Change pads without rotors
 

Hi
as above really. Normally I would do both at same time but car is used for track days only now. I've killed a set of front pads but the discs have loads of life left. Is it ok to change pads and leave rotors or should I be changing both as normal?
Also, as it's a track toy should I be looking to change both fronts and rear disc and pads at same time too?
Reason for the stupid question is I'm due out again in 2 weeks and funds are rather low seeing if there is a corner I could potentially cut.

If the discs still have plenty of life left and do not have any ridges/grooves etc then no reason why not. A quality disc should last about 2-3 sets of pads in my opinion :LOL:

You can get a brake disk hone that will fit your drill. You hone a irregular pattern into the disk, so the pads bed in properly.

I got mine on Amazon. I did the Medium hone.

There's no reason I could see to coordinate changing of the front and rear pads and discs. Change each when they wear down.

Only reason I'd change rotors is if Im switching between carbotech's and other pad brands. Carbo/G-Loc like to have their own clean transfer layer to work optimally. Otherwise, run them until they crack!

Thanks for the replies. The philosophy of run them till they crack is one i'm going to adopt.

The only thing you need to be cognescent of is, unless your rotor is perfectly flat, you will need to use the brakes until the pad surface catches up to the uneven rotor surface - but after a lap or two they should be there

I prefer having the same compounds front and back in order to keep the braking bias consistent. if the performance envelope of the front is far greater than the rear you are going to overwork the fronts

When I switched from wilwood to gloc pads I just sanded down the rotors. use the rotors till they crack that goes for two peice as well imo.

Your race pad will be your hone.

Thanks guys. I'm only using project my hc800 with oem discs so nothing too fancy.