I did a few pulls at Doug's Dyno today. He was a great guy and did more than the 3 pulls I paid for, as he wanted to help me by doing some experimenting after we saw the first pull results.

The car : 2000 S2k
the mod : comptech supercharger, non aftercooled, no other mods

*Realize that this is on a Mustang dyno...otherwise known as the heartbreaker dyno, as it reads extremely low :

The HP : 243HP@8000rpm - he didn't want to take the car to redline to err on the safe side I think.

The TQ : 161 ft-lb

Pulls were all done in 4th gear.

The experimenting we tried were : removing the intake pipe from the blower, but that made our numbers lower. We thought maybe it would improve, but apparently the comptech intake must do a good job!

Increasing the fuel with the FMU one full turn of the screw : Loss of power. Apparently, the car likes to run leaner(we upped the fuel thinking the car was running lean....showing NA like AFR numbers on the first pull).

3rd gear pull : sucked ass


So there you have it, I'll have charts soon when I get a chance to scan them.



my question for you all is....IS the car running too lean?

AFRs :

Min : 12.3
Max : 14.5
Avg : 13.5

The Max spike came at what looks like 5400 rpm to 5800 RPM, then started to go down a bit as the car was reaching 8000 rpm. You'll see what I mean from my dyno charts. My EGT gauge ended up at around 1400 degrees at the end of these pulls.

I think 240hp seems right on the button, as it is a heartbreaker dyno..a dynapack, or whatever it is called would probably put the car at around 280rwhp in the same conditions, with the same calibration(not really realistic, but you know what I mean)....as I figure the blower was sending in hot air...and I have a restrictive stock exhaust. I think once I get an aftercooler, and perhaps exhaust, the car should read around 260...but I am not HP crazy, and that hardware will have to wait until the funds come....Overall, I am happy with the numbers on the mustang dyno!


Please give me comments etc. I've done a lot of dynoing on a mustang with my other car, so I kinda knew what to expect

 

dyno? max numbers mean nothing if you're only getting 100whp upto 7000rpms, then make double that in a 1000rpms.

you're looking for the most power under the line...

my car made 217whp and 144ft-tq, but it was way peaky (max at like 8300rpms). so, we tuned it down to 197whp@7500rpms and got more power across the powerband.

and this was on a Mustang dyno as well.

and i'd like to see better AFs... possible closer to 11.5-12, but it also depends on how much boost you're running. Go to LDL (if you haven't)... Dennis can help you out a lot.

 

The chart is pretty linear, and before I get this thing scanned, I'll just name a few HPs at diff places :

125HP@5250
190HP@6350
210HP@6900
225HP@7450

This is a non tuned car, with the FMU setting just as it was from Comptech. When he hooked up his cable to the car, it was showing boost ranging from 3-4PSI, not the 5 PSI I hear that comptech specs with their stock belt. What can LDL do for me without putting in management? I hear that the Apexi V-AFC or whatever its called, can help me even out the AF curve as well as lower the VTEC activation point to around 4500 if I like..since I cruise below vtec, that's not a problem with me...

Any more ideas? Realize the less I have to spend the better...but I would like to get the AF cleaned up. I don't drive the car much over 6000 RPM because of the fact that I was going to get the AF checked out, and now I will still granny the car until I get a good AF. I wonder if I install a VAFC and then get the car tuned would be the course to take.

Thanks!

 

well, that's a problem i had... i dynoed my car with a small fuel pump, no fuel management other than an adjustable fuel regulator... and that's it.

my fuel curve made a huge W across the powerband.

And that seems to be a good curve....pretty linear... as long as there's a good portion of the power below the line.

the extra pound of boost won't be much. maybe 10hp....but it may also change the dyno a bit too. First, I'd get a VAFC or something...then go get it tuned.

 

Yeah, my "W" is my AF curve Ok looks like once I can afford the V-AFC, I will get one...looks like they dont make that one anymore and only make the VAFC 2, which allows you more points to adjust the fuel. Man for a person that hates gauges, I'm gonna have a bunch lol!! EGT, Oil pressure(I just feel safe knowing they are safe), and then the VAFC...but I do admit the VAFC does look kinda sexshi

 

uhm.... bail on the VAFC idea. this is one of the worst tuning aparatus' there are. the ecm learns around it, and youll contantly be resetting. im still here, and willing to help. i am way busy. but ill steer you in the right direction. id save for real management. and as of now, get a cat delete. you wont regret it. the cat is the worst part of your exhaust when boosted. anyways. talk soon. dave

 

I told him not to get the VAFC. He doesnt want to spend too much money, so I told him that the E-Manage is the way to go if he doesnt plan on modding further and is on a budget.

Ryan

 

hey Dave, did you ever go get that dyno done....?

 

Yeah I have a pretty good understanding of how restrictive catted turbobacks make a big dent in exhaust, and flow. I've experienced that with my last car, a WRX, which the first thing I did was to remove the cat. The car I have, I got already with a SC in it, and I just want the car to work with it..retune in the future if i get exhaust, but that wont be for at least half a year..so for now, I just want to make the car run as clean as possible given the hardware I have. Emanage seems to be the way to go...I don't need the Ultimate E manage do I? Even if I go catless later on, I figure I still don't need it right?

 

why dont you start by figuring out what is available for your car, then decide what features you need, and the right engine management system for you will be obvious.