Pacific Northwest S2000 Owners For S2000 Owners in Washington, Idaho, and Alaska

immobilizer issues?

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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 08:16 PM
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Default immobilizer issues?

Currently having some issues, if any one could please shed some light i would greatly appreciate it!!

Possible immobilizer issues? Electronics thread..
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 09:52 PM
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This might sound totally retarded ...... but try locking and unlocking the drivers door with the key (total long shot but I've come across similar on a Toyota before and that fixed it .... quick & free to try so.....).
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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 08:21 AM
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Not that retarded RT. For the STi they have to turn their ignition on several times without turning the engine on or something like that. Maybe the S has something similar? He found it in very small print in his owner's manual ... only after about an hour of it going off.
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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 08:13 PM
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if you have a imobilizer problem try using the spare key to start the car
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 07:01 AM
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i remember my buddy telling me before that you can actually override immobilizer with foot brake. i can't remember the sequence though. hes a certified honda mech so i am sure he was telling truth. but i never tried it since i don't own honda anymore.
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by psycho art,Dec 14 2009, 10:13 PM
if you have a imobilizer problem try using the spare key to start the car
I think that actually might cause more problems. A friend used to work at Circuit City and one of his customers tried this with his Prelude. It put the car into some mode where it wouldn't respond to either the normal or spare keys. They ended up towing it to a dealership.
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 03:50 PM
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2002 Honda S2000 DirectWire 2.0 Vehicle Information


Item Wire Color - Polarity - Wire Location

*12 Volts white (x2) + ignition harness

*Second 12 Volts N/A

*Starter blue/white + L of column, lt blu 24P plug

*Second Starter N/A

*Ignition black/yellow + ignition harness

*Second Ignition black/red + ignition harness

*Third Ignition N/A

*Accessory white/red + ignition harness

*Second Accessory N/A

*Third Accessory N/A

*Keysense red/white - ignition harness

*Data Bus red/blue (data), pink/blue (synchro) data Immobilizer Module, green 5 pin plug, pins 2 and 3
"The Immobilizer Module is around the ignition key switch. The immobilizer ignition wire is yellow/black in pin 1 and the ground reference wire is black in pin 4."



There's a 3rd ignition wire somewhere at the harness to activate the start button relay. Your immobilizer sounds like its working, if it was'nt the blue/green key light would be flashing when your cranking. Check ignition plug that goes to your driverside fuse panel and make sure its not loose.
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 04:50 PM
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yeah, what he said!!!
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 08:28 PM
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i just got a hold of this..



The vehicle is equipped with an immobilizer system that will disable the vehicle unless the proper ignition key is used. This system consists of a transponder located in the ignition key, an immobilizer receiver unit, an indicator light, and the ECM.

The vehicle has two kinds of keys.

The black master key for:
ignition switch.
door locks.
trunk lock.
The gray valet key for:
ignition switch.
door locks.

When the key is inserted in the ignition switch and turned to the (II) position, the immobilizer receiver unit sends power to the transponder in the ignition key. The transponder then sends a coded signal back through the immobilizer receiver unit to the ECM.


The immobilizer system can store up to six key codes.
If it is necessary to rewrite the ECM, the dealer needs the customer's vehicle, all its master keys and valet keys, and the HDS equipped with an immobilizer program card with the latest version of HDS software. Any key that is not learned during rewriting will no longer start the engine, except keys duplicated with the Ilco Code Key Duplicator.
If the customer has lost his key, and cannot start the engine, contact Honda Customer Relations.
It is possible to add ONE new key without reprogramming all of the keys (follow the prompts in the HDS IMMOBI menu).


If the proper key has been used, the immobilizer indicator light will come on for about 2 seconds, then go off.
If the wrong key has been used or the code was not received or recognized by the ECM, the indicator light will come on for about 2 seconds, then it will blink until the ignition switch is turned OFF. For accurate immobilizer system diagnosis, get as much information from the customer as possible. A blinking indicator light means the key was not recognized.
If the ignition switch is turned OFF, the indicator will blink for about 5 seconds to signal that the immobilizer system has been set correctly, then the indicator will go off.

Large metal objects, key fobs, other immobilizer keys, and other transponders can interfere with the immobilizer signal. If an intermittent problem is suspected, remove the ignition key from the key ring.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


CIRCUIT DIAGRAM


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TROUBLESHOOTING

Follow this procedure if the vehicle does not start, or after rewriting the ECM with the HDS and the vehicle does not start.

NOTE THESE ITEMS BEFORE TROUBLESHOOTING:

Due to the action of the immobilizer system, the engine takes slightly more time to start than a vehicle without an immobilizer system.
When the system is normal, and the proper key is inserted, the indicator light comes on for 2 seconds, then it will go off.
If the indicator starts to blink after 2 seconds, or if the engine does not start, repeat the starting procedure. If the engine still does not start, troubleshoot the system.

1. Using a scan tool, check for a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)

Is DTC P1607 indicated?

YES: Replace the ECM
NO: Go to step 2.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II) with the proper key.
3. Check to see if the immobilizer indicator light comes on.

Does the indicator light blink?

YES: Go to step 4.
NO: Check for these problems:

an open in the PNK wire between the gauge assembly and ECM.
a faulty immobilizer indicator light.
4. Disconnect the 5P connector from the immobilizer receiver unit.

5. Check for voltage between the No. 1 terminal and body ground with the ignition switch turned ON (II).

Is there battery voltage?

YES: Go to step 6.
NO: Check for these problems:

a blown No. 2 (15A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
a blown No. 46 (15A) fuse in the main under-hood fuse/relay box.
an open in the YEL/BLK wire between the PGM-FI main relay and immobilizer receiver unit.
a faulty PGM-FI main relay.

6. Check for continuity between the No. 4 terminal and body ground.

Is there continuity?

YES: Go to step 7.
NO: Repair open in the BRN wire between the immobilizer receiver unit and G101.

7. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal and the ECM.

Is there continuity?

YES: Go to step 8.
NO: Repair open in the RED/BLU wire between the immobilizer unit and ECM.

8. Check for continuity between the No. 3 terminal and ECM.

Is there continuity?

YES: Replace the immobilizer receiver unit. If the engine still won't start, substitute a known-good ECM, and recheck.
NO: Repair open in the PNK/BLU wire between the immobilizer unit and ECM.



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IMMOBILIZER RECEIVER UNIT REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the steering column covers.
2. Disconnect the 5P connector from the immobilizer receiver unit.

3. Disconnect the 7P connector from the ignition key switch.
4. Remove the four screws, and remove the immobilizer receiver unit from the ignition key cylinder.
5. Install in the reverse order of removal.
6. After replacement, make sure the immobilizer indicator light blinks correctly.

The ECM does not need to be reprogrammed if only the receiver has been replaced.
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 12:14 AM
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.... and?
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