Okay, so this thread (https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=473203) got me thinking, its apparent many of you rock your external flash even when the suns out. I hate to go redundant of the other thread, but instead of where and when, I'd love some help with how. I've got a Speedlite 580Ex, and I've used it very sporadically over the last two or three months. I usually use the bounce card, but I have a Stofen Omnibounce (not really sure why I picked it up, I'd like to use it, but really don't know what the best situation is), and I'd really like some help.

Tomorrow our big member guest tournament starts, the course has hired me to shoot it. First team pictures, then over the next three days I'll be getting cadids on the course, before the awards ceremony/banquet Saturday night. If anyone has any suggestions on how to use the flash (I've tried reading the book, SEVERAL times, while I understand most things photographic, I feel completely lost when it comes to the flash) or any links to tutorials, I'd greatly appreciate it.

This is kind of what I'm lost with:

What's the best mode to keep my camera in? (M, Av,Tv, P?) Where do you meter if you are taking a picture of two people (face? eyes? shirt? background?)? What's the ideal ISO as well as shutter speed f/stop?

I'm completely lost when it comes down to it, I've tried the old method of just doing it and trying to find out what works best, and I only get more confused.

Sorry for the run-on sentance laden tangent driven post/thread, I spent way too much time in the sun today, sentance coherance goes down when that happens.

 

Set your flash to ETTL mode. I think you'd want -1 stop exposure compensation on the flash for daylight fill flash, and set an ISO that keeps your shutter speeds below your camera's flash sync speed. Obviously, be conscious of distance to the subjects, because your flash would be of little use 100 feet away, but otherwise, just shoot away.

Use the omni-bounce. It softens the shadows caused by the flash. Less of the flash's light reaches the camera, so if the flash is the main light source, you may need to increase output (exposure compensation on the flash again), but minimizing the harsh shadows caused by a naked flash is worthwhile.

 

Regarding modes, 'P' will limit your shutter to 1/60sec only. (unless the 580EX is different) If you need a faster or slower shutter then this is not the mode to be in.

I'm still learning so this is all I have to offer!

 

Take it from a professional... Canon metering SUCKS! The problem is if you use any of the aforementioned auto or semi-auto modes the camera and flash with fight over, rather than work together to set proper exposure! Best bet would be to take a test shot or two using the omnibounce and shoot everything on manual adjusting the flash exposure manually to simply illuminate your near-field subject matter and allow ambient light to saturate the rest of the frame. It's called dragging the shutter because you will be setting your shutter speed to something fairly slow to adjust for the ambient light and your aperture for properly exposing the objects illuminated by the flash.

Here are two examples:

 

Umm...wow Norman nice pictures there. I think I understand what you mean, but I don't think I'm there yet. I mean I understand the principal behind it, but continually changing shutter speed, aperature, and flash compensation while trying to take a bunch of candids, I don't think I have the mental capacity to pull it off right, I'm only a golf pro man.

I ended up going with P for the team photo's, with little to no problems. I think when I have a chance to play around with your methods I will; flash photography is DEFINITELY my weak spot right now and I'd like to change that.

 

Same for me which is why I am able to recite what to do verbatim.... I never use artificial light, but I'm looking to grow and have been experimenting along the way.