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Folks i've been out of town and my computer crashed upon my return. After intitializing a hardrive and a complete system rebuild I am back and hopefull that the gurus can help me out:
I've got a Phoenix Gold 600 Ti amp attempting to power my sub.
When I first installed the system it worked fine, but after driving around a bit I noticed that the sub was cutting in and out. I looked at the amp and saw the three red LEDs indicating a "voltage overload" SO I checked the wiring to my sub, all was good. I then unplugged the speaker wires directly from the sub. I got the same error. Unplugged the battery waited 10 seconds and plugged the battery back in. This allows the amp to reset itself. Then I unplugged the speaker wires from the amp itself. Same error. So then i unplugged the RCAs, unplugged the battery waited 10 seconds and plugged the battery back in. The same voltage overload error. Argghh! With the power, ground and remote turn on lead the only things plugged into the amp I got the voltage overload error. How can this be? I called PG they sent me a replacement amp, same problems.
So I took the origional amp to an authorized PG dealer, thay told me that the amp is fine. I haven't taken the second amp in yet and I haven't personally seen the first amp work, which is something I will insist on doing.
How can I have a voltage over load with no RCAs or speaker wires plugged into the amp?
Another amp is working from the same dist block and ground. No problemo with that amp. It's a PG 600 Ti as well.
Man, tab return kills me on this thing,
I asked the PG dealer over the phone to show me the amp on the test rack working and they told me to come back tommorrow, which makes me think that the amp was never tested.
dave, I get the voltage overload warning without ANY SPEAKERS or RCAs plugged into the amp. It's astonishing, what's more amazing is it happened with two different amps. Every PG dealer I have talked to says they have NEVER had a problem with the amp. So i'm getting it bench tested.
You can also try leaving everything connected but just unplug the fuse on the side of the amp. That has worked in the past. But leave it out for a few minute to let the capasitors to discharge to fully reset the amp.
OK folks, I've been working on a friends sailboat all weekend. We have to fix every inch of it, sand it then paint it. He lives on the boat so, much to the chagrin of my wife, he's been couchin' it on MY couch until we're done. So getting him off my couch and into the boat is proirity #1.
So I haven't done much with the amp lately. My plan is to hook it up directly to the power and ground and remote turn on lead and go from there. The sub amp has a slightly longer ground wire that is 8 gauge instead of four, so I think that might be the problem.
Anyhow here are some pics of the set up:
instead of building a whole new back wall i cut the spare bump out and lined the edge with plastic tubing that i cut lengthwise so I would have a "c" shape; it wrapped nicely around the edge.
not sure what do do about the wires yet. I might shrink wrap them once all the drama is over. They will look finished then. I spent some money on those decorative sub handles. Makes getting the sub out is a breeze.
I cut a hole in the convertible top panel, wrapped the same plastic tubing for amp venthilation.
of course, as many of you know, the amp and crossovers are completely and easily removable for track days.