Cost of maintence you have done over the past few years and things that have gone wrong. I really do not care about cost of labor since i am an ASE mechanic (for ford). Also i am looking for any other input from all of the owners on here.
Thanks
Thanks
Before I got gears, I was averaging 24 city / 31 hwy. And I drive pretty spiritedly...multiple trips into VTEC per day.
Other than a "fragile" diff, the car is pretty bullet proof. Common issues are timing chain tensioner ($130 + 15min); rear hub nuts that need torquing to 220ft-lb occasionally; valve adjustments at 30k intervals for best performance; top wear ($1k for OEM, $600 aftermarket); many have had misfire issues after 60k miles caused by injectors ($400) or coil packs ($400) or plugs (use only OEM; $40); and valve retainer cracks on the AP1 (MY00-03).
The last one has been more common on higher mileage cars, but they can be swapped with thicker AP2 retainers which have not seen cracking issues.
Watch for cars that have been mechanically over revved...that accelerates retainer cracking if it doesn't blow the motor.
MY00-02 cars have a 2 jet banjo bolt for squirting oil on the cyl walls and crank. Later cars have an improved 4 jet design. The 2 jet bolts were recalled in Europe but not in the US. #4 cyl scoring and bearing failures were common on MY00-02 cars running at high rpm for long periods (7000rpm plus). Midway in MY02 production Honda switched to 4 jet.
Other than a "fragile" diff, the car is pretty bullet proof. Common issues are timing chain tensioner ($130 + 15min); rear hub nuts that need torquing to 220ft-lb occasionally; valve adjustments at 30k intervals for best performance; top wear ($1k for OEM, $600 aftermarket); many have had misfire issues after 60k miles caused by injectors ($400) or coil packs ($400) or plugs (use only OEM; $40); and valve retainer cracks on the AP1 (MY00-03).
The last one has been more common on higher mileage cars, but they can be swapped with thicker AP2 retainers which have not seen cracking issues.
Watch for cars that have been mechanically over revved...that accelerates retainer cracking if it doesn't blow the motor.
MY00-02 cars have a 2 jet banjo bolt for squirting oil on the cyl walls and crank. Later cars have an improved 4 jet design. The 2 jet bolts were recalled in Europe but not in the US. #4 cyl scoring and bearing failures were common on MY00-02 cars running at high rpm for long periods (7000rpm plus). Midway in MY02 production Honda switched to 4 jet.
Welcome Jon. The S2K wil be way better than the 12-16 mpg you are getting now. I'm getting around 23-27 (stock) depending upon how hard I drive it. I have had zero issues since new. I've replaced the tires once ($940) and just now going to do a complete fluid change, before putting it away for winter. Good luck with your research (and upcoming purchase?)
Thanks for the quick reply and the great infromation. I will be sticking to the AP2 body code since it seems honda worked out most of the kinks. I am not going to be buying one till the spring time since most dealerships and private sellers dont have what i want and i am deploying soon again to iraq. For now i guess i will be just hanging around reading more on here. Also if anyone in the philadelphia area has a 2006 or newer with less than 30k miles let me know.
Thanks
Thanks
Originally Posted by jonlax,Oct 4 2008, 06:49 AM
What i am looking for is avrage MPG with what type of driving you do.
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