Keeping my RC truck running
Hey Folks.
I have a Duratrax Warhead RC truck that quits running on me. Ususally I can get it running first time of the day, but once I shut it down, It won't start for anything. It is not overheating, the hottest temps that I have measured is 240 degrees. According to Duratrax, I want to keep it under 270. I have tried different glow plugs, I have also reset the carb to the so-called factory specs from their manual but no difference. Could last years fuel be the problem? It was an unopened can but it did spend the winter in the garage. Also, I don't need to hear that the truck is a POS as I am already coming to that conclusion. I am getting wicked frustrated. Any ideas? Thanks.
I have a Duratrax Warhead RC truck that quits running on me. Ususally I can get it running first time of the day, but once I shut it down, It won't start for anything. It is not overheating, the hottest temps that I have measured is 240 degrees. According to Duratrax, I want to keep it under 270. I have tried different glow plugs, I have also reset the carb to the so-called factory specs from their manual but no difference. Could last years fuel be the problem? It was an unopened can but it did spend the winter in the garage. Also, I don't need to hear that the truck is a POS as I am already coming to that conclusion. I am getting wicked frustrated. Any ideas? Thanks.
This did start last year. I have set the carb to all of the factory settings. I tried new fuel with no change. It was running way rich when I had it running. When I brought it over to lean it out, it died and stayed dead. I was thinking that maybe it was a compression problem but the engine feels ok when I turn it over by hand. I contacted Duratrax and they suggested I return the engine as it is still under warranty. That is my next step. I have replaced fuel tank, fuel lines, cleaned the air filter, different fuel, glow plugs and glow plug starters. The way I see it, it is one of two things, spark, or fuel.I like to think that I am not stupid and this is not rocket science, but boy do I feel inadequate right now. Thanks.
won't start is usually too lean on the bottom needle, check for ur plug, make sure fuel is going in, then check carb settings. But make sure ur plug is good. Not sure if there is a bottom needle on ur engine, if not then maybe idle.
u said it starts in the morning? but won't start the 2nd time around? if u take the plug out is there a lot of unburned fuel in it? maybe too rich and ur engine is getting flooded. too rich .
u said it starts in the morning? but won't start the 2nd time around? if u take the plug out is there a lot of unburned fuel in it? maybe too rich and ur engine is getting flooded. too rich .
Take it to a RC shop and have them pull the cord. They can usually tell if the cord is too weak or by sound of the start if there are internal problems such as your seals, etc. I heard if you store the car with fuel it can mess up the motor pretty bad.
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Don't mean to blow my own trumpet, but I'm in RC 20 years, I'm a mod on rcuniverse.com and spend a lot of time helping people with these kinds of issues. I've been racing nitro models for a looooong time, but stopped now.
Can you clarify if it won't start when it's warm?
You mention it starts at the beginning of the day, but then it won't start again? If specifically, it won't start when warm, then you most likely have a compression problem, and the motor is basically toast.
Using last year's fuel is not a good idea usually, but considering it was unopened, I would seriously doubt that's the problem. An opened can would have to be chucked out, the nitromethane and the ethanol will have absorb some water from the residual air in the fuel container, or from the ambient air if the container isn't perfectly sealed. Likewise as the other guy said, storing it with fuel in it will kill it in a matter of months. But basically, if it starts once and runs, then the fuel is obviously not the issue.
I reckon it's a compression problem (the classic symptoms of compression problems are that it won't start when it's warm, and the starter cord gives very little resistance.
By the way, factory settings are usually too rich for a well worn motor, when you reset to factory, put the low speed in another quarter (leaner), and the high speed in an eigth or a 6th of a turn, then try again.
I'm happy to help further if that doesn't work... and I can also give you plenty of suggestions on 'best bang for buck' motors for that car. Let me know.
Can you clarify if it won't start when it's warm?
You mention it starts at the beginning of the day, but then it won't start again? If specifically, it won't start when warm, then you most likely have a compression problem, and the motor is basically toast.
Using last year's fuel is not a good idea usually, but considering it was unopened, I would seriously doubt that's the problem. An opened can would have to be chucked out, the nitromethane and the ethanol will have absorb some water from the residual air in the fuel container, or from the ambient air if the container isn't perfectly sealed. Likewise as the other guy said, storing it with fuel in it will kill it in a matter of months. But basically, if it starts once and runs, then the fuel is obviously not the issue.
I reckon it's a compression problem (the classic symptoms of compression problems are that it won't start when it's warm, and the starter cord gives very little resistance.
By the way, factory settings are usually too rich for a well worn motor, when you reset to factory, put the low speed in another quarter (leaner), and the high speed in an eigth or a 6th of a turn, then try again.
I'm happy to help further if that doesn't work... and I can also give you plenty of suggestions on 'best bang for buck' motors for that car. Let me know.
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