Slam second = bad
ok, got it.

It happens between 4,500 - 6,500 rpms when the car has been driven for a while.
If shifting at low rps would be fine and if redlining it would be fine.
I would floor the clutch, wait a second, put in second, wait a second, release clutch.

That used to keep it from happening but now even doing that will get a grind. I feel like I'm abusing the car and everyone is staring at me pointing like "omg what is she going to that beutiful car".

 

haha i feel the same way. i think its jsut a matter of knowing when to do it and how fast to do it. it'll eventually become 2nd nature to you. i'm almost there. when i mis time it tho i feel like a noob lol

 

Go ahead and get yourself two quarts of the GM Syncromesh. Your local GM dealer probably has it in stock. It is VERY easy to change and makes a world of difference. My AP2 had similar issues and a fluid change straitened her right out... The fluid swap also stopped the "popping out of gear" issue that is common to AP2's.

 

damn maybe i should do the same. anyone wanna buy soem oem honda tranny fluid? lol

 

Um... No.

The only challenge with the fluid swap is getting the new stuff back in. There really is no room from underneath the car to pour it in. You need to use some sort of pressure method.

I have a cap with a hose attached to it that I purchased from AutoZone that works like a champ. All I do is put the cap/hose on the quart bottle and squeeze the snot out of it. The only challenge is making sure the hose stays in the filler port on the tranny while the pressure is applied to said bottle.

Incidentally, the same setup works well for the diff fluid, too. Different cap with hose, though. NEVER mix the fluids... Even a little bit...

 

me and my buddies use a handheld pump. works great but 9 times out of 10 were under the car with very little room. i hate it. laying on your stomach witht eh hose that goes behind your head to the tranny. its the only way u can pump it hahah.

 

There is no "gas cap" code... the code has to do with one of the emissions items, but the gas cap being improperly sealed will cause that same code. The dealership tech was wise to ask you about the cap, but it isn't the sole cause, so if you're still throwing the same code you need to get it checked out. Yes, the gas cap can go bad.

AutoZone will pull your codes for free (I've seen some dealerships charge as high as $80... for two pulls at that cost you could own your own reader!), you just have to wait around for one of the correct salespeople to be free (not all know how to use the reader). the connector is in the passenger-side footwell.

GM Synchromesh is a great replacement fluid for the gearboxes... remind me and I'll get you the correct part # as not all of their Synchromesh fluids are compatible with our boxes. I run it in mine and I love it (time to replace, come to think of it). 2nd gear started to grind a bit for me, but that mostly disappeared when I put in the Synchromesh... no more grinding, but there is still an annoying notchiness to it at times.

Mobil 1 is typically the preferred engine oil around here, 10W-30 with the green top. They have a new Extended Life that comes in a gold top... I just pick up whichever is on the shelf. Wal-Mart usually has a decent deal on a 5-quart jug, around the $22 range. For the filter, I'm usually at the mercy of what's available on the shelf. I've used Fram in a pinch, but I prefer the Mobil filters... they have a high-filtration version that I try to pick up when it's in stock.

Depending upon the age of the car, you may also want to consider a clutch fluid flush. When I lived in Boston, a number of us noticed the stock fluid was black with particulate matter in it after the first year. I also suggest a brake fluid flush every other year as it's hygroscopic and collects water in a short period of time, making the pedal more spongy.

I spend most of my time in Columbia these days, so you're welcome to drop by and discuss any of this in person... I can show you how to change any of the above fluids (and some suggestions on making it permanently easier after a part swap or two).

 

For fluids (diff, tranny, engine oil) I'd only use Amsoil. It's just a personal preference, but from all the oil test results I've seen it seems to be the best.

 

I just swapped out my old mtf with the new Honda MTF and it feels much smoother which is suprising since my old mtf was only 16 months/34K old.

 

I got the gas cap code a few times, just bought a new cap, fixed it for about $ 20.00 not $ 1200.00 thats just robbery.

I have a code reader if any needs a code pulled, I got another code related to a sensor, I did a search on S2ki and found a post by Billman250, he mentioned cleaning 2 sensors with WD40, that fixed that one.

The GM sycromesh does work very well, make sure you get the right stuff, Hardtop guys sells it I think.