Alignment settings HELP
I just purchased a set of Clubsport Kit Coil-Over for 2009 running on AP2V3 stock wheels with 225/255 tires. The car will be lowered no more than a inch front and back(recommended factory setting) .
When I take my car for an alignment should I stick to factory setting or change settings.
I daily drive my car and drive aggressive and take it on nice weekend rides.
Just want a proper setup for the car and lasting tire life. Please tell me what setup would be best for me.
Front -
Caster: ?
Camber: ?
Toe:?
Rear
Camber: ?
Toe: ?
When I take my car for an alignment should I stick to factory setting or change settings.
I daily drive my car and drive aggressive and take it on nice weekend rides.
Just want a proper setup for the car and lasting tire life. Please tell me what setup would be best for me.
Front -
Caster: ?
Camber: ?
Toe:?
Rear
Camber: ?
Toe: ?
When I take my car for an alignment should I stick to factory setting or change settings.
I daily drive my car and drive aggressive and take it on nice weekend rides.
Just want a proper setup for the car and lasting tire life. Please tell me what setup would be best for me.
I daily drive my car and drive aggressive and take it on nice weekend rides.
Just want a proper setup for the car and lasting tire life. Please tell me what setup would be best for me.
Caster: 5.5-6.5 (AutoXers like to max this out, personally I like to run as little as possible for lighter steering with better feel)
Camber: -1 to -2.5 (less = slightly less "camber wear", more = greater ultimate lateral grip)
Toe: zero (could run a smidge of toe-in for reduced tendency to wander, or smidge of toe-out for better turn-in, I've always just run zero for street and track)
Rear
Camber: -1.5 to -2.5 (less = slightly less "camber wear", more = greater ultimate lateral grip)
Toe: 0.15 - 0.25 degrees total (less = longer rear tire wear, more supposedly => greater stability but I've been happy in my AP1's stability with as little as .15 degrees total)
You can tailor handling balance with front/rear camber. More front/less rear camber => more oversteer, More rear/less front camber => less oversteer
More negative camber, less tire life. Can't have cake and eat it too, unfortunately. I just run -2.3 all the way around and switch the tires left to right when it appears it's time. Zero toe all the way around will extend life, though some rear toe-in is recommended on high speed tracks. I think with an AP2 & stock stagger like you have, you could get away with zero toe in the rear. Try 1.5 front -camber & 2.0 rear. Zero toe, & as mentioned 5.5-6.0 caster. Toe will wear your tires the fastest.
It's a *minor* impact, really, even at 2 degrees. I'm at nearly 20k on my RS-3 rear tires, running 2.0-2.2 camber. There is some "camber wear" of course, the grooves between the innermost tread blocks are nearly gone, but the 4 main circumferential grooves are still all about the same depth, ~3/32.
The cost of running 2 degrees of camber is minimal, maybe 5-10% off of tire life. The benefits to me FAR outweigh the cost, even for 100% street usage.
Toe is indeed the tire killer. I would only get ~6-8k miles on similar tires when I was running max rear toe of 0.65 degrees total. And handling sucked (twitchy in a straight line over bumps/undulations, but less responsive at corner turn-in).
The cost of running 2 degrees of camber is minimal, maybe 5-10% off of tire life. The benefits to me FAR outweigh the cost, even for 100% street usage.
Toe is indeed the tire killer. I would only get ~6-8k miles on similar tires when I was running max rear toe of 0.65 degrees total. And handling sucked (twitchy in a straight line over bumps/undulations, but less responsive at corner turn-in).
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