Can anyone here roll my rear fenders and do a good job? Will pay or whatever. Thanks for the help. Would like it done soon.

 

same here. tired of my tires wearing uneven..

 

your rub pretty bad too?

Anyone here know how?

 

Contact Will, 03evolution. His friebd rents it out for cheap and im sure somebody can help you do it. Ive never done it or seen it done but it cant be that hard.

 

Hey Ronnie, I did a bit of searching and found a DIY thread on how to roll the fenders.

I felt comfortable after reading the thread to attempt this.

Here is the write up;


I had composed this really long posting with lots of detail and somehow managed to loose it. I could not be bothered todo it all again so I will just do a shorter one this time.


Safety

1. Put the car on Jack stands. You will be rocking the car and last thing you want is for it to
fall from the jack.
2. use gloves. Besides the dirt there is the small risk of getting your finger cought between the
roller wheel and the fender.


Instructions

1. If you follow these you are pretty much there (see steps below for s2000 specific issues)
It will take about 1 1/2 hours for the first fender and 1 hour for the second one. That is, assuming
you never rolled a fender before.

You have to remove the lip protectors (rubber) before rolling and them 'find them a new use' as you won't be able to put them back.

Also, I suggest you clean the interior and exterior of the fender lip. This will remove lots
of dirt which has several effects:
- Save you the unpleasant smell of heated dirt/mud
- Reduce the noise the fender makes when being rolled which translates into
less worries about wheather or not you are cracking the paint.

http://www.fenderroller.com/fender_roller_inst.jpg

2. Use the heat gun on the fender before moving the roller. The heated area should
be hot to the touch (like when the car has been in the sun for a while - you can barely put
your hand on). Gun can be about 3 1/2 inches from the fender.

3. The instructions above assume you only set the adjustment once. This is not true for the
S2000 due to the shape of the fender and the fact that the fender lip is pointing a bit
downwards to start with.

- to get around the shape issue you end up having to divide the fender in three sections. Each
with its own settings on the roller
- to get around the pointing down issue you have to do two passes on each section. The first pass
bends the fender so that it is slightly pointing upwards and the second pass completes the rolling.
You have to change the settings for each pass.

Also, so as to not warp the bumper it is better to unscrew it and separate it from the fender. It only takes two screws and a rag. There are some clip holes on the bumper that hold it in place. The bumper can be pulled away from the car easily but you have to do it slowly and wiggle it a little so that you don't rip the clip holes.



4. You will not be able to roll the bottom of the fender (above where the strakes are) because
the shape of the fender is such that the roller will not reach (the Akewa roller that is) and
because there is a thicker sheetmetal under it. The picture 'tough spot' shows a small protusion where
this thicker sheetmetal starts.

5. The fenders will flare up a tiny bit. You may not be able to notice it but if you look closely at the junction between the fender and the rear bumper (after you put it back) youwill be able to see it.


And now, the results

 

I found this one as well;

These guys did the front fenders as well. If you go this route Ronnie, the fender flares can be removed to aviod melting them with the heat gun like the guys did with there job.



Cale, Bill, Mani and I ended up rolling our fenders today. We used an Eastwood fender roller, a heat gun and a hammer to get the job done. Originally, it was just going to be me and Cale, then Mani and Bill joined us, so it turned into a mini-mod day.

Here are some pics of our cars.






I looked at a couple of video clips on youtube to give me an idea of how this works. Here are the links to the clips. I couldn't really find any DIY on the s2ki forum.

Using an Eastwood fender roller.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=W_IWvZFb-TU

This is the baseball bat method. Fast forward to around the 5:30 mark.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDTK9IjKIYU&NR=1

Here's the setup for the fender roller.



(Note that the finished job looks much better in person than how they look in these pics.)

There are four plastic clips and two metal screws on the outside edge that hold the fender liner in place. The plan was to put the fender liner on top of the fender lip and then roll it. The fender lip will then hold the fender liner in place.

I unclipped the four plastic clips and made a small cut on the fender liner right above the fourth plastic clip. This way, I can keep the lower fender liner in its stock location. The tires wouldn't rub that low anyway.

I then used a heat gun to heat the paint to prevent it from cracking (Use enough heat and often to make sure the paint doesn't crack). Work one section at a time, and in case I didn't say it before, keep heating the paint over and over. I ended up cracking the paint in two small spots since I didn't keep heating the paint during the rolling process. Leasson learned. I used touch up paint to fill the small cracks and that seemed to work. I'll see how that holds up long term.

I first rolled the three metal tabs first, one at a time. Make sure you use enough heat! The I worked one section at a time to roll the fender lip slowly. I think if you roll a small section at a time a little angle at a time, and by regularly applying heat, you'll lessen the changes of cracking the paint. Here are some pics of the process.

Here are the "before" shots.









Here's Mani in action.





Here are some "after" shots.





You'll notice that the plastic liner melted a bit in some spots.







Mani made a hole in one spot from too much heat.



Here's a shot of Mani's fender. Mani went a bit aggressive with rolling the very front mental clip and ended up not just rolling, but pulling the fender out a bit. I think he was happy with the results though since he proceeded to roll the other front just as aggressively and ended up pulling the front parts of the fender out a little. He said he did that to balance the aerodynamic effects on both sides. You can't really notice the wavy part unless you look at the fender in person and up close.



In the end, I think we were all happy with the results. Cale and Bill didn't roll their rears. I did a bit (just in case I run 275's in the rear in the distant future) and Mani did a lot (he has low offset wheels).

Anyway, I hope this helps anyone who's thinking about rolling their fenders.

 

Here is a link from a BMW thread.

http://www.bmwdiy.info/fender-rolling/

 

Would you attempt to do this on my car? Would you feel good doing it? Cause I don't. Let me know brother.

 

My plan is to paint my car this week. I have to get that done before I get involved with another project.

Now in another post mentioned, I have done this before and the results were great. I did it to a 79 Prelude and a 70 El Camino. I do feel comfortable doing a fender roll since I have done them before, though I used a hack saw, bat, and baseball bat as the roller.

I would rather use the fender roller and a heat gun. To me from reading those threads this would be a lot easier. If someone still has the fender roller available for use and a heat gun we can plan something out.

 

A little off the topic of fender rolling...but more about what's causing the need to roll your fenders...

What tire sizes are you running? If I remember correctly, you're using stock AP2 wheels...so I'm guessing 225s in the front and 255s in the rear, which means you're rubbing in the front.

Have you maxed out your front negative camber? Have you considered the SPC upper ball joints or J's Racing lower camber joints? With the J's S2s on my car, I gained a decent amount of clearance with 255s on +63 17x9s on the front.

Before the camber joints, I had minor rubbing with 255s, a 0.75" drop and 1.6 degrees of negative camber. A slight roll would have taken care of all of the rubbing. With 225s, the rubbing would have been even less of an issue.

Here are a few pics of the clearance after the J's camber joint install, which put my front camber at -4.0 degrees at a 0.75" drop. I'm planning to back it off to about -3.2 negative in the front.

Excuse the brake dust and dirt. My car is filthy.

225/50/16 on stock AP1 rear wheel (+65 16x7.5) -


225 and AP1 rear, again -


255/40/17 on 17x9 -