Alpine 98XX Headunit question
If you over-draw the wire you risk overheating the wire and starting a fire. At that point it's a little late to cut the wire and re-run it.
This is MUCH more of a concern if the harness wiring is inferior. In the S you should be OK, but I personally would not risk it, especially when it's pretty easy and cheap to run the wire.
This is MUCH more of a concern if the harness wiring is inferior. In the S you should be OK, but I personally would not risk it, especially when it's pretty easy and cheap to run the wire.
I have a 9813 that freaked out when I first had it installed- the face would not retract when the ignition was switched off and the internal x-over would not work. The next morning I noticed that the face retracted, and the crossover magically started working. My deck has worked flawlessly since.
I talked to my installer, and he said that they have had quite a few of the 9813/15 units that had weird electrical problems right out of the box- after checking the wiring, they just plugged a different unit (same model) into the same harness and the replacement always worked perfectly. So you may just have a freaked out CD player.
BTW, my radio is wired into the factory harness for 12V. Running a 10 gauge power wire directly to the battery for a source with a 10 or 15 amp fuse is, in my opinion, pretty silly. But if it makes you feel better, have at it.
I talked to my installer, and he said that they have had quite a few of the 9813/15 units that had weird electrical problems right out of the box- after checking the wiring, they just plugged a different unit (same model) into the same harness and the replacement always worked perfectly. So you may just have a freaked out CD player.
BTW, my radio is wired into the factory harness for 12V. Running a 10 gauge power wire directly to the battery for a source with a 10 or 15 amp fuse is, in my opinion, pretty silly. But if it makes you feel better, have at it.
The fuse (#22 in the under dash fusebox) on the stock harness for the constant 12v line is 15 amps. I took the lazy man's route and wired the alpine up to the stock harness. I figure I'll blow the fuse before anything ugly happens.
Has anyone wired that yellow wire to the fuse box under the driver side dash, specifically to the "always on" connector? Do people actually wire it through the firewall directly to the battery?
Makes no sense to me.
FWIW, I have purchased the Alpine CDA-9813, and will be hooking it up once I get the Lucid/Modifry DCI.
Makes no sense to me.FWIW, I have purchased the Alpine CDA-9813, and will be hooking it up once I get the Lucid/Modifry DCI.
The only fuse I can find on the 3 'option' connectors -- the unused spade connectors in the fuse box -- is a 10 amp fuse... You could try it, I suppose, but if you're going to run a wire, it's not that much more difficult to just run it to the battery.
Hi,
I put a 9815 in my S a couple weeks ago. Once you take out the battery there is a huge grommet there to run the wire through. I ran directly to the battery as Alpine suggests. Very simple task to do.
Later
Drew
I put a 9815 in my S a couple weeks ago. Once you take out the battery there is a huge grommet there to run the wire through. I ran directly to the battery as Alpine suggests. Very simple task to do.
Later
Drew
Installed mine lastnight but I've not had much time to play with it. I actually only installed the stereo as my DCI is not here yet. I was worried about getting that whole bundle of wires in there, but it fits pretty well. I just put the 12v to the harness and it seems to work well. I guess I wouldn't see a problem until I've been running it for longer.
Does anyone beleive that connecting directly to the battery would yield more power or a better sound? Or is it just recommended so you don't overload the wire?
Does anyone beleive that connecting directly to the battery would yield more power or a better sound? Or is it just recommended so you don't overload the wire?











