Here is my current setup:

Alpine iDA x303 Head unit
Max Power Output: 45W x 4
RMS Power Output: 16 watts
Peak Output: 50 watts
RMS Power Bandwidth: 20-20kHz
Preamp Outputs: 6-channel
Sub Preamp Outputs: Yes
Switchable Rear Preamp Outputs: No

Alpine SPS 600C Speakers
Frequency Response: 70 - 22k Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts): 2-80
Peak Power Handling (Watts): 240
Impedance (Ohms): 4

Alpine KTP445 Power Pack
RMS Power Output (Watts x Channels): 45 x 4
Minimum Impedance Unbridged: 4
Best Frequency Response: 20-20k Hz

I am looking to update the system too add more volume, especially with the top down. From all the research I have done, it seems my best bet is to buy an amp, a sub and some more powerful speakers. I would like to retain the system as I have now and just add more 'parts.' Not an Alpine fanboy or anything but I have liked their quality and performance. If there are equal or better parts for the same or lower cost, please feel free to recommend replacements. My thoughts are to add the following:

Alpine SBR-S83V - $249.99
Ported enclosure with one 8" Type-R woofer
3/8" medium-density fiberboard construction (3/4" MDF front baffle)
4-ohm total impedance
Recommended power: 150-300 watts RMS (1,000 watts peak power)
Rrequency response: 28-400 Hz
19-1/4"W x 11-3/8"H x 6-5/8"D

Alpine SPR60 - $199.99
Sensitivity: 88 dB at 1 watt
Frequency Response: 65 - 29k Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts): 2-100
Peak Power Handling (Watts): 300
Impedance (Ohms): 4

Alpine MRX-F35 - $299.99
4-channel car amplifier
55 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (85 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)
170 watts RMS x 2 in bridged mode (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)
CEA-2006 compliant
Variable high- and low-pass filters (50-400 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
Variable bass boost (0-12 dB at 50 Hz) on rear channels
Preamp and speaker-level inputs
Class-D amplifier design
MOSFET power and output stages
Fuse rating: 25A x 2

Is the amp listed enough to properly power the Type R speakers and the Type R sub? I plan on running a channel from the HU to the amp and then having the amp power the extra speakers and sub. I would like to put the new speakers behind the seats (seen some setups in this subforum that look good) with the sub either in the trunk or in the passenger footwell. I think the amp will fit right under the passenger seat or easily in the trunk area. I know I need a bunch of other small things for the connections (power wire, ground wire, speaker wire, etc.) and will get that as well.

Thoughts?

 

Based on your starting point and desired end point, here's what I'd do:
-Move your current SPS speakers to the rear and put the new SPRs in the front. (I'd also consider putting components speakers instead of coaxials in the front, but if you're happy with the treble response from the coaxial setup, no harm done).
-Get a beefier 4 channel amp (90W+ x 4/180W+ x2 bridged) to power the fronts and the sub.
-Bridge the KTP-445 to deliver 90W x 2 and use it to power the rears. Alternatively, you can power the fronts with the 445 and the rears and sub with the new amp.

Before you even start, I'd bridge the 445 to send more power to the SPSs you already have. They're good speakers, and should benefit from the extra juice.
This article shows you how to bridge the 445 to power the fronts:
http://www.ehow.com/how_8772358_brid...ne-ktp445.html

Good luck!

 

I didn't think about bridging the KTP.

I did think about moving the SPS speakers to the rear and then instead of the SPR60s getting something like the SPR60c to put up front and then having the HU and KTP power those SPS in the rear and the amp power the SPRs up front along with the sub.

Your amp numbers make sense.

Thanks for the information.

 

Gonna' try to bridge the KTP this weekend and see how that works out. That might just add enough 'oomph' to the system. I presume that right now I am only putting out 45w RMS to the 80 watt RMS speakers. Bridging will actually give me 90w RMS from the KTP?

Right?

 

Yes, the 445 is sending 45W to each front, and the rears are going unused. I did a comparison between the two modes on my new 445U, which has a switch to toggle between 2ch and 4ch but is the same underlying amp, and it does make a difference in clarity at higher volumes. Always nice when you can upgrade your sound system for free just by splicing a few wires

For more oomph, you'll probably still want a sub eventually, since there's only so much any 6.5" can do. My next upgrade is a Sound Ordnance B-8PT slim powered sub. It's still not as good as a full-blown sub, but it will go a long way toward filling out the bass without having to tear up my car, which for me is a good compromise.

Enjoy!

 

Definitely!

I am going to do the bridging tomorrow (going to get some tools this evening) and see how it goes. It just might be enough. My HU has a sub input as well built in, so I might get one down the line (small, similar to what you speak of) and see if that completes the system. I am not looking for window shattering sound, just enough to have loud, clear music with the top down!

Thanks for the information. Will report back on Monday with the project!

 

Well, you can't bridge the KTP445. I know the KTP445U comes with a built in bridge option, but the original just won't do it. I followed the instructions and then experimented with wire connections based on the wiring diagram. I could not get the rear channels to bridge to the front channels in anyway. Most of the sound was choppy and the power would intermittently turn off.

I did learn alot about amps and connections though (I think I read every thread about the KTP and wiring in general) and was able to tune my HU to better handle the sound that the amp does provide. There is a small improvement in sound to the speakers. I think the plan is going to be to buy a mono amp and sub or a powered sub to put in the passenger area since my head unit has the ability to plug into a subwoofer and has a lot of equalization parameters for it. I think I can pass the lows to the sub and get that little bit of extra 'oomph' I am looking for.

I like the Sound Ordnance B-8PT slim powered sub that was mentioned earlier and I think that will be the plan of action for now.

Thoughts?

 

Sorry to hear about the 445, but glad that you were able to tune it up a bit. Let us know how the powered sub works out. I suspect that passing the lows to a sub and only sending the highs and mids to the doors will put a lot less strain on the 45W of the 445 as well.

 

That is what I am hoping. Pretty impressed with the equalizer settings in the HU so hoping that taking advantage of that as well as using the powered sub will get me where I want.

Will report back in a few weeks when it is all done!

 

How well does that sub enclosure fit in the trunk well? Thinking of this option.