Ohlins DFV's installed
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: TX
Originally Posted by Urge' timestamp='1438057116' post='23695186
Any updates or track time on these?
I plan on purchasing some of the pictures taking while I was up there. I'll attach a picture that I purchased on my visit two months ago with one that I have snipped from this trip to show the difference in body roll.
Ohlins left and stock right
[attachment=83245:Capture.JPG]
I have two minor complaints and it could by my doings. I was getting a loud crunch sound when taking right hand corners and loading the left front suspension. That, and a metal knocking sound when the suspension drops such as when going over a pot hole or other imperfection. I need to double check and make sure nothing has come loose since installation. But other than that, this suspension is still exceeding what I thought I was expecting.
On the crunch, I agree could be the fender liner. How wide are the tires in the front?
As for the metal sound, could be a spring coming loose? Can you confirm the 2mm preload or add maybe 1-2mm. Also, check all the top mounts and A arm links. I had another customer had some loose bolts in both those areas.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2014
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Love that picture, noticeable difference in roll reduction.
On the crunch, I agree could be the fender liner. How wide are the tires in the front?
As for the metal sound, could be a spring coming loose? Can you confirm the 2mm preload or add maybe 1-2mm. Also, check all the top mounts and A arm links. I had another customer had some loose bolts in both those areas.
On the crunch, I agree could be the fender liner. How wide are the tires in the front?
As for the metal sound, could be a spring coming loose? Can you confirm the 2mm preload or add maybe 1-2mm. Also, check all the top mounts and A arm links. I had another customer had some loose bolts in both those areas.
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,841
Likes: 1,705
From: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
The springs themselves wouldn't make clanking noises even if they were loose when the suspension is at full droop. Because once you set the car on top of them...they are no longer loose.
I was checking to see if maybe the spring height had been changed so much that the bump stop was active.
Top hat nuts are a common source of clunking....as are sway bar links. Noise from worn links sometimes suddenly surfaces after a suspension install because the links have been removed, moved around, and handled forcefully. Stiffer spring/shock settings can also expose a worn link that was previously quiet when the suspension was softer.
I was checking to see if maybe the spring height had been changed so much that the bump stop was active.
Top hat nuts are a common source of clunking....as are sway bar links. Noise from worn links sometimes suddenly surfaces after a suspension install because the links have been removed, moved around, and handled forcefully. Stiffer spring/shock settings can also expose a worn link that was previously quiet when the suspension was softer.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 604
Likes: 15
The springs themselves wouldn't make clanking noises even if they were loose when the suspension is at full droop. Because once you set the car on top of them...they are no longer loose.
I was checking to see if maybe the spring height had been changed so much that the bump stop was active.
Top hat nuts are a common source of clunking....as are sway bar links. Noise from worn links sometimes suddenly surfaces after a suspension install because the links have been removed, moved around, and handled forcefully. Stiffer spring/shock settings can also expose a worn link that was previously quiet when the suspension was softer.
I was checking to see if maybe the spring height had been changed so much that the bump stop was active.
Top hat nuts are a common source of clunking....as are sway bar links. Noise from worn links sometimes suddenly surfaces after a suspension install because the links have been removed, moved around, and handled forcefully. Stiffer spring/shock settings can also expose a worn link that was previously quiet when the suspension was softer.
When I get it in the shop and check everything, i'll unbolt the links and drive it around and see if it helps.
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,841
Likes: 1,705
From: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
No...the springs are compressed as long as the tires are on the ground. You'd have to become airborne for the spring to come loose again.
If your S2000 weighs approx 700lb per rear corner...the spring is compressed about 1" with the car fully on the ground. So the 2mm freeplay is long gone.
Also...even if your tire leaves the ground for a split second, the spring is what out-strokes the damper. If the spring runs out of length...the damper will stop expanding because there's no force expanding it anymore. You'd have to be airborne for a measurable amount of time before the weight of the rest of the suspension brought the damper to full droop position.
These type of dampers don't return themselves to full expanded position for quite some time. They're not air springs. If you had a stock shock...or even this öhlins shock seperated from the spring, you could compress it and let it go. It would only very slowly return to full expanded position (if ever).
If your S2000 weighs approx 700lb per rear corner...the spring is compressed about 1" with the car fully on the ground. So the 2mm freeplay is long gone.
Also...even if your tire leaves the ground for a split second, the spring is what out-strokes the damper. If the spring runs out of length...the damper will stop expanding because there's no force expanding it anymore. You'd have to be airborne for a measurable amount of time before the weight of the rest of the suspension brought the damper to full droop position.
These type of dampers don't return themselves to full expanded position for quite some time. They're not air springs. If you had a stock shock...or even this öhlins shock seperated from the spring, you could compress it and let it go. It would only very slowly return to full expanded position (if ever).
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,629
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From: Windsor, CA
Double check that the bolts attaching the top hat assemblies to the pistons haven't come loose. I had one get loose after a few hundred miles. The symptom was metal clunking when the wheel was in a rebound motion.
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,841
Likes: 1,705
From: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
^yes. For some reason, tophat center nuts often come loose. I see this on assemblies that have a single nut rather than a set of jam nuts. KW uses a set of jam nuts....as does Koni. I've never had those come loose.
On the other hand, I have experienced three cars with Teins, and other cars with coilovers from manufacturers that use a single (non-nylon inserted) nut, having loose center nuts after some use.
I wouldn't use loctite or nylon locking nuts on most aftermarket coilovers, BTW. They don't have a very good way to hold the shaft from turning. The holding hex is normally pretty shitty.
OEM assemblies use nylon nuts.
On the other hand, I have experienced three cars with Teins, and other cars with coilovers from manufacturers that use a single (non-nylon inserted) nut, having loose center nuts after some use.
I wouldn't use loctite or nylon locking nuts on most aftermarket coilovers, BTW. They don't have a very good way to hold the shaft from turning. The holding hex is normally pretty shitty.
OEM assemblies use nylon nuts.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 604
Likes: 15
No...the springs are compressed as long as the tires are on the ground. You'd have to become airborne for the spring to come loose again.
If your S2000 weighs approx 700lb per rear corner...the spring is compressed about 1" with the car fully on the ground. So the 2mm freeplay is long gone.
Also...even if your tire leaves the ground for a split second, the spring is what out-strokes the damper. If the spring runs out of length...the damper will stop expanding because there's no force expanding it anymore. You'd have to be airborne for a measurable amount of time before the weight of the rest of the suspension brought the damper to full droop position.
These type of dampers don't return themselves to full expanded position for quite some time. They're not air springs. If you had a stock shock...or even this öhlins shock seperated from the spring, you could compress it and let it go. It would only very slowly return to full expanded position (if ever).
If your S2000 weighs approx 700lb per rear corner...the spring is compressed about 1" with the car fully on the ground. So the 2mm freeplay is long gone.
Also...even if your tire leaves the ground for a split second, the spring is what out-strokes the damper. If the spring runs out of length...the damper will stop expanding because there's no force expanding it anymore. You'd have to be airborne for a measurable amount of time before the weight of the rest of the suspension brought the damper to full droop position.
These type of dampers don't return themselves to full expanded position for quite some time. They're not air springs. If you had a stock shock...or even this öhlins shock seperated from the spring, you could compress it and let it go. It would only very slowly return to full expanded position (if ever).
^yes. For some reason, tophat center nuts often come loose. I see this on assemblies that have a single nut rather than a set of jam nuts. KW uses a set of jam nuts....as does Koni. I've never had those come loose.
On the other hand, I have experienced three cars with Teins, and other cars with coilovers from manufacturers that use a single (non-nylon inserted) nut, having loose center nuts after some use.
I wouldn't use loctite or nylon locking nuts on most aftermarket coilovers, BTW. They don't have a very good way to hold the shaft from turning. The holding hex is normally pretty shitty.
OEM assemblies use nylon nuts.
On the other hand, I have experienced three cars with Teins, and other cars with coilovers from manufacturers that use a single (non-nylon inserted) nut, having loose center nuts after some use.
I wouldn't use loctite or nylon locking nuts on most aftermarket coilovers, BTW. They don't have a very good way to hold the shaft from turning. The holding hex is normally pretty shitty.
OEM assemblies use nylon nuts.
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,841
Likes: 1,705
From: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
Lol yes. If the shock shaft is rusty...those stupid nuts are pretty much permanently attached. An external hex that rises well beyond the shock shaft threads would have been nice. Though I'm not sure there's much room for that on the front (hood clearance).
