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ive got this vibration in 2nd at higher RPMS’s like 7-8RPMS & 3rd,4th,5th gear at 3-4,500RPM
noticed a bad front lower control arm bushing, replaced the whole arm , did new front brakes (rotors,pads) , axle spacers just put in as well (car is lowered). I’ve tried different wheels as well on the car to see maybe if I had bent but still same thing with different wheels.
maybe I just need new axles¿ Any info/advice is
appreciated, Thank you!
I had vibrations occurring in my 2004 S2000 as well. In my case, the axle nuts were loose causing driveline vibrations to occur when accelerating. This was a relatively cheap fix which involved replacing the axle nuts and torquing them to the proper spec. I'm not saying that this is your issue, but it's worth looking into.
I had vibrations occurring in my 2004 S2000 as well. In my case, the axle nuts were loose causing driveline vibrations to occur when accelerating. This was a relatively cheap fix which involved replacing the axle nuts and torquing them to the proper spec. I'm not saying that this is your issue, but it's worth looking into.
If it is pitted CV's, it will generally only show up under load (acceleration) and between about 40mph and 70mph. If just cruising/coasting at those speeds it may not be noticeable at all, but will come in very noticeably when you accelerate. You did mention you used axle spacers, which is one fix for it, but if a previous owner pitted them in the past at a different ride height it is possible that you have inadvertently put them back in the position to make it show back up. If it does indeed show up only under accleration, it is not hard to check. You can pop the lower balljoint on each side, remove the bolts holding the CV to the diff, and pull it out far enough to remove the cup, clean out the grease and look for pitting. That avoids having to remove the axle nut and the axle completely and a lot of people swap the buckets this way.
Once out of the car, you can see how and why the pitting does this. If you hold the cup in the position that it is on the car, and imagine the 3 bearings pushing on the faces that would rotate it forward, you will see the area that the pitting would occur. If it can be felt while driving, you will see the pitting once you have it cleaned out.
If it is pitted CV's, it will generally only show up under load (acceleration) and between about 40mph and 70mph. If just cruising/coasting at those speeds it may not be noticeable at all, but will come in very noticeably when you accelerate. You did mention you used axle spacers, which is one fix for it, but if a previous owner pitted them in the past at a different ride height it is possible that you have inadvertently put them back in the position to make it show back up. If it does indeed show up only under accleration, it is not hard to check. You can pop the lower balljoint on each side, remove the bolts holding the CV to the diff, and pull it out far enough to remove the cup, clean out the grease and look for pitting. That avoids having to remove the axle nut and the axle completely and a lot of people swap the buckets this way.
Once out of the car, you can see how and why the pitting does this. If you hold the cup in the position that it is on the car, and imagine the 3 bearings pushing on the faces that would rotate it forward, you will see the area that the pitting would occur. If it can be felt while driving, you will see the pitting once you have it cleaned out.
thank you, I get what your saying! I bought the car and it was sitting for 4 years lowered in a garage, never had axles spacers or anything so
i assume its pitted pretty bad so I’ll just replace the axles fully. Thank you for the response man!!
thank you, I get what your saying! I bought the car and it was sitting for 4 years lowered in a garage, never had axles spacers or anything so
i assume its pitted pretty bad so I’ll just replace the axles fully. Thank you for the response man!!
I thought I needed new axles as well. When Zero Auto Factory was installing my new engine/differential mounts, Alan informed me that my axle nuts were very loose and suggested replacing them with new ones. He torqued them to the correct spec and I haven't had driveline vibrations since. All I'm saying is, start with the cheapest solution and work your way up because new axles are not cheap.
Hi again, i replaced both rear axles now, and i am still getting a vibration/shaking. To me it feels like it coming from the front right i checked to see for sticking caliper but both side are evenly hot after a drive.
the vibration/shaking usually is in 2nd gear high rpms like 6-8 and then in 3-4th gear around 3-4K RPM
Any ideas on what this could be? all help is appreciated thank you.
In those gears, at those RPMs, you're doing 60+ mph which leads me to think it's a balancing issue. Since you've tried different wheels with no effects on the vibration and assuming both wheel sets were properly balanced, the next most likely culprit are the wheel bearings. Any droning or whining occurring at all?
You can check for play and see if there is any excessive movement around the hub. Lift up the car and wiggle the wheels around with your hand at the 3 and 9 o'clock position as well as at the 12 and 6 o'clock position. The wheel itself should not move.
You could also try having someone spin the wheel while you listen with a stethoscope around the hub for weird noises but since you're encountering vibration at high speeds only, you may not hear anything.
Unfortunately, the wheel bearings/hub in the S are not easily removed/taken apart for inspection so this is about the extent of diagnosis before replacement.
Vibration problem :(
