Mid-Atlantic S2000 Owners Members from Maryland, DC and Virginia

Installed new coilovers

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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 11:52 AM
  #1  
eepr5's Avatar
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From: Pax River MD
Default Installed new coilovers

after debating w/ myself for a long time about whether to make the leap, then getting ripped off by a vendor, I finally got my hands on a set of coilovers. I got the Megan Racing Streets w/ 12K springs all around. I originally ordered the track editions through optionimports (right before importtuninggarage started their sale ), and was told after a couple days that they were out of stock of the tracks (and they were a 2 month wait to come in), but would send me the streets w/ 12K springs on, after claiming up n down that the only difference was the springs. After having seen so much conflcting info on these models, I just gave up. And I have to say I'm very happy so far, so who cares if there is a bit of difference

only real complaint: the 4 nuts for the bottom bolts were not included, though there were 2 locknuts loose in the box that were the right size, but identical to the shock shaft nuts on the tophat. After searching around for a while to find the right size nut to use (the honda manual I have says the bolts are M10x1.25 in like 4 places, and M12x1.25 (the right size) once) I managed to get ahold of 4 M12x1.25 nuts and 12mm lockwashers (just in case).

I tried to spend a little extra time in the inital setup so that I could get as close as possible to my desired ride height the first time.

First, I checked that each pair had the same amount of preload (basically ZERO, just enough to keep the spring in place). I measured the distances between the tophat and adjustment nuts and made sure they were equal.

Next, I measured the distance between the top of the brake rotor and the fender on each wheel. I got 7.5" for both fronts, 8.25" for the rears. I probably should have gone for mm instead, but inches was the best I could do with the tools I had.

Once I had removed the original shock, i installed the coilover with only the tophat bolted in place. The bottom I left disconected. I then jacked up the hub until I got it to my previous measured location, and proceeded to adjust the bottom adjustable portion of the coilover to be the right lenght w/the hub in this position. I calculated that w/ 12K springs, there would be about 1inch (~26.5mm really) of spring compression weight on wheels. So, if I backed the adjustment out an inch, i'd get real close to the original ride height. Since I wanted a little lower, I only backed it out about 1/2 an inch. I then copied the measurements to the other shock and installed it.

The rears were a little more fun. The gas filler tube was a real PITA, just as expected. I managed to disconnect it and pull it into the trunk enough to work around it. I kept reading everyones statements that you had to practically have someone stand on teh rear rotors to get the shock out, so I was a little suprised when the rear drivers side came right off. Not so lucky w/the passenger side. It took a bit of experimenting, but I managed to get it off. Didn't have to undo the swaybar either.

My trick w/ setting the length an inch shorter didn't work on the back. Screwed to the shortest setting, it was about 1/2 inch too long to do it that way. So instead, I adjusted until, with the hub at the right location, the center of the lower bushing was 1inch from the center of the mounting hole. Again, I made it about 1/2 inch lower than original.

I didn't have the problems putting the coilovers on that I had getting the originals off. To make putting the nuts on the tophats in the trunk easier, i put in the lower bolt, then slowly jacked the hub up to push the tophat into location. Leaving it jacked up, i was able to leasurely reach into the trunk and put on the nuts without worrying that something was going to move.

I then went to each corner, jacked up the hub until the body JUST lifted off the jackstand, and torqed everything down. Put the wheels back on, got it off the stands, and I was done

Went out today, set the dampers to 20 (32 is full soft) and went cruising. No clunks, bumps, or bangs. Ride was very good, lot less bounce, not too rough (though we'll see w/ it set stiffer). Noticed less body roll i think.


before pics (w/ tein s-techs)





rear teins before removal


during install. Fronts are new, rear is old. notice the dramatic change in droop


some closeups of the front



adjustment knobs


last night, was a bit dark when I finished


better pics from this morning

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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 01:02 PM
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nice drop!
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 01:08 PM
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Nice drop, looks pretty much like mine. I got the track edition, btw the springs on the street and the track are both 12kg. The difference is in the dampening.
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 01:14 PM
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looks good. thats alot of pictures
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 06:20 PM
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how much did it cost you?
A
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 06:25 PM
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Good pictures.
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Old Aug 14, 2006 | 03:18 AM
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how much did it cost you?
$900 for the coilovers, ~$3 for nuts & lockwashers, $15 for a second set of jackstands, a few choice words, a few sore muscles, and several bugbites.

the springs on the street and the track are both 12kg. The difference is in the dampening.
yeah, i pretty much knew that. But I've seen some things that say 8k/6k, and some that say 14k/12k.
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Old Aug 14, 2006 | 04:23 AM
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very nice...
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