[Advice] Engine surge and stall when cold
I don't know yet. But we are working on the wiring of the ECU. Seems like it's a bit messy because the Supercharger sub-comp was removed and leaving a bunch of wires which needed to be figure out.
After a pretty long delay....[My mechanic and I were very busy last month]....it seems like we sorted out the issue.
Looks like the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) is broken. It's throwing error code for that part.
Searching thru' the net, I know that Honda doesn't sell this part except with the whole throttle body. And people said there are sensors that I can "modify".
So, what should we get?? Is this the right one??
http://www.andysautosport.com/honda/2000_9...ic00012790.html
Thanks in advance
Looks like the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) is broken. It's throwing error code for that part.
Searching thru' the net, I know that Honda doesn't sell this part except with the whole throttle body. And people said there are sensors that I can "modify".
So, what should we get?? Is this the right one??
http://www.andysautosport.com/honda/2000_9...ic00012790.html
Thanks in advance
Before you start swapping the Throttle Position Sensor out, I'd verify the wiring hasn't been compromised. It would be really annoying to buy, install, and then calibrate the TPS only to find out you didn't solve the problem.
Thanks for all the input!
I got back my car tonight. It's now running very smoothly.
My mechanic said he took the VAFCII out and re-soldered the wire around the ECU. He also replaced the TPS with a stock unit which the original owner was still holding onto. And it's finally back in action
I still have 1 small question though...after searching in this forum, I'm still kinda confused what the proper AFR should be.
I installed an AEM UEGO Gauge, it says 14-15 during idling or light throttle (which is a bit rich). And it goes down to 11-12 during wide throttle. Is that normal??
I have some bolts on though:
J's racing header (wrapped one).
Basic K&N intake filter.
Tanabe exhaust.
Still have CAT on.
I got back my car tonight. It's now running very smoothly.
My mechanic said he took the VAFCII out and re-soldered the wire around the ECU. He also replaced the TPS with a stock unit which the original owner was still holding onto. And it's finally back in action

I still have 1 small question though...after searching in this forum, I'm still kinda confused what the proper AFR should be.
I installed an AEM UEGO Gauge, it says 14-15 during idling or light throttle (which is a bit rich). And it goes down to 11-12 during wide throttle. Is that normal??
I have some bolts on though:
J's racing header (wrapped one).
Basic K&N intake filter.
Tanabe exhaust.
Still have CAT on.
Willing to bet dollars to donuts the problem was a miswired VAFCII. The TPS was probably fine.
14-15 sounds just fine for idle and cruise. Stoich is 14.7
11-12 is kind of rich so you aren't getting optimal power at WOT, but it isn't hurting anything other than a bit of gas mileage and perhaps a few HP.
14-15 sounds just fine for idle and cruise. Stoich is 14.7
11-12 is kind of rich so you aren't getting optimal power at WOT, but it isn't hurting anything other than a bit of gas mileage and perhaps a few HP.
I agree with urban's post above. Glad your up and running again.
A high flow cat or TP will lean your afr out to bit more optimum levels and give you a good bump in power across the board. The vafc would help you further IF you do it smart and get a pnp harness for it. Or you could get an emanage and pay Urban to tune it for you
A high flow cat or TP will lean your afr out to bit more optimum levels and give you a good bump in power across the board. The vafc would help you further IF you do it smart and get a pnp harness for it. Or you could get an emanage and pay Urban to tune it for you
Originally Posted by s2000Junky,Dec 15 2010, 09:44 AM
Or you could get an emanage and pay Urban to tune it for you 







