Leveling the ride on my new Ohlins?
So I finally splurged for ohlins after running HKS 20spec for a few years. It was worth it! I could ramble on about why but for now I’m trying to dial in the ride height before I get an alignment. I can only afford about a 15-20 mm drop because of my driveway but that’s all I really want anyway. So I’m measuring from center hub to fender like I have before with my old coilovers but I realize my garage floor isn’t perfect. I mean it’s pretty close but it’s off level by about 1/8” from drive side to passenger. So should I just set all of my coilovers at a specific height per each axle. The recommended thread length is 104mm front and 22 rear I believe for a 25 mm drop. So for my milder drop I’d go something like 108 front and 28 rear. Should I quit trying to get exact same measurements from side to side and just set the shock body lengths equal? Am I overthinking it? Also how much can I adjust before needing to restock the bushings again? How much rake should I have for general street/ mountain driving?
Thanks
Thanks
I finalized the ride height last night. I ended up setting the shocks equally from left to right. About 8 mm higher the Ohlins default settings for 25mm drop. This should net me a 17-18mm drop which is perfect for me. I had already clocked the bushings but then last night made some 3-4 mm adjustments. Do I need to clock again?
Slight changes to ride height don't need to be reclocked.
However, if you're checking height one side vs other, looking for exact symmetry, not clocking could confuse results. If you're doing that, I'd reclock.
In fact, I'd leave everything loose, set onto ground, make my slight adjustments here, there, until I liked how it sat, liked symmetry. THEN I'd clock bushings.
Also, secondary purpose of setting coilover ride height is corner weighting. Getting each corner weight same left vs right, and desired balance front vs rear. Very helpful for track.
But thing is, doing this always results in different ride height each corner. Point is, symmetry is aesthetic only. Getting perfect symmetry doesn't make it handle better.
However, if you're checking height one side vs other, looking for exact symmetry, not clocking could confuse results. If you're doing that, I'd reclock.
In fact, I'd leave everything loose, set onto ground, make my slight adjustments here, there, until I liked how it sat, liked symmetry. THEN I'd clock bushings.
Also, secondary purpose of setting coilover ride height is corner weighting. Getting each corner weight same left vs right, and desired balance front vs rear. Very helpful for track.
But thing is, doing this always results in different ride height each corner. Point is, symmetry is aesthetic only. Getting perfect symmetry doesn't make it handle better.
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Dizings2k
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Aug 6, 2018 05:49 AM










