I have ap2 V2 is your willing to meet somewhere.

 

Ap2 V2 wheels for sale? Im willing to meet, but whats your asking price?

 

If I can sell locally 300. I'm just trying to get rid of them. I live in Portland tho right across the bridge. The rears have OEM tires that are still pretty decent and the fronts have no tires.

 

Pictures of wheels? I'm also interested.

 

Yeah theirs quite a few variances that give people problems with this...or help people that know what they are doing. I'm not sure what the offset is on your rears that are a concern, but I am running a 245/17 with 38mm offset on a 9.5 wide rim. -2.5 camber with a nice tuck. No rubbing at all, not even close. I trimmed the fenders to be on the safe side but I still have a good 1/4 of play between the fender and tire at full susp compression.

 

Take a close look at the pictures I posted. The rear arms as they transition to full compression our car will lose camber and increase toe angle. This occurs because of the length of the lower control arm. You can dial in as much camber are you want but will only help keep things 'tucked' in a relatively steady state. If you really compress the suspension the camber goes away and you are back to an interference fit. To fully compress your suspension you would need to add an extra 680+ lbs onto a corner of the car with stock sping rates/suspension travel. Part of the reason your tires effectively fit is they are narrow for the wheel size. Looking at them straight on their profile has this appearence:

"_______
/_______\


Which is all fine and good. But real question in my mind is why would you buy a different set of wheels, unless you could fit wider tires? 245's are the stock size for the AP1 which makes the modification a zero sum change. With a 9.5" wheel you should be in the +65 to +70 neighborhood. That is at least one inch of tire width that could of been placed under the car without rolling/cutting/moving clips. 275's would offer significantly more grip.

 

Sounds like a sweet deal, shoot me some pictures and Ill let you know from there!

 

[QUOTE=jerrypeterson,Sep 5 2008, 08:25 AM] Take a close look at the pictures I posted.

 

No problem. Discussion is how we trade knowledge and potentially learn something in a forum environment.

My preferred setup is 205/245 R-compound 16's on stock AP1 wheels. A full set of shaved Toyo RA1 would set me back $645 delivered. These would last 2-4 days depending upon the track configuration. Ideally, I'd be sitting on 275/315's Dunlops slicks, but at well over $300 per tire, it simply wasn't practical. Additionaly these tires would be too large to fit on the tire trailer I pulled behind the S2000.

An interesting thing to note is that you are 50% correct. When the rear suspension is nearly fully unloaded, camber goes negative and toe goes negative(in). The whole notion that this car experiences bump steer is because at full compression, camber goes positive and toe goes positive (out). It may help to remember that the suspension arms are unequal length. Remember also that lowered S2000's on stock suspension cannot dial in as much negative camber as stock without replacing one or more arms. Guess why?

Not really material to the topic. I was simply alluding to you that I understood why you had to make compromises. Dude, it is your car, I'm not going to tell you what to do with it. I only take exception to potentially mis-leading information.

Than a properly inflated tire? As long as the ratio of the tire's section width isn't completely out of whack with the wheel width, no. Contact patch would be the same. It is possible to have too skinny or too wide a tire for a wheel, it goes both ways.

Sidewall strength or resistance to deformation has three chief factors. Load, construction strength, and tire pressure. For purposes of arguement, let's assume that suspension geometry is ideal (a flat contact patch). Load is two parts: weight compressing the tire and any vector of force acting on the contact patch. Construction strength is the unpressurized tires resistence to deformation. Tire pressure is rather self explanatory. With equal load, construction, and tire pressure what have you gained? Nothing. Though you would be placing greater stress on the construction of the tire, and would be closer to an operational failure. You've effectively lowered the tires ability to resist dynamic forces before experiencing a catastrophic failure such as breaking the tire bead under load. This applies to both an undersized or an oversized tire for a given wheel width. Further, an oversized or optimum sized tire will pancake under as load increases, this will effectively increase the contact patch. With proper driver input, this is an intended effect as you obtain more grip on the tires that need it most.

Non-issue. Tires are available in a variety of sizes for any wheel. Increasing or decreasing rolling diameter is not an attribute specific to any one wheel.

Correct. Unfortunately, there is a sliding scale at play here. I have a hard time believing 20 pounds of unsprung weight on a 2800lb car will improve braking or cornering more than ~27% more contact patch(roughly the difference between a 245 and 285 section width tire). Hell, you don't even need a calculator to know this, the difference in laptimes is huge. 4+ seconds on a 2:00 minute lap or eight Eternities as RT would say.

Straight baller!

Apperance is a subject of debate. Since I have no taste what-so-ever I'm afraid that I cannot participate in that part of the discussion. However, cost brings up two very valid points for the discussion:

1) No. I can't recommend an aftermarket 17" wheel with the correct offsets for the same price point. Most wheels offered in the correct fitment start at $2000 for a set. These are very popular with the track crowd they will build the wheel with offsets to order: http://www.ccwheel.com
2) Last I checked, the stock AP2 wheel is 17", features the correct offsets, and cost less than the Enkei. A 255 section width tire fits on the rear without question.

I've prefaced my responses with my application. Again, if the question boils down to cost or performance I humbly submit there are far better options than a 245 which required cutting the car to fit. Now if this is a debate about fashion, I'll leave that to the WRS2K crowd.

 

Sorry for the massive photo, but this may help illustrate suspension travel portion of the discussion.

Static settings for the alignment in this photo:
stock springs and dampers
camber -2.5 front -3 rear
toe -3/8" rear