You cannot safely use aftermarket lugs on stock wheels. OP didn't mention what wheels he intended to use.

For aftermarket wheels, I've had good luck with Muteki. The finish seems to hold up really well, and they cost like $50ish. I always buy steel lug nuts. I think the cons of aluminum nuts outweigh the pros (pros and cons are both slight).

 

Sorry using Works CR KAI but yeah do know what you mean about using steel lugs nuts as when you have the aftermarket lug nuts in your hand I don't feel to confident that they will work as they hardly weigh anything.

 

949racing nuts, great quality and prize
Been taking my wheels of many times now and the anodizing is still looking great.

 

I use Rays 17 Hex lug nuts, they are made from hardened steel. I do not like aluminum lug nuts. The finish on these has held up pretty well, but I also use a special socket that is coated both inside and out to protect the lug nut and the wheel.. Can't remember who made them, though.

 

The "problem" with aluminum lugs nuts, and why folks tend to shy away from them, is because they are more easily damaged from over-torquing and therefore become unreliably weak if your shop uses an impact gun on them. As long as you talk to the shop and ensure they either use a sub-80lb impact on them, or tighten using hand tools, there's no more risk using aluminum as opposed to steel. The weak point of the hub is the stud itself.

The tensile strength of aluminum is actually greater than that of steel. Check out this write up: http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo...-lug-nuts.html

949 lugs are 7075 aluminum for your reference.

BTW, a lot of the track guys are using aluminum too: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/965...e-people-using

 

I've been using aluminum for a while and track my car.

The problem people have with aluminum is why I like it. If you cross thread he lug, the lug will need to be replaced. Not the stud. Just always put them on by hand and use a torque wrench and you'll be fine.

This just happened to me when the shop that corner balanced my car cross threaded one of my lugs. Torqued the lug at the track and the threads snapped off. Tossed a new lug on there and was good to go.

 

Ive had aluminum nuts cross thread and strip out as noted, never had an issue with steel. Just personal preference and experience.

 

ive been using my rays aluminum lugs for 6 years and impact them off and on. i under torque with the impact when tightening and use to a torque wrench to finish.

My thing is that i like closed ended lugs. With open ended lugs i see water seep in and cause them to become tighter. I dont have extended lugs so not an issue.

 

I have had Rays duraluminum lugs and Project Kics neo chrome lugs, like both of them, never had a problem with either. My biggest gripe about the Rays lugs is the anodized finish wears off easily from use. the Kics lugs have been fine.

boredagain-2-2 by Jonathan Ralleca, on Flickr

build-4 by Jonathan Ralleca, on Flickr

 

You could use taper to ball seat adapters. I haven't used them but from what I've read they work fine