Megan Racing swaybars
I plan to have front and rear sway bars installed on my 2006 S2K and was going to go with Megan Racing ones. However the site recommends using adjustable end links for both the front and back. They do not make their own adjustable end links which does not make sense to me. My question is should I still get the Megan Racing sway bars and get the adjustable end links elsewhere or should I buy different sway bars. My end goal is to improve performance and handling and in a couple years take it to the track. I am not an expert in this area so any suggestion or advice would be appreciated.
Thank You,
Tim
Thank You,
Tim
My advice, take the car to the track first before modifying the handling bias of this car with aftermarket sway bars. Do you have any idea what weights these are front and rear? I have no idea about the specific weights of Megan sway bars. Do you know what the OEM weights are to compare? Important info. Until you get to the track to really push the car in the last 10% of its capability, you will never get a full picture of which direction to go with on adjusting the suspension in the right direction. The suspension should be adjusted to the tires, in other words the widths and bias (whether staggered or non) and the grip level they will generate, so compound choice is important in this. After that is set, then worry about chassis control. But before any of that, you have to drive the car to its ability with factory equipment first to get a baseline of what it needs. I will tell you, most drivers out of the box aren't good enough drivers to push the car consistently enough to get a feel for this, not to say you wont, but just a heads up for most average enthusiast. It is a very capable and well balanced car from factory, but there are most definitely things that can be done to improve things for the driver preference as well as overall performance, but it need sot be done in a fairly calculated way and in conjunction with other appropriate mods so that things tie together properly. Otherwise you not only runt he risk of throwing away money, but not achieving the goal of building a faster machine.
There is nothing inherent in the Megan bars needing adjustable links. All bars can equally benefit from them, and the degree to which they are useful has more to do with how you will use the car than whose bars you use.
Swaybar is nothing more than a bar of metal, a torsion spring. Its not like one is different from the next other than spring rate.
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
Swaybar is nothing more than a bar of metal, a torsion spring. Its not like one is different from the next other than spring rate.
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
That makes a lot of sense so I may hold off on the sway bars for now. I would like to know your thoughts on lowering springs.
Thanks,
Tim
Thanks,
Tim
My advice, take the car to the track first before modifying the handling bias of this car with aftermarket sway bars. Do you have any idea what weights these are front and rear? I have no idea about the specific weights of Megan sway bars. Do you know what the OEM weights are to compare? Important info. Until you get to the track to really push the car in the last 10% of its capability, you will never get a full picture of which direction to go with on adjusting the suspension in the right direction. The suspension should be adjusted to the tires, in other words the widths and bias (whether staggered or non) and the grip level they will generate, so compound choice is important in this. After that is set, then worry about chassis control. But before any of that, you have to drive the car to its ability with factory equipment first to get a baseline of what it needs. I will tell you, most drivers out of the box aren't good enough drivers to push the car consistently enough to get a feel for this, not to say you wont, but just a heads up for most average enthusiast. It is a very capable and well balanced car from factory, but there are most definitely things that can be done to improve things for the driver preference as well as overall performance, but it need sot be done in a fairly calculated way and in conjunction with other appropriate mods so that things tie together properly. Otherwise you not only runt he risk of throwing away money, but not achieving the goal of building a faster machine.
That makes a lot of sense so I may hold off on the sway bars for now. I would like to know your thoughts on lowering springs.
Thanks,
Tim
Thanks,
Tim
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1457127309' post='23899406
My advice, take the car to the track first before modifying the handling bias of this car with aftermarket sway bars. Do you have any idea what weights these are front and rear? I have no idea about the specific weights of Megan sway bars. Do you know what the OEM weights are to compare? Important info. Until you get to the track to really push the car in the last 10% of its capability, you will never get a full picture of which direction to go with on adjusting the suspension in the right direction. The suspension should be adjusted to the tires, in other words the widths and bias (whether staggered or non) and the grip level they will generate, so compound choice is important in this. After that is set, then worry about chassis control. But before any of that, you have to drive the car to its ability with factory equipment first to get a baseline of what it needs. I will tell you, most drivers out of the box aren't good enough drivers to push the car consistently enough to get a feel for this, not to say you wont, but just a heads up for most average enthusiast. It is a very capable and well balanced car from factory, but there are most definitely things that can be done to improve things for the driver preference as well as overall performance, but it need sot be done in a fairly calculated way and in conjunction with other appropriate mods so that things tie together properly. Otherwise you not only runt he risk of throwing away money, but not achieving the goal of building a faster machine.
Not lowering more then 1" is important since the oem damper is designed to operate effectively around a particular stroke amount, and have enough upstroke left to not bottom out, so I would shy away from any kits that lower more than this. Lowering spring with a set of Koni Yellow dampers is a better idea which is affordable though. Something to consider down the road even in stages, if you get the springs first, you can run them on the oem dampers and then swap the lowering springs over to the koni later.
My advice, take the car to the track first before modifying the handling bias of this car with aftermarket sway bars. [...] The suspension should be adjusted to the tires, in other words the widths and bias (whether staggered or non) and the grip level they will generate, so compound choice is important in this. After that is set, then worry about chassis control. But before any of that, you have to drive the car to its ability with factory equipment first to get a baseline of what it needs. I will tell you, most drivers out of the box aren't good enough drivers to push the car consistently enough to get a feel for this, not to say you wont, but just a heads up for most average enthusiast. It is a very capable and well balanced car from factory
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