Hey guys, going to use these parts for my brake job next week.
Time is running out so not sure if I can order. And I can't find a place that sells both anyway. Well, maybe Hardtopguy does.

Anyway, which dealer in the PNW sells parts for the best price?
And are there any local shops that sell ATE fluid?

Thanks!

And Ray, wtf did you say about preloading?

 

I have a sealed can of ATE Blue you can buy.

 

Sounds good. I want to buy 2 (1 for a friend) but I'll let ya know if 1 will work out.

Seattle Honda has matched Majestic's pad price (with shipping) so $100 for the set. Ehh...

 

Talk to Russ at FTL, he sells it.

 

What is FTL? You are talking about the fluid, right?

 

yeah ATE, www.ftlperformance.com

Preload, the bushings have rubber cylinders in them that you tightened down when things were in the "wrong" position (full droop) there by rotationally spring loading those joints inadvertantly.

 

Ray, did you let your dog chew on that sentence? It sure seems mangled enough.

Bottom line on the proload thing: make sure the suspension is in the middle of the normal operating range when you tighten up all the bolts.

 

Sounds good. I will redo that this week.
It's just the bottom shock bolt and the 2 upper A-arm bolts, right?

So jack up the front/rear, or corner by corner? then jack up the hub halfway through the range from the crown nut?

thanks guys

 

Basically it's just the A-arm bolts, I think. Just look at it and figure out which bits have rubber bushings that get put into shear.

I had the car up on four stands. I just slid the jack under each corner in turn, and pushed the suspension up to approximately the place it would be when it was normally loaded.

 

cool. i guess it doesnt matter when i loosen it up, then. so, get it in the air, loosen it up, jack up the hub a bit, re-torque the bolts. should be simple and quick but maybe im underestimating it.
thanks!
springs have settled also. so ill get another alignment right after all of this. (very happy with espelir in case anyone is considering)

woo hoo!

one other question - i am getting some OEM pads this week and doing a flush flush. the noise has gone away 90% so i cant REALLY tell if they need replacing yet. they look "thin".. but is there a marker on the oem pads so i can tell for sure? i also think my rotors are fine, but should they be replaced at the same time? if i run the pads too low, will they damage the rotors? just seems ... half assed.. to replace rotors and fluid w/o rotors.. but that's me being a relative newb.