Hey Guys,

I read through some of the faq on this forum, and viewed a ton of installs, still i have a couple questions.

The S2K OEM system is terrible as we all know, my plan is to replace the headunit with a Clarion one, use the Modifry control adapter, replace the door speakers and add a 10" subwoofer in the back. Ideally, i wasnt planning to add rear "S-Pods" yet, because im really concerned with just getting less distorted, louder sound, and some bass. Ok, the questions:

1)If i replace the headunit and door speakers, is it OK to use the factory wiring, or should i run new wiring to those new speakers.

2)Would it be ok to use the deck power to power those new speakers or should i get an external amp? If i need an external amp, would a 4 channel be best, so i can have one amp run the fronts and the subwoofer together?

3)Im still trying to decide between coaxial and components, i guess with teh components i have to drill into the door panels to install tweeters, which doesnt sound like fun. However, if the audio is going to be much clearer (since the tweeters are higher, and not directed toward your leg) then i will go this route, any suggestions?

4)Replacing the door speakers: Do i need to make adapters for speakers, or are there current speakers on the market that will fit and screw into teh oem location? I was a little unclear on this.

Thanks.

Shawn!

 

1) I THINK if you use the headunit to power your new speakers you will be OK with the stock wiring, I don't think it will be worth the trouble to change it out. (actually I'm not even sure its easy to change the speaker wiring exiting behind the headunit)

2) Its OK to use the headunit's amp, you will still see a large improvement. One thing to keep in mind is that the overall level of clarity and volume will be far greater from an external amp, and if you do decide to rely on the headunit for your door speakers you will probably want to choose different speakers than if you had opted to use an external amp. The reason for this is that many higher end speakers are less efficient and will obtain lower volume levels with the smaller amount of power available from the headunit. This is not a set-in-stone rule, but for instance a common aftermarket amp speaker selection is the Infinity Kappa Perfects, while many people using the headunit's built in amp use the more efficient (and cheaper) Infinity Reference line.

I would definitely advise you to get a four channel amp. Generally this will cost you little additional money, and greatly simplify your install (no power distribution block, run all your RCAs to one location, etc)

3) Same issue as above: Components are superior in terms of volume level and clarity and are almost always chosen if you have an external amp. Generally if you are going to use your headunit's amp you will opt for coaxials (cheaper and generally more efficient).

4) You do not need an adaptor. You generally run into a mounting depth issue that is resolved by using the stock speaker basket and cheaply modifying it to serve as a baffle for your new speakers. There are several threads on this.

Hope this helps, and I'm sure one of the resident experts will chime in with better answers for you soon.

 

ok, thanks so much for the reply. any other info from anyone else?

Also, what SIZE of component or coaxial speakers do i need to buy to go into the doors?

 

6.5"

Don't worry, others will chime in on your questions if you give them time, the forum is just slow over the weekend.

 

The front speakers are the most important element in a stereo system.

& the answers to your questions hinge on the type of fronts you choose to get. I would suggest that you go to an audio shop with a few cds that you are very familiar with and take a few speakers out for a test drive. If you are satisfied with speakers that do not require an amp, you can probably get away with the stock wiring. if you choose higher end speakers that require an amp, you will want to replace the stock wiring. This is the most time consuming/ frustrating part of the install, but with some lubricant it can be done. That said, wires are the most overlooked component in a stereo but are very important. All audio enthusiasts pay close attention to the the type of interconnects and speaker wires they choose. Dramatic improvements can be heard by upgrading something as simple as RCAs.

6.5 speakers fit into the stock locations but you will have to dremel or cut the stock basket to fit the better components.

Purchasing a four channel amp from the beginning adds versatility. if you are even thinking sub, i would buy a four channel amp now, so that in the not so distant future you can add a nice sub.

I always suggest overpowering your speakers by 33%. This gives them more headroom and enables to speakers to breathe better. They will sound heaps better overpowered rather than underpowered. In fact most people blow thier speakers by underpowering them.

 

I've hummed and hawed over this issue also and last week I finally decided to make the move. I did away with the 'factory dash controls' as the only one I ever used was mute button if I got a call anyway. The new head has one and it's just as easy to press as factory.

So I did replace the head, door speakers. I left the OEM headrest speakers online and of course, the the factory wiring to handle it all. Had I gone a SUB, I would have run heavier wire there. With adjusting the F/R fader I've found a nice sweet spot for highs from the headrests and mids and lows from the new 6.5 door units.

The difference is nothing short of crazy stupid off the hook.

With the Sirius unit I can finally enjoy music in the car again.

 

Just wanted to say that I, too, have been wondering about these issues after browsing through the installs on this board. I have an add'l question myself: If I want to do the same setup (Front components and a 10" sub) would it be better to have an amp dedicated to the sub and another amp for the in-cabin speakers? (Keeping in mind that S-pods and a set of rear coaxials may be a future project.

If I did use, say, a 4 channel amp for the front and rear speakers, would I still be able to use the fade adjustment in my head unit?

 

ideally yes, two amps sound slightly better. You have more ability to fine tune your choice of amps. some amps are designed for the dirty work of running a sub which takes alot more power.

A good four channel will do the trick though, esp. if you aren't going nuts with your stereo.

I have found that the rears in spods can run off your HU amp. they're just for rear fill and they are so close to your head you will have adjust the fader to the front, even if the fronts are amped. I've got 600 watts running to my fronts, still use the fader +5 to the front.

Yes, your fade adjustment will work on a four channel amp.

 

Thanks for the info, makes perfect sense to me!

 

werd. sounds good guys.