I will be installing a Koyo radiator, and thought that this might be the right time to go ahead and do the Mugen cooling mods (thermostat and fan switch) since the radiator fluid will need to be emptied anyways. Any reasons why I shouldn't go ahead and do the mods now?

 

nope! BTW, aren't you running an AEM EMS now? If so, you can skip the fan switch and just configure the output in your ems to kick the fan on when you want it to.

I just flushed my entire system. Added a spoon t-stat, and redline water wetter to the mixture. Sitting still in 90 degree ambient, with the A/C on for 30 mins, my coolant temps sit at 191 F. About a 15 degree drop to my testing prior to the flush.

 

No, I don't have the AEM EMS anymore. I am back to the Hondata ECU reflash and will be going with something else here shortly. Any particuliar reason you choose Spoon over Mugen? Also, what is this Redline water wetter? Never heard of it.

 

I have all the Mugen cooling mods (cap, fan switch, and tstat). They made quite a difference, and yes, since you are installing a Koyo, you might as well put these in while you are at it and save yourself the trouble later.

I've also got a Hondata IMG, but you have that already, so basically you should be done after the koyo. I'll also be picking up a koyo in the next month or so...track days in phoenix are very hard on the cooling system.

 

Nice!

Did you know that you cannot use the Mugen/Spoon/J's Racing radiator cap with the Koyo radiator? I ended up getting a Blitz radiator cap. Looks nice. Operates at 1.3, just like the other guys.

Since it gets so hot in Phoenix, do you turn the temp gauge up some?

 

No, acutally I didn't know about not being able to use Mugen cap...thanks, good to know. And with the EMS the "stock" temp guage doesn't work, as you know. So I have the modifry fix for that and I'll get up to 5 bars and a CEL coming in and out and will get steady over time durring a 20min HPDE event at about 90 degrees outside. At about 80, with the heater running full blast I'll typically stick to 4 bars for most of the session, bumping up into 5 occasionally.

4 bars = 205
5 bars = 220
6 bars = 235
CEL = 220

So basically the car isn't getting THAT hot...I mean I've NEVER seen 6 bars, and 6 bars on my guage would be 4 bars when using the stock ECU (obviously I'm talking AP1) but anyway, I'd feel more comfortable not having to run my heater at all and being able to stay in 20min in 90 degree temps without an issue...so Koyo here I come.

I'm also out braking the stock pads now too. In one weekend I went from BRAND NEW rear pads to COMPLETELY GONE rear pads.

 

My choice to go Spoon was simply based on personal preference. I like spoon stuff

 

I need to get one of those. It bugs the crap out of me that I can't see what my coolant temps are at.

 

Most companies come with two types of radiator caps (ex. spoon). OEM style radiator caps do not fit the koyo, but the other type should fit.

 

Redline's water wetter is added to coolant to increase heat transfer in and out of the coolant. It works by reducing the surface tension of the water. This allows the water to be exposed to more surface area in the engine and radiator.