Golf Clubs
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 19,734
Likes: 247
You can't get them now but I bought a set of forged Tommy Armour 845 CM clubs. They are cavityback for the 3-6 irons and muscleback (thick blades) for the 7-PW irons, so they're decent for distance on the long irons but better for shaping shots with the low irons. Forged construction means less weight, better uniformity, and a stronger club in general. Steel rifled shafts with stiff flex as well.
I paid $210 shipped to my door off Ebay. Retail was more than double that...
Most of the Tommy Armour clubs now are cast but they're a decent starter set and readily available for $150 on Ebay.
I paid $210 shipped to my door off Ebay. Retail was more than double that...
Most of the Tommy Armour clubs now are cast but they're a decent starter set and readily available for $150 on Ebay.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
From: Springfield, OH
Originally Posted by AZDelt,May 27 2007, 09:22 PM
For now avoid Titleist, they pride themselves on making golf clubs for better players. Even their largest, most oversized "game improvement" clubs don't offer the same amount of forgiveness that other companies do.
I second ebay. I've been in the golf business for about 10 years, but only been available for PUD for the last 4(personal use discount, means club companies charge half of the cost they normally charge the club with the thought that members will ask what I'm playing and buy the same), and until then I usually picked things up from ebay. You can find an amazing set of clubs that 12 months ago Taylormade or Callway claimed were the best on the planet, and you can get them for pennies on the dollar.
I'm assuming you are a fairly young guy, stay away from graphite in the irons. What you lose in accuracy isn't worth what you'll gain in distance; at least in the irons. Pick up a driver with a graphite shaft, fairway woods either graphite or steel; your preference. I'm a big fan of hybrids, much easier to hit than long irons.
Ultimately, look around and see what you like to look at. It sounds stupid, but after more than a decade of teaching and answering questions similar to these, it is very important for you to have confidence in your sticks. I know guys that can't hit anything with offset or a thick topline, I know others that won't look at anything without 7 mm of offset (FYI, that's a lot). To each his own, figure out what you like to look at and go from there.
If you want any specific suggestions get a little more specific, mostly what club do you hit from 150 yards, typically flight pattern (high or low trajectory, left to right or right to left flight pattern, that kinda thing), I'd be happy to throw a few ideas out there. You can't go too wrong these days, most of the major club companies have really stepped it up. 3 years ago Adams was a joke in the golf business, now they're legitimate. They aren't the only ones who have had a similar rebirth.
I second ebay. I've been in the golf business for about 10 years, but only been available for PUD for the last 4(personal use discount, means club companies charge half of the cost they normally charge the club with the thought that members will ask what I'm playing and buy the same), and until then I usually picked things up from ebay. You can find an amazing set of clubs that 12 months ago Taylormade or Callway claimed were the best on the planet, and you can get them for pennies on the dollar.
I'm assuming you are a fairly young guy, stay away from graphite in the irons. What you lose in accuracy isn't worth what you'll gain in distance; at least in the irons. Pick up a driver with a graphite shaft, fairway woods either graphite or steel; your preference. I'm a big fan of hybrids, much easier to hit than long irons.
Ultimately, look around and see what you like to look at. It sounds stupid, but after more than a decade of teaching and answering questions similar to these, it is very important for you to have confidence in your sticks. I know guys that can't hit anything with offset or a thick topline, I know others that won't look at anything without 7 mm of offset (FYI, that's a lot). To each his own, figure out what you like to look at and go from there.
If you want any specific suggestions get a little more specific, mostly what club do you hit from 150 yards, typically flight pattern (high or low trajectory, left to right or right to left flight pattern, that kinda thing), I'd be happy to throw a few ideas out there. You can't go too wrong these days, most of the major club companies have really stepped it up. 3 years ago Adams was a joke in the golf business, now they're legitimate. They aren't the only ones who have had a similar rebirth.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,778
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From: Kona, HI
I'm more than happy to. You can't work in golf and not enjoy helping other people around the game, otherwise you burn out too quickly because the job is much more about everyone else playing golf than you playing golf.
If you haven't touched a club in 18 months, and you are serious about picking it up and sticking with it (as much as you can, Ohio weather doesn't lend itself to 12 months of golf like Arizona does) here's a few specific suggestions.
Ping I-3 iron's. You can go O-Size or Blade, because the blade isn't really a blade. A real blade club has no cavity in the back, the cavity spreads the weight around and improves forgiveness. Best analogy I've ever heard is like comparing a tennis raquet to a 2x4. If you hit the 2x4 on the absolute perfect spot, I'm sure it'll feel great and its distance will be great. Everywhere else sucks out loud when it comes to feel and as far as distance goes, it'll suck even more. If you hit with a tennis raquet though, the very center will be the best, but a little off center is almost indistinguishable worse, and way off center is still pretty good.
Better players are the only people who should even think about blades, and more and more are actually getting away from them due to improvements in cavity backs. Try to find a set of I3's you can look down on, the O-size aren't a whole lot bigger, but they do have a bit more offset to them. I'd probably recomend the O-size over the blade, but you won't go wrong either way. Try to find them in black dot (that's the standard lie angle (proper lie angle is what ensures the sole of the club is parallel to the ground at impact) and you can send them to Ping to have them bent, I say start with standard because you could be upright or you could be flat, its best to start in the middle so you could go either way).
Here's a good example (not my auction, don't know the guy, just fits the bill)
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ping-i3-O-Size-3-w-JZ-...1QQcmdZViewItem
Now to driver, I'd stick with Cleveland. I've personally had a few version of the Launcher and I think its one of the best feeling, most forgiving, and non-offensive looking clubs on the market, (currently playing a Taylormade 425 TP, but its got a list price of $800 so I wouldn't suggest it for someone not that into the game or actually paying for their own clubs) I'm a big advocate of the newer technology.
I've seen the advancements that everyone has made since Taylormade through the old rules out (little known fact, ~5 years ago Taylormade did away with their old school design team, a bunch of guys that have been around golf for years and knew how to make traditional clubs. They were replaced by a large group of displaced Russian Space Scientists who knew nothing of the game, but they knew physics, and they were given the parameters a club fall under to be legal, gave them a ball, and told them they wanted it to go as long as possible. That's the first time science really came into the game and the proof's in the pudding. That year Taylormade released three different drivers within a series, the 300, the 320, and the 360, all named for their respective size in cubic centimeters. These very non-traditional looking clubs took over the tour which had always kept with tradition. Every other major company soon followed suit. Sorry for the tangent, but true story) and the advancements are legit. Another pro that I work with played a Biggest Big Bertha (club came out 97 or 98) until a few years ago. He felt he hit it long enough and didn't want to waste his time learning to hit a new driver, but eventually was offered a staff deal with Ping and took them up on the offer. Literally over night the guy gained 40 yards. I played with him the day his clubs arrived, but he took the old ones out. I then played with him the next day, when he brought the news ones out. Granted, I'm at 7000 feet so the ball does travel farther, but he started driving it in places he wasn't sniffing before, same course, same tees, same ball, same conditions. Now, not everyone gets those results, but he's been playing competitive golf for more than a decade, his swing is damn near perfect, but he grew up in the game. He was a kid golfing long before Tiger inspired everyone to put a 7 iron in their toddlers hands. But his dad spent a few years on the executive board of the USGA, odds were good he'd take up the game eventually.
Anyway every year companies find ways to push the edge even closer to the limits of C.O.R. (coefficient of restitution, there's a limit to how much a face of a club can flex giving a ball a little more kick, the current limit by the USGA is .83, over in Europe they listen to the Royal & Ancient who's rules are a little different, they can get up to .86) and hit to the ball farther. If you pick up a driver that been made in the last year or two, you're still reaping benefits. Loftwise stay somewhere between 9 and 11 degrees. I'm still assuming your fairly young, so I'd say go with a stiff or firm shaft. While it might not be right for you right away, with a little practice and a hint of athleticism you'll be swinging in the range that's appropriate for you.
Here's a few to think about (again, not my auction, not anyone I know, and I'm not endorsing 'em, just saying this is the kind of club I'd suggest...and have to several friends of mine who have asked the exact same question)
http://cgi.ebay.com/Cleveland-Launcher-460...1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Cleveland-Golf-Launche...1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/NICE-2006-Cleveland-La...1QQcmdZViewItem
Any of those would fit the bill.
Fairway woods, Callaway steel head III, no question. I've never seen a club have such a rabid fanatical following even years after its release. My course hosted the US Mid-Am last year and I spent a fair amount of time with the players. Even though Taylormade had a rep on site GIVING away free clubs, most stuck with what they brung, and the vast majority brung these. They have a shallow enough face that its easy to hit them off of the fairway, but a deep enough face you can hit them off of the tee or from the rough without concern of popping them up. Steel or graphite is a personal choice here, I've tried both, and I like both. Don't put too much thought into it, flip a coin if need be. I'd go 3 and 5. You could split the difference and just go with a 4 wood, its easier to hit than a 3 and goes longer than a 5, but that's all personal preference (personally I've played strictly a 4 wood for years until recently and there's still times I wish I had kept it in the bag).
Here's a few options:
http://cgi.ebay.com/CALLAWAY-GOLF-CLUB-STE...1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Callaway-Steelhead-III...1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Nice-Callaway-Steelhea...1QQcmdZViewItem
Wedges, its hard to wrong with Cleveland. Roger Cleveland singlehandedly revolutionized wedges (before leaving for Callaway, turns out Callaway now makes some pretty great wedges, didn't see that one coming) but there's a lot of great choices. Taylormade, Ping, Callaway, Cleveland, and Titleist are all top notch, but none of them will offer much forgiveness. Unfortunately, you kind of have to decide what you're looking for in a wedge. If you want it to be just a higher lofted version of your 9 iron, you can do that, but it won't have many of the characteristics that are unique to a wedge (mostly bounce angle, which is the degree down from the leading edge of the sole to the trailing edge of the sole, bounce helps clear sand out of the way during a shot from the trap, but it can also complicate things if you are hitting a shot from the fairway, middle of the road is typically the best way to go for most people). Now I said you don't want to hit a blade in an iron, unfortunately the best wedges are all blades. FORTUNATELY, wedges have the shortest shafts and the most loft, which hand in hand make them the easiest clubs to hit. Don't get caught up in the "I need to play 4 wedges because Phil Mickelson does." You aren't him. There's a lot of people that aren't him, but they still insist on having their set mimic his. It's not a good way to go.
Grab a 56 or a 58 degree wedge. I'd also suggest a 51 or 52 degree wedge as well (a pitching wedge will typically be about a 48 degrees plus or minus 1, that's a big ass gap between clubs at a yardage where you don't want gaps. A typical gap between irons in your set will be 3-4 degrees, and that typically results in a 10 yard gap, having a 35 yard gap between clubs sucks, address the situation before hand).
I played the Cleveland 900 series for years. It was the last forged wedge Cleveland made before it went to CMM (Carbon Metal Matrix or something along those lines, its not forged but its not typically steel so its supposed to have a soft feel to it, I've tried 'em, and REALLY didn't like 'em). The 900's come in different finishes, black, rust, and chrome (sounds silly but because of all the loft on a wedge a chrome club can blind you with reflections, plus black sets up very nice next to a white ball, good contrast) and standard and low bounce. I'd suggest the 56 in low bounce (there's still plenty to get out of sand) and 52 in standard. Not sure how people are advertising them, but if its a low bounce there'll be a small writing on the back of the club near the heel, simply says "Low Bounce." Standard bounce doesn't have any writing there.
Some people may suggest a 60 degree, don't waste your time or money. I had one in the bag for 5 years before I actually used it on a course. Now, you'd have to pry mine from my cold dead hand, but it took me a decade to get there. They can be tricky to hit, oftentimes will hit the ball higher than you'd like (and shorter as a result) and if you miss and hit it thin you will hit it 50 yards over the green. Master the sand wedge then start looking at lob wedges.
You only want steel shafts in your wedges unless you already have one foot in the grave or you suffer badly from arthritis. Graphite helps dampen the shock of the swing, but you also lose a lot of feel. If you cry when you hit a golf ball hit graphite in your irons and wedges, otherwise, play steel.
Like these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/CLEVELAND-GOLF-900-FOR...1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Cleveland-900-FormForg...1QQcmdZViewItem
Lastly, putters. Find something you like looking at. I'm serious. That is the #1 thing that matter in a putter. Forgiveness helps a little, nothing like the rest of your clubs. You shouldn't be hitting a putt more than a fraction of an inch off center, if you routinely are, bowling is probably your game. Forget about golf. Go into your local golf shop and try a couple on their artifical mat. Don't focus on the result, focus on how much you like its aesthetics, and how much you like the feel. Results come in time, if you look down at your club and think it looks like something a drunken art class made, and you hate that, you won't putt well. I'M NOT KIDDING. There are probably 75 good putter designs out there. Figure out your budget, and buy one. I can't stress this enough, don't skimp. Don't think a $15 will feel as good as a $350 one. Find something decent, stick with used, putters don't wear out, and spend $50ish. Ping, Titleist, Taylormade, Cobra, Odyssey, and everyone else makes a pretty good putter. Just avoid the Red Neck by Dunlop, it was designed for John Daly and despite a lot of endorsement money he stopped playing it because they kept falling apart. If the putter they send their big tour star can't stay together, the one sitting in the golf shop may be fatal.
Oh, and putter technology hasn't made giant leaps. Some of the best putters around were made by Ping 20 years before I was born (I'm 26 by the way), and some of them are still used every weekend on tour.
Sorry for the several giant walls of text. I got a little overzealous writing this, but I just wrapped up weekend from hell and have tomorrow off, so I'm in a good mood. I've litereally written this list or some version of it 5 or 6 times as friends of mine pick up the game. They usually follow the list for the most part, or follow it to a t. Not to pat myself on the back, but the ones that deviate in some fashion end up replacing it with my suggestion. I grew up selling golf clubs and now spend most of my day trying to convince people that the club they want to buy isn't that much better than the one they bought 5 months ago. I spent countless hours a week doing research on this stuff and I have no vested interest in what you pick up. I also tried to stay as vague as possible, because its VERY hard to fit someone for a set of clubs if you don't know basic stats. Anyway, I hope this helps, if you have any more questions please feel free to ask, I'll always try to help you out.
And people say s2ki has gone downhill as a community.
If you haven't touched a club in 18 months, and you are serious about picking it up and sticking with it (as much as you can, Ohio weather doesn't lend itself to 12 months of golf like Arizona does) here's a few specific suggestions.
Ping I-3 iron's. You can go O-Size or Blade, because the blade isn't really a blade. A real blade club has no cavity in the back, the cavity spreads the weight around and improves forgiveness. Best analogy I've ever heard is like comparing a tennis raquet to a 2x4. If you hit the 2x4 on the absolute perfect spot, I'm sure it'll feel great and its distance will be great. Everywhere else sucks out loud when it comes to feel and as far as distance goes, it'll suck even more. If you hit with a tennis raquet though, the very center will be the best, but a little off center is almost indistinguishable worse, and way off center is still pretty good.
Better players are the only people who should even think about blades, and more and more are actually getting away from them due to improvements in cavity backs. Try to find a set of I3's you can look down on, the O-size aren't a whole lot bigger, but they do have a bit more offset to them. I'd probably recomend the O-size over the blade, but you won't go wrong either way. Try to find them in black dot (that's the standard lie angle (proper lie angle is what ensures the sole of the club is parallel to the ground at impact) and you can send them to Ping to have them bent, I say start with standard because you could be upright or you could be flat, its best to start in the middle so you could go either way).
Here's a good example (not my auction, don't know the guy, just fits the bill)
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ping-i3-O-Size-3-w-JZ-...1QQcmdZViewItem
Now to driver, I'd stick with Cleveland. I've personally had a few version of the Launcher and I think its one of the best feeling, most forgiving, and non-offensive looking clubs on the market, (currently playing a Taylormade 425 TP, but its got a list price of $800 so I wouldn't suggest it for someone not that into the game or actually paying for their own clubs) I'm a big advocate of the newer technology.
I've seen the advancements that everyone has made since Taylormade through the old rules out (little known fact, ~5 years ago Taylormade did away with their old school design team, a bunch of guys that have been around golf for years and knew how to make traditional clubs. They were replaced by a large group of displaced Russian Space Scientists who knew nothing of the game, but they knew physics, and they were given the parameters a club fall under to be legal, gave them a ball, and told them they wanted it to go as long as possible. That's the first time science really came into the game and the proof's in the pudding. That year Taylormade released three different drivers within a series, the 300, the 320, and the 360, all named for their respective size in cubic centimeters. These very non-traditional looking clubs took over the tour which had always kept with tradition. Every other major company soon followed suit. Sorry for the tangent, but true story) and the advancements are legit. Another pro that I work with played a Biggest Big Bertha (club came out 97 or 98) until a few years ago. He felt he hit it long enough and didn't want to waste his time learning to hit a new driver, but eventually was offered a staff deal with Ping and took them up on the offer. Literally over night the guy gained 40 yards. I played with him the day his clubs arrived, but he took the old ones out. I then played with him the next day, when he brought the news ones out. Granted, I'm at 7000 feet so the ball does travel farther, but he started driving it in places he wasn't sniffing before, same course, same tees, same ball, same conditions. Now, not everyone gets those results, but he's been playing competitive golf for more than a decade, his swing is damn near perfect, but he grew up in the game. He was a kid golfing long before Tiger inspired everyone to put a 7 iron in their toddlers hands. But his dad spent a few years on the executive board of the USGA, odds were good he'd take up the game eventually.
Anyway every year companies find ways to push the edge even closer to the limits of C.O.R. (coefficient of restitution, there's a limit to how much a face of a club can flex giving a ball a little more kick, the current limit by the USGA is .83, over in Europe they listen to the Royal & Ancient who's rules are a little different, they can get up to .86) and hit to the ball farther. If you pick up a driver that been made in the last year or two, you're still reaping benefits. Loftwise stay somewhere between 9 and 11 degrees. I'm still assuming your fairly young, so I'd say go with a stiff or firm shaft. While it might not be right for you right away, with a little practice and a hint of athleticism you'll be swinging in the range that's appropriate for you.
Here's a few to think about (again, not my auction, not anyone I know, and I'm not endorsing 'em, just saying this is the kind of club I'd suggest...and have to several friends of mine who have asked the exact same question)
http://cgi.ebay.com/Cleveland-Launcher-460...1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Cleveland-Golf-Launche...1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/NICE-2006-Cleveland-La...1QQcmdZViewItem
Any of those would fit the bill.
Fairway woods, Callaway steel head III, no question. I've never seen a club have such a rabid fanatical following even years after its release. My course hosted the US Mid-Am last year and I spent a fair amount of time with the players. Even though Taylormade had a rep on site GIVING away free clubs, most stuck with what they brung, and the vast majority brung these. They have a shallow enough face that its easy to hit them off of the fairway, but a deep enough face you can hit them off of the tee or from the rough without concern of popping them up. Steel or graphite is a personal choice here, I've tried both, and I like both. Don't put too much thought into it, flip a coin if need be. I'd go 3 and 5. You could split the difference and just go with a 4 wood, its easier to hit than a 3 and goes longer than a 5, but that's all personal preference (personally I've played strictly a 4 wood for years until recently and there's still times I wish I had kept it in the bag).
Here's a few options:
http://cgi.ebay.com/CALLAWAY-GOLF-CLUB-STE...1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Callaway-Steelhead-III...1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Nice-Callaway-Steelhea...1QQcmdZViewItem
Wedges, its hard to wrong with Cleveland. Roger Cleveland singlehandedly revolutionized wedges (before leaving for Callaway, turns out Callaway now makes some pretty great wedges, didn't see that one coming) but there's a lot of great choices. Taylormade, Ping, Callaway, Cleveland, and Titleist are all top notch, but none of them will offer much forgiveness. Unfortunately, you kind of have to decide what you're looking for in a wedge. If you want it to be just a higher lofted version of your 9 iron, you can do that, but it won't have many of the characteristics that are unique to a wedge (mostly bounce angle, which is the degree down from the leading edge of the sole to the trailing edge of the sole, bounce helps clear sand out of the way during a shot from the trap, but it can also complicate things if you are hitting a shot from the fairway, middle of the road is typically the best way to go for most people). Now I said you don't want to hit a blade in an iron, unfortunately the best wedges are all blades. FORTUNATELY, wedges have the shortest shafts and the most loft, which hand in hand make them the easiest clubs to hit. Don't get caught up in the "I need to play 4 wedges because Phil Mickelson does." You aren't him. There's a lot of people that aren't him, but they still insist on having their set mimic his. It's not a good way to go.
Grab a 56 or a 58 degree wedge. I'd also suggest a 51 or 52 degree wedge as well (a pitching wedge will typically be about a 48 degrees plus or minus 1, that's a big ass gap between clubs at a yardage where you don't want gaps. A typical gap between irons in your set will be 3-4 degrees, and that typically results in a 10 yard gap, having a 35 yard gap between clubs sucks, address the situation before hand).
I played the Cleveland 900 series for years. It was the last forged wedge Cleveland made before it went to CMM (Carbon Metal Matrix or something along those lines, its not forged but its not typically steel so its supposed to have a soft feel to it, I've tried 'em, and REALLY didn't like 'em). The 900's come in different finishes, black, rust, and chrome (sounds silly but because of all the loft on a wedge a chrome club can blind you with reflections, plus black sets up very nice next to a white ball, good contrast) and standard and low bounce. I'd suggest the 56 in low bounce (there's still plenty to get out of sand) and 52 in standard. Not sure how people are advertising them, but if its a low bounce there'll be a small writing on the back of the club near the heel, simply says "Low Bounce." Standard bounce doesn't have any writing there.
Some people may suggest a 60 degree, don't waste your time or money. I had one in the bag for 5 years before I actually used it on a course. Now, you'd have to pry mine from my cold dead hand, but it took me a decade to get there. They can be tricky to hit, oftentimes will hit the ball higher than you'd like (and shorter as a result) and if you miss and hit it thin you will hit it 50 yards over the green. Master the sand wedge then start looking at lob wedges.
You only want steel shafts in your wedges unless you already have one foot in the grave or you suffer badly from arthritis. Graphite helps dampen the shock of the swing, but you also lose a lot of feel. If you cry when you hit a golf ball hit graphite in your irons and wedges, otherwise, play steel.
Like these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/CLEVELAND-GOLF-900-FOR...1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Cleveland-900-FormForg...1QQcmdZViewItem
Lastly, putters. Find something you like looking at. I'm serious. That is the #1 thing that matter in a putter. Forgiveness helps a little, nothing like the rest of your clubs. You shouldn't be hitting a putt more than a fraction of an inch off center, if you routinely are, bowling is probably your game. Forget about golf. Go into your local golf shop and try a couple on their artifical mat. Don't focus on the result, focus on how much you like its aesthetics, and how much you like the feel. Results come in time, if you look down at your club and think it looks like something a drunken art class made, and you hate that, you won't putt well. I'M NOT KIDDING. There are probably 75 good putter designs out there. Figure out your budget, and buy one. I can't stress this enough, don't skimp. Don't think a $15 will feel as good as a $350 one. Find something decent, stick with used, putters don't wear out, and spend $50ish. Ping, Titleist, Taylormade, Cobra, Odyssey, and everyone else makes a pretty good putter. Just avoid the Red Neck by Dunlop, it was designed for John Daly and despite a lot of endorsement money he stopped playing it because they kept falling apart. If the putter they send their big tour star can't stay together, the one sitting in the golf shop may be fatal.
Oh, and putter technology hasn't made giant leaps. Some of the best putters around were made by Ping 20 years before I was born (I'm 26 by the way), and some of them are still used every weekend on tour.
Sorry for the several giant walls of text. I got a little overzealous writing this, but I just wrapped up weekend from hell and have tomorrow off, so I'm in a good mood. I've litereally written this list or some version of it 5 or 6 times as friends of mine pick up the game. They usually follow the list for the most part, or follow it to a t. Not to pat myself on the back, but the ones that deviate in some fashion end up replacing it with my suggestion. I grew up selling golf clubs and now spend most of my day trying to convince people that the club they want to buy isn't that much better than the one they bought 5 months ago. I spent countless hours a week doing research on this stuff and I have no vested interest in what you pick up. I also tried to stay as vague as possible, because its VERY hard to fit someone for a set of clubs if you don't know basic stats. Anyway, I hope this helps, if you have any more questions please feel free to ask, I'll always try to help you out.
And people say s2ki has gone downhill as a community.
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