6 channel speaker + AMP setup installed and rockin'
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From: Austin
6 channel speaker + AMP setup installed and rockin'
Thanks everyone for your help on guiding the power through the engine bay and Lucid, for the wiring diagram.
After 6 hours of work, we (me and Kirk) re-wired my '02 for Front/Rear speakers, installed the rears behind the seats, and powered the fronts and the rears with the amp.
The amp was installed on a piece of plexiglas... looks really nice.
-- Aaron
After 6 hours of work, we (me and Kirk) re-wired my '02 for Front/Rear speakers, installed the rears behind the seats, and powered the fronts and the rears with the amp.
The amp was installed on a piece of plexiglas... looks really nice.
-- Aaron
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From: Bellevue
[QUOTE]Originally posted by amartin
[B]After 6 hours of work, we (me and Kirk) re-wired my '02 for Front/Rear speakers, installed the rears behind the seats, and powered the fronts and the rears with the amp.
[B]After 6 hours of work, we (me and Kirk) re-wired my '02 for Front/Rear speakers, installed the rears behind the seats, and powered the fronts and the rears with the amp.
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From: Seattle
Here's the dimensions for the Kenwood KSC-WA62RC wOOx unit, 15-3/16 inches x 4-5/8 inches x 8-1/4, so I'm guessing there's no way it will fit in the cabin and you have it installed in the trunk? How did you take care of venting between trunk & cabin?
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From: Austin
Yes.. mounted it length ways (same way as the car) on the drivers side-- doesn't take much room at all!
The AMP is mounted in the area where the parts go (the sunken in part of the trunk) with plexiglass... Everything is setup for quick disconnect so it can be removed in about 3 minutes if I REALLLY need the trunk space (you can then route the deck inputs to the speakers just by connecting so you don't miss out on your radio, it just isn't powered by the amp).
As far as venting-- there was no need. There's already a LOT of airspace available from the trunk to the inside... Including those vents behind the seats you always wondered, "What are these for!?"...
The cabin is solid-- no rattles, and if "wanted" can definately boom... I did this for cleanlyness, not for a big 'rap' box, so the sub isn't cranked, etc..
Also, the Kenwood sub setup has its own 100watt amp built in, so I have seperate sub-control and rear speaker control...
One thing I did do, was use Kirks (The Captain) test CD... He made me 5minute 80hz and 5minute 660hz tones.
I used an oscilliscope on the outputs of the units which take deck powered inputs (speaker level) and matched them all to a 3 volt swing (+1.5 to -1.5). Because those units use 'pots' to adjust their output (line-level) gains, I could use the test-tone and then dial in the pots exactly, so ALL speaker gain output are matched...
^-- If you haven't done this, you reallllly need to IMHO.
** Make sure you ground the o-scope to the ground on the output of the until and not ground of the car! Then measure the voltage at the tips.
*** One interesting observation is that the deck (at a full-scale sinewave) will 'square out' (distort) when the volume level is just under the "D" (under 'CD')... I'm going to measure this tonight and see if its really the deck or the little boxes that make speaker-level into line-level. I also bought another kind of box that does the same thing and will measure those outputs too incase its simply a matter of the deck over-driving the unit.... Will post results. (The boxes I have now are 'PAC' I think)
Then I used the gain settings on the amp (1 for front, 1 for rear) and matched powerlevels, so all speakers output the same power... THEN I used the 80hz tone to adjust the crossover (built into the amp) so I wasn't pushing anything lower than 80-100hz to the cabin (thus I won't overdrive speakers which can't efficently drive frequencies below that anyway), so those don't "POP" on big-bass hits.
The sub was then dialed in to crossover at ~80hz (so it doesn't play anything above that). It balanced out very nicely.
-- Aaron
The AMP is mounted in the area where the parts go (the sunken in part of the trunk) with plexiglass... Everything is setup for quick disconnect so it can be removed in about 3 minutes if I REALLLY need the trunk space (you can then route the deck inputs to the speakers just by connecting so you don't miss out on your radio, it just isn't powered by the amp).
As far as venting-- there was no need. There's already a LOT of airspace available from the trunk to the inside... Including those vents behind the seats you always wondered, "What are these for!?"...
The cabin is solid-- no rattles, and if "wanted" can definately boom... I did this for cleanlyness, not for a big 'rap' box, so the sub isn't cranked, etc..
Also, the Kenwood sub setup has its own 100watt amp built in, so I have seperate sub-control and rear speaker control...
One thing I did do, was use Kirks (The Captain) test CD... He made me 5minute 80hz and 5minute 660hz tones.
I used an oscilliscope on the outputs of the units which take deck powered inputs (speaker level) and matched them all to a 3 volt swing (+1.5 to -1.5). Because those units use 'pots' to adjust their output (line-level) gains, I could use the test-tone and then dial in the pots exactly, so ALL speaker gain output are matched...
^-- If you haven't done this, you reallllly need to IMHO.
** Make sure you ground the o-scope to the ground on the output of the until and not ground of the car! Then measure the voltage at the tips.
*** One interesting observation is that the deck (at a full-scale sinewave) will 'square out' (distort) when the volume level is just under the "D" (under 'CD')... I'm going to measure this tonight and see if its really the deck or the little boxes that make speaker-level into line-level. I also bought another kind of box that does the same thing and will measure those outputs too incase its simply a matter of the deck over-driving the unit.... Will post results. (The boxes I have now are 'PAC' I think)
Then I used the gain settings on the amp (1 for front, 1 for rear) and matched powerlevels, so all speakers output the same power... THEN I used the 80hz tone to adjust the crossover (built into the amp) so I wasn't pushing anything lower than 80-100hz to the cabin (thus I won't overdrive speakers which can't efficently drive frequencies below that anyway), so those don't "POP" on big-bass hits.
The sub was then dialed in to crossover at ~80hz (so it doesn't play anything above that). It balanced out very nicely.
-- Aaron
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From: Austin
[QUOTE]Originally posted by amartin
[B]
One thing I did do, was use Kirks (The Captain) test CD... He made me 5minute 80hz and 5minute 660hz tones.
I used an oscilliscope on the outputs of the units which take deck powered inputs (speaker level) and matched them all to a 3 volt swing (+1.5 to -1.5).
[B]
One thing I did do, was use Kirks (The Captain) test CD... He made me 5minute 80hz and 5minute 660hz tones.
I used an oscilliscope on the outputs of the units which take deck powered inputs (speaker level) and matched them all to a 3 volt swing (+1.5 to -1.5).