considering Ohlins DFV's or TTX36's
Originally Posted by RedCelica' timestamp='1364506109' post='22435517
yes, excluding reasons related to running non-stagger, which I assume to exclude on the basis that Ohlins from the factory comes with a stark front bias.
With less spring in the rear as compared to the front, the car will be more planted under corner exit (at least on a car that would otherwise oversteer on exit). Raising spring rates typically has the same effect as adding a larger bar to the same end of the car. Stiffer springs in the rear is equal to a larger rear bar causing more oversteer. Stiffer springs up front induce more understeer as if the car had a larger front sway.
ah...very good sir
Sorry for going off topic but what were you doing at BW on the bike? What config?
I've had the opportunity to run SRC's, KW V3 CS's, Bilstein PSS's, revalved PSS's and the TTX's plus I've had the chance to drive on JRZ's and many other dampers that don't even matter.
The compression adjustment range on the TTX's is in a different ballpark to the dampers listed above.
I bought these because I didn't want to have to buy another damper and if I want three or four way adjustability I can do it at anytime.
I also came from bikes and had a 3way Ohlins on my GSXR which worked perfectly, I just wish I could get the front to work as good.
I've had the opportunity to run SRC's, KW V3 CS's, Bilstein PSS's, revalved PSS's and the TTX's plus I've had the chance to drive on JRZ's and many other dampers that don't even matter.
The compression adjustment range on the TTX's is in a different ballpark to the dampers listed above.
I bought these because I didn't want to have to buy another damper and if I want three or four way adjustability I can do it at anytime.
I also came from bikes and had a 3way Ohlins on my GSXR which worked perfectly, I just wish I could get the front to work as good.
mac, i was tracking the bike in the mid atlantic states. i never brought a bike west -- yet. i'm finishing a r6 for track use and doing california superbike school at VIR in may. my suspension guy actually talked me out of an ohlins set up and into a penski 3way. he said for the $$$ the penski was more modern and adjustable.
thanks for sharing your experiences and opinions.
thanks for sharing your experiences and opinions.
Ah interesting, the guy I deal with loves the new Ohlins but I've never ridden on the new TTX's for bikes. My biking days were 10 years ago so things were a bit different back then lol.
I've heard the TTX's for bikes are only two way for over the shelf stuff right? I wonder if that was the deal.
I've heard the TTX's for bikes are only two way for over the shelf stuff right? I wonder if that was the deal.
weird, i thought i replied to you, but i guess it didn't take.
the reason my suspension guy recommended the penski's over ohlins was it was a second gen r6 and ohlins didn't make any newer shocks that would fit the 2nd gen r6's, which is odd to me because the r6s is still in production. penski however, did, and made 2 and 3 way shocks that were current and the technology exceeded that of ohlins which are available for 2nd gen r6s.
the reason my suspension guy recommended the penski's over ohlins was it was a second gen r6 and ohlins didn't make any newer shocks that would fit the 2nd gen r6's, which is odd to me because the r6s is still in production. penski however, did, and made 2 and 3 way shocks that were current and the technology exceeded that of ohlins which are available for 2nd gen r6s.
at this point, i think i'm set to figure out which vendor/shop i want to get the ttx from and get it installed in the next few weeks.
Originally Posted by shift957' timestamp='1364596542' post='22437933
i guess a question i'd like to know is do you track experienced guys think it is easier to learn on a stock car or a somewhat modified car, ie: the set up i am working with in first post?
at this point, i think i'm set to figure out which vendor/shop i want to get the ttx from and get it installed in the next few weeks.
You should always learn, so I have been advised, on the stock vehicle first then upgrade. I dont think it's easier or harder personally, but it does allow you the chance to become familiar with the car's natural characteristics. This will give you a baseline and also help you progress as you become more educated. The best mod you can ever do to a car is yourself. Im not telling you anything you dont already know though, as it seems you have been to many track events on the bike as you say. So ask yourself, is it easier to learn on a stock R6/GSXR <insertWahtever> or a modified one?
working my way from a totally stock '00 to a better suited track day car, i've picked up some volk 17x9.5 +47 with advan neova 255/40's on them, a brembo bbk and now looking for suspension. as the title states, i'm trying to decide between the DFV's and the TTX36 2-way with 650/550 set up. i'm leaning toward the TTX because of the increased rear travel and it sounds better performing than the DFV.
i drive the streets and do 1 to 3 track days a month. i'll prolly pick up a cheaper wheel set for street use and make the volk's track only.
i was a track day junky on sport bikes and am now making my way into the 4 wheeled world on the track. any knowledgeable advice or suggestion is appreciated. that includes sway bar rec's, camber & possible clearance issues, etc...
i drive the streets and do 1 to 3 track days a month. i'll prolly pick up a cheaper wheel set for street use and make the volk's track only.
i was a track day junky on sport bikes and am now making my way into the 4 wheeled world on the track. any knowledgeable advice or suggestion is appreciated. that includes sway bar rec's, camber & possible clearance issues, etc...
The other way to look at it is how much do you want to tune, tweak or upgrade? The DFVs work out of the box and are tuned very well by Ohlins. We've sold quite a few sets and they work well with staggered and non staggered wheels as well as track and autocross. They have some design advantages that work well over vey hard bumps with quick rebound as well as stay consistent over a wide range of temperatures. They are only single adjustable, but adjustments change both rebound and compression so changing between street and track can be a little quicker. Only complaint with the DFV is rear travel.
The TTX has a wider range of adjustment, can be upgraded to 3 or 4 way and can be delivered and tuned for very hard to soft springs. Their twin tube design has a hysteresis advantage so they are very consistent over a serious of bumps and sensitive over shorter strokes.
The DFV is a great pre tuned shock and performs better than much more expensive shocks, thus providing great value. The TTX is simply the best shock available for the S2000.
Here are more specifics on our site.
http://urgedesigns.com/Suspension.html
These are the only 2 shocks we sell as well feel each are the best for what they are designed for.
thanks for the reply redcelica. here's my take on stock bike vs stock car -- especially a first year s2k vs later models:
stock sport bikes are race ready machines right from the factory. the suspensions are somewhat tunable in stock form - comp, reb and adjustable spring collar. i got into the advanced groups on a completely stock bike, suspension untuned, (with 20k miles on the suspension) in 3 days of track riding by way of lots of twisty road riding and reading twist of the wrist 2 by keith code. later, i upgraded from pilot power street tires to pirelli super dragon slicks, ss lines and a rebuilt stock shock with racetech internals and revalved stock forks. i'd say the biggest difference upgrade wise was the tires, as i could get away with what i called "ignorant s#!t". i've only dropped a bike twice, both times were in the grass at VIR. as long as i stay on asphalt, i'm good. heheh...
as for my s, i read that evasive's driver did a 2:12.3 (ish) on a stock ap2. (then they went ahead and modified it to see what they could get time time down to) i was able to get a totally stock '00 with 12 year old front tires
down to a 2:15.7 on my first time there and run consistent laps just behind that. considering the front tires and the sway bar, front springs making the 2000 s2k's rear end less compliant then later years, i feel alright about my driving. i know i will still benefit from instruction though.
that said, i feel the s2k, especially the first year model could be much improved significantly as opposed to a sport bike in stock form. i do feel a less compliant vehicle shows the driver his/her flaws much easier than a modified one. however, i feel my car was at the point of sliding in many corners on buttonwillow. could i improve my driving to squeak i bit more off my lap time, sure. but i feel i am close enough to go ahead and make some changes to the car so it behaves more predictably and planted.
having limited seat time in a car on track, those are my observations. i just wondered if anyone else could compare "notes".
stock sport bikes are race ready machines right from the factory. the suspensions are somewhat tunable in stock form - comp, reb and adjustable spring collar. i got into the advanced groups on a completely stock bike, suspension untuned, (with 20k miles on the suspension) in 3 days of track riding by way of lots of twisty road riding and reading twist of the wrist 2 by keith code. later, i upgraded from pilot power street tires to pirelli super dragon slicks, ss lines and a rebuilt stock shock with racetech internals and revalved stock forks. i'd say the biggest difference upgrade wise was the tires, as i could get away with what i called "ignorant s#!t". i've only dropped a bike twice, both times were in the grass at VIR. as long as i stay on asphalt, i'm good. heheh...
as for my s, i read that evasive's driver did a 2:12.3 (ish) on a stock ap2. (then they went ahead and modified it to see what they could get time time down to) i was able to get a totally stock '00 with 12 year old front tires
down to a 2:15.7 on my first time there and run consistent laps just behind that. considering the front tires and the sway bar, front springs making the 2000 s2k's rear end less compliant then later years, i feel alright about my driving. i know i will still benefit from instruction though.that said, i feel the s2k, especially the first year model could be much improved significantly as opposed to a sport bike in stock form. i do feel a less compliant vehicle shows the driver his/her flaws much easier than a modified one. however, i feel my car was at the point of sliding in many corners on buttonwillow. could i improve my driving to squeak i bit more off my lap time, sure. but i feel i am close enough to go ahead and make some changes to the car so it behaves more predictably and planted.
having limited seat time in a car on track, those are my observations. i just wondered if anyone else could compare "notes".












