Aftermarket Steering Wheel.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,003
Likes: 5
From: I live in an ER
Aftermarket Steering Wheel.
Okay so I have an aftermarket Steering wheel.....and after a year or so having it, I'm REALLY missing the Cruise on long trips.
Another board member told me he had wired his OEM Cruise Control Button up under the dash.
Has anyone else done this before?
THX
Another board member told me he had wired his OEM Cruise Control Button up under the dash.
Has anyone else done this before?
THX
Honorary Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,121
Likes: 3
From: Indian Land SC
Shouldn't be that hard. Well, you'll probably spend more time mounting it than wiring it.
There are 3 wires on the CC switches, one is common, the other two are for SET and RESUME. If you have a CANCEL switch there is no wire for it (not needed). You didn't say what year your car is and there are 3 different wiring configurations. I'll assume you don't have an '06 or newer.
Common - either Blk/Wht or Blu/Pnk
SET - Blk/Red or Lt Grn/Red
RESUME - Blk/Grn or Lt Grn/Blk
Common needs to go to +12v, either ignition or constant, doesn't matter. It's constant in the original configuration which is what allows you to use the Cruise Switches to activate your garage door opener.
SET goes to the Lt Grn/Red on the Cruise Control Module
RESUME goes to the Lt Grn/Blk on the Cruise Control Module
For information on where the CC module is (under the dash) you can go to my web site and download the instructions for the Redline Beeper. It has some photos of the SET and RESUME wiring because it's (optionally) used on the RLB.
As you may surmise, you could easily substitute any momentary normally open switch for the SET and RESUME buttons if you had some nifty switches that you could mount somewhere convenient. If you want a Cancel function, press both buttons at the same time. Or add a third switch and 2 diodes going to both SET and RESUME.
.
There are 3 wires on the CC switches, one is common, the other two are for SET and RESUME. If you have a CANCEL switch there is no wire for it (not needed). You didn't say what year your car is and there are 3 different wiring configurations. I'll assume you don't have an '06 or newer.
Common - either Blk/Wht or Blu/Pnk
SET - Blk/Red or Lt Grn/Red
RESUME - Blk/Grn or Lt Grn/Blk
Common needs to go to +12v, either ignition or constant, doesn't matter. It's constant in the original configuration which is what allows you to use the Cruise Switches to activate your garage door opener.
SET goes to the Lt Grn/Red on the Cruise Control Module
RESUME goes to the Lt Grn/Blk on the Cruise Control Module
For information on where the CC module is (under the dash) you can go to my web site and download the instructions for the Redline Beeper. It has some photos of the SET and RESUME wiring because it's (optionally) used on the RLB.
As you may surmise, you could easily substitute any momentary normally open switch for the SET and RESUME buttons if you had some nifty switches that you could mount somewhere convenient. If you want a Cancel function, press both buttons at the same time. Or add a third switch and 2 diodes going to both SET and RESUME.
.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,003
Likes: 5
From: I live in an ER
Okay so I FINALLY got around to doing this.
Mounted the buttons under dash, and made all the connections, and still doesn't work.
Now, I think I may have screwed up and used the incorrect size wire taps. But I was frustrated and it was getting dark so I just gave up.
I have power to the switch, I just think the wire taps I used to connect to the OEM harness were the correct size for my wires, just not the OEM wires.....
the connectors were for 16-14g - Im assuming the OEM are 18 or smaller.....
Question 2: how do I remove the wire taps w/o Fning up the wiring harness?
I used Scotchloks
Mounted the buttons under dash, and made all the connections, and still doesn't work.
Now, I think I may have screwed up and used the incorrect size wire taps. But I was frustrated and it was getting dark so I just gave up.
I have power to the switch, I just think the wire taps I used to connect to the OEM harness were the correct size for my wires, just not the OEM wires.....
the connectors were for 16-14g - Im assuming the OEM are 18 or smaller.....
Question 2: how do I remove the wire taps w/o Fning up the wiring harness?
I used Scotchloks
Honorary Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,121
Likes: 3
From: Indian Land SC
Definitely wrong connector. Those wires are 18 guage at best and may be closer to 20 gauge. Use the red connectors.
You can pry them apart with a pocket screw driver or other small bladed tool, then use some small needle-nose pliers to pull out the metal blade that is supposed to pierce the insulation. Then install the red ones and it should be OK.
You can pry them apart with a pocket screw driver or other small bladed tool, then use some small needle-nose pliers to pull out the metal blade that is supposed to pierce the insulation. Then install the red ones and it should be OK.
