Amp / Ohm help
Hey guys,
Just a question about my amp/sub setup that I'm about to do.
I have a JL 300x4 amp (View Specs)
I'll use it to power the components and a 10" sub.
I HAD a JL 10" 2 ohm sub and it blew after a year and a half...not sure why.
I've now purchased the Polk db6500 components and also a Polk Momo 10" sub. However, now I see that the sub is 4ohm.
I remember having to buy the 2ohm JL sub, but I'm not sure why. What will happen if I hook the 4ohm sub up?
Can someone please help me out? Thanks!
Just a question about my amp/sub setup that I'm about to do.
I have a JL 300x4 amp (View Specs)
I'll use it to power the components and a 10" sub.
I HAD a JL 10" 2 ohm sub and it blew after a year and a half...not sure why.
I've now purchased the Polk db6500 components and also a Polk Momo 10" sub. However, now I see that the sub is 4ohm.
I remember having to buy the 2ohm JL sub, but I'm not sure why. What will happen if I hook the 4ohm sub up?
Can someone please help me out? Thanks!
Can you explain or give some details?
From what I remember I went with 2ohm because a 2ohm sub produces more sound than a 4 ohm sub under the same load. But then you also have to factor in how much power your amp produces under a load and if it can handle it, right?
It seems like I had to use a 2ohm sub to get 150 watts when combining 2 channels on the amp.
I guess I'm looking for the difference between the 2ohm and 4ohm sub and how it effects the load on my amp and how much power it produces.
From what I remember I went with 2ohm because a 2ohm sub produces more sound than a 4 ohm sub under the same load. But then you also have to factor in how much power your amp produces under a load and if it can handle it, right?
It seems like I had to use a 2ohm sub to get 150 watts when combining 2 channels on the amp.
I guess I'm looking for the difference between the 2ohm and 4ohm sub and how it effects the load on my amp and how much power it produces.
According to the specs, the amp does NOT apprear to be 2 Ohm stable when bridged. This is a possible explanation of why the sub blew.
If i remember some tests on thes type of JL amps, they don't seem to be influenced by load as much as other amps. the 150 watt rating is based on a 3-8 ohm load.
You'll be fine with the Polk Sub.
If i remember some tests on thes type of JL amps, they don't seem to be influenced by load as much as other amps. the 150 watt rating is based on a 3-8 ohm load.
You'll be fine with the Polk Sub.
I think that the jl 300/4 will adjust to a 2 or a 4 ohm.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_a...php?page_id=46
The reason the sub blew was because it was not tune property. This sub will be perfect for it. Just get a sub with 150RMS and get it tune right at a shop. You will have a good balance. I think the local shop will charge 30 for labor to tune. Dont know.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...p?series_id=15
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_a...php?page_id=46
The reason the sub blew was because it was not tune property. This sub will be perfect for it. Just get a sub with 150RMS and get it tune right at a shop. You will have a good balance. I think the local shop will charge 30 for labor to tune. Dont know.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...p?series_id=15
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Hmm I think I'm starting to understand a little. Although since the local car audio shop was the ones who recommended the setup, I would hope that they would know a 2ohm sub would work. But it sounds like a 4ohm sub is better.... hmmm. Keep the replies coming please!





