blown amp <<insert help here>>
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From: Toronto
Not unlike AusS2000,
<stereo woe>
<history>
<stereo spec> Last summer I did my own install of a pair of Boston Pro 6.5s and a Rockford Fostgate 100a (plus Alpine CD changer).</stereo spec>
Since then I've blown the amp twice. I have checked the wire gauging, and impedences but everything seems peachy. I've had the car in to the shop where I've been buying my equipment and they haven't had any good suggestions as to where I should be looking.
<mystery>One odd thing I noticed when I took out the 6.5s was that the speaker line had mysteriously been disconnected from the speaker.</mystery></history>
<idiot's disclaimer>I'm not a very knowledgable when it comes to car audio or electronics period</ididot's disclaimer> but the shop was telling me that if the cables disconnected from the speaker and touched each other, that it would blow the amp.
<shameless plea>Any help would be greatly appreciated.</shameless plea>
</stereo woe>
<stereo woe>
<history>
<stereo spec> Last summer I did my own install of a pair of Boston Pro 6.5s and a Rockford Fostgate 100a (plus Alpine CD changer).</stereo spec>
Since then I've blown the amp twice. I have checked the wire gauging, and impedences but everything seems peachy. I've had the car in to the shop where I've been buying my equipment and they haven't had any good suggestions as to where I should be looking.
<mystery>One odd thing I noticed when I took out the 6.5s was that the speaker line had mysteriously been disconnected from the speaker.</mystery></history>
<idiot's disclaimer>I'm not a very knowledgable when it comes to car audio or electronics period</ididot's disclaimer> but the shop was telling me that if the cables disconnected from the speaker and touched each other, that it would blow the amp.
<shameless plea>Any help would be greatly appreciated.</shameless plea>
</stereo woe>
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From: Sydney
Ummm, don't do it again......
I guess the load on the amp from shorting the speaker wires is the sort of thing that would blow it, but most amps have overload protection for just such a fault.
Any idea how the leads became disconnected? How were they secured (obviously not too well
)? Was there enough slack to allow any movement when opening and closing the door?
I guess the load on the amp from shorting the speaker wires is the sort of thing that would blow it, but most amps have overload protection for just such a fault.
Any idea how the leads became disconnected? How were they secured (obviously not too well
)? Was there enough slack to allow any movement when opening and closing the door?
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From: Toronto
<sorry for the delay... Holiday>
Hey guys,
Thanks for the input. I checked to make sure there was slack for opening and closing the door. The only thing I can think of is that they may have come loose and gotten caught on the window or something. I'll go back to the drawing board on that one (solder, solder, solder). Ok Got it!
Hey guys,
Thanks for the input. I checked to make sure there was slack for opening and closing the door. The only thing I can think of is that they may have come loose and gotten caught on the window or something. I'll go back to the drawing board on that one (solder, solder, solder). Ok Got it!
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Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Sydney
Just for the record, I'm not a big fan of soldering end components such as speaker and head units. Joining wires in between, I'm all for it and use a mini butane torch for the process.
My reasoning against soldering is that whenever you need to disassemble the car (my passenger door was removed last week for panel work), soldered wires then have to be cut. Also, if you got movement on wires going to a component, then you shouldn't be relying on the physical strength of solder to stop it disconnecting. The solder will eventually crack and break. You need to use longer wire and cable ties.
Just my $0.02
My reasoning against soldering is that whenever you need to disassemble the car (my passenger door was removed last week for panel work), soldered wires then have to be cut. Also, if you got movement on wires going to a component, then you shouldn't be relying on the physical strength of solder to stop it disconnecting. The solder will eventually crack and break. You need to use longer wire and cable ties.
Just my $0.02
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