camuman

nothing else was wrong with alignment. i had us spec everything except ran uk camber. tires wore out way more on insides front and rear then outsides.

i now run us spec alighment and tires are wearing really nice.

anytime you add negative camber you ride more on the inside then the outside. i laugh when i see people with sick offset wheels that run -3 or more camber and say there tires are fine.

i'll rephrase my resonse

uk spec camber with us spec toe cuased my tires to wear unevenly with no noticeable gain in performance for me. i dont push the car hard enough to see the difference in performance, but def saw the difference in wear. when insides were bald i still had 2-3/32nd thread on outside.

with us spec everything, they wear damn near even and i run RA1 r comps on teh street and punish them with my powa

INDYMAC

The AP2 alignment specs are listed in your owners manual. Those numbers should also be in the software for the Hunter alignment machines. Those are the numbers I use and provides very neutral handling and relatively decent tread wear. I also sit in the car while it is being aligned exactly to spec. But I don't normally have someone in the passenger seat when I drive in a sporty fashion. Good luck.

ZDan

I've run 2.2* camber in the S and 2.5* in the Z (modest toe for both) for 10s of thousands of miles, and my tires wear evenly.

UK spec camber with US spec toe on the high end of the range (.64*) would give accelerated wear. But it's due primarily to the TOE, not the camber.

Running the same high toe-in with reduced (US) camber will *still* give high wear rates, though the wear may be more even.

2/32 difference between the inside and outside honestly doesn't seem that bad anyway.

Again, I get even wear with more than 2* camber, but that is with ~2 track days on the street tires thrown in over their lifetime...

camuman

first, lemme say i find many of your posts very informative, and as such i will say ahead of time this post is my expereience and my opinion on this.

when a tire comes brand new wiht only 10/32, sometimes only 8/32, and in extreme 6/32, and the wear bars are at 2/32, you have to look at this.

if i run the insides bald, the outside will have 2-3/32 thread left. on a tire that has 10/32 new thats 20-30% waste. on a tire thats 8/32 to start thats 25-38% waste, on a tire thats 6/32 thats 33-40% waste. most people swap tires out when they hit the wear bars, not all but most, if i did that, i woulda had 4-5/32 left on the outside to middle of the tire. thats ALOT.

on a street car to me this is unexceptable. once i went back to us spec alignment, on my toyo ra1's they are within 1/64 of each other inside/outside.

as such, i dont push the car hard enough to notice the performance increase of the added camber. car never over/understeers on me at the dragon, just points and goes. i attribute that to the overkill tires i run and my fear of dieing on that road.

otherwise, south florida is a grid, each road i drive straight on. if a road winds, its rare. added camber is great when you turn a lot.

last thing i wanted to add, before i tried it, i read all over how great it was and how people didnt notice uneven wear, well, i just think to them there definition of uneven and my definition of uneven are different.

if you autox, hpde, race, give it a try. if you street drive your car only, i would leave this alone.

i wish anyone that still wants to run more then stock camber well, as it didnt work for me on a street driven car. only thing i succeeded in doing was replacing tires prematurely.

ZDan

Even the HIGHEST high performance street tires come with 9-10/32 tread depth when new. What street tires do you know of that come with only 6/32? Any tires that come molded with less than 8/32 tread depth are going to be track tires.

[QUOTE]if i run the insides bald, the outside will have 2-3/32 thread left.

camuman

again, keeping this light,

michelin cup tires are street tires with 6/32 thread

i run RA1 tires which are 8/32 thread new. for those of us that make enough power to spin a star spec in second gear, and when a DR is not an option, r comps are the jam

again, as i said, my feeling on acceptable tire wear and yours differ. i cant be replacing tires early esp when they cost an arm and a leg. again, i didnt notice any difference with the added camber with regards to my driving style, but i did notice uneven wear that forced me to replace them prematurely.

not too mention, added camber is only good when you turn hard. the hrader you turn, the more the tire will roll. well, if your not track driving i dont see why u need it. even canyon carving i do fine on us spec alignment and a decent suspension. i rape the dragon once a year and never see the tires rolling enough to ride on the sidewalls. to me that would be the only reason i would add camber.....

i do appreciate your honesty with your tire depth measurements. thats all i am pointing out, they wear like that. and for someone that doesnt need the added camber, then why do it. u track ur car, so i can see you needing it way more then me, who drives in straight lines most of the time

gtg749m

i wait around 3 weeks. im sure you could do it sooner. on a side note, im on uk specs and see even wear across as well as someone stated above. but if u are going with oem specs, the alignment shops should have those on hand.

ZDan

Pilot Sport Cups are TRACK tires that meet DOT requirements in order to meet requirements for certain race classes. They aren't STREET tires by any stretch.

[QUOTE]i run RA1 tires which are 8/32 thread new.

moogleii

I ran UK spec after US spec, and it still wasn't enough for me. I was getting unbalanced wear like you, but the opposite. My outsides were wearing down faster than the insides. I bumped up camber to 1.5/2.5 or something like that, I forget.

But as you're already implying, it really depends how you drive. I drive slow on the straights, but take my turns aggressively.

macr88

Sorry but the library is not the place for discussion.
Thanks
Mac
moved to suspension forum