Door light question?
The two map lights in the center of my front windshield frame both work when you turned them on and have the switch in the middle. However, when I move the switch to either side (presumably one side is 'off all the time' and one side is 'only on when the doors are open'), then I get nothing when I open the doors. Any ideas - only one I can come up with that the switch is bad (since the lights obviously work)?
Thanks
Thanks
Three positions from left to right:
OFF (always OFF)
Door Activated -- plus "map lights" are available.
ON (always ON)
You can turn the "map lights" on with the individual switches only in the center, door activated position.
In the center, Door Activated position the interior light also comes on when you remove the key from the ignition. And when your remotely unlock the doors.
-- Chuck
OFF (always OFF)
Door Activated -- plus "map lights" are available.
ON (always ON)
You can turn the "map lights" on with the individual switches only in the center, door activated position.
In the center, Door Activated position the interior light also comes on when you remove the key from the ignition. And when your remotely unlock the doors.
-- Chuck
Three positions from left to right:
OFF (always OFF)
Door Activated -- plus "map lights" are available.
ON (always ON)
You can turn the "map lights" on with the individual switches only in the center, door activated position.
In the center, Door Activated position the interior light also comes on when you remove the key from the ignition. And when your remotely unlock the doors.
-- Chuck
OFF (always OFF)
Door Activated -- plus "map lights" are available.
ON (always ON)
You can turn the "map lights" on with the individual switches only in the center, door activated position.
In the center, Door Activated position the interior light also comes on when you remove the key from the ignition. And when your remotely unlock the doors.
-- Chuck
Thanks - so if my map lights work in the center position (if I switch to the middle and hit the map light buttons) but I can't get any other lights in any other position - what does that suggest? My door sensor is bad?
I am assuming the "dome" light is nothing more than the map lights. Or is there a "third" light? If so - that may just be burned out.
With the switch in the center position does the light come on when you remove the key from the ignition? Does it come on when you unlock the car with the remote?
There are two bulbs in there that perform all tasks. No third bulb that I noticed with I put LEDs in a couple of weeks ago. The switch may be dirty. Contact cleaner spray and moving the switch back and forth several times may clean it.
There are a couple of things tied to the door switches. The car should automatically lock 30 seconds after you remotely unlock it. From inside the car with the ignition Off and key in your hand press the Unlock button on the key fob twice to unlock the doors. Wait 30 second or so and see if the doors automatically re-lock. Good? Repeat the test. Lock. Wait maybe 10 seconds and open a door (use an inside handle). If the door switch is working the car should not relock.
(I'm guessing on this just like you, but that's how it should work.)
-- Chuck
There are two bulbs in there that perform all tasks. No third bulb that I noticed with I put LEDs in a couple of weeks ago. The switch may be dirty. Contact cleaner spray and moving the switch back and forth several times may clean it.
There are a couple of things tied to the door switches. The car should automatically lock 30 seconds after you remotely unlock it. From inside the car with the ignition Off and key in your hand press the Unlock button on the key fob twice to unlock the doors. Wait 30 second or so and see if the doors automatically re-lock. Good? Repeat the test. Lock. Wait maybe 10 seconds and open a door (use an inside handle). If the door switch is working the car should not relock.
(I'm guessing on this just like you, but that's how it should work.)
-- Chuck
With the switch in the center position does the light come on when you remove the key from the ignition? Does it come on when you unlock the car with the remote?
There are two bulbs in there that perform all tasks. No third bulb that I noticed with I put LEDs in a couple of weeks ago. The switch may be dirty. Contact cleaner spray and moving the switch back and forth several times may clean it.
There are a couple of things tied to the door switches. The car should automatically lock 30 seconds after you remotely unlock it. From inside the car with the ignition Off and key in your hand press the Unlock button on the key fob twice to unlock the doors. Wait 30 second or so and see if the doors automatically re-lock. Good? Repeat the test. Lock. Wait maybe 10 seconds and open a door (use an inside handle). If the door switch is working the car should not relock.
(I'm guessing on this just like you, but that's how it should work.)
-- Chuck
There are two bulbs in there that perform all tasks. No third bulb that I noticed with I put LEDs in a couple of weeks ago. The switch may be dirty. Contact cleaner spray and moving the switch back and forth several times may clean it.
There are a couple of things tied to the door switches. The car should automatically lock 30 seconds after you remotely unlock it. From inside the car with the ignition Off and key in your hand press the Unlock button on the key fob twice to unlock the doors. Wait 30 second or so and see if the doors automatically re-lock. Good? Repeat the test. Lock. Wait maybe 10 seconds and open a door (use an inside handle). If the door switch is working the car should not relock.
(I'm guessing on this just like you, but that's how it should work.)
-- Chuck
I just tried again for the lights. If I have the switch in the center position and depress the button, both lights stay on, regardless of whether the door is open or not. If I move the switch to either side but leave the buttons depressed, the lights go out whether the door is open or closed. If I do not depress the map buttons, the lights never come on with the switch in any position whether the door is open or closed.
I don't think it is the door sensor because the auto relock works. It doesn't seem like it is the light, because the lights work sometimes.
Any ideas?
I'll add a little additional info from the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual:
When the switch is in the middle position, the lights are grounded through the door switches (as seen above).
The "door open" gauge light is also grounded through those switches, so if it properly shows the door open,
those switches are working fine.
The connector for the switch has both the +12v and ground wire that ultimately leads to the door switches,
so the connector is likely seated properly or the lights wouldn't work at all. It's likely the problem
is in the switch which you'd diagnose through the continuity test described, but often a good cleaning
(as previously mentioned) can restore a switch.
When the switch is in the middle position, the lights are grounded through the door switches (as seen above).
The "door open" gauge light is also grounded through those switches, so if it properly shows the door open,
those switches are working fine.
The connector for the switch has both the +12v and ground wire that ultimately leads to the door switches,
so the connector is likely seated properly or the lights wouldn't work at all. It's likely the problem
is in the switch which you'd diagnose through the continuity test described, but often a good cleaning
(as previously mentioned) can restore a switch.
Trending Topics
Thanks, guys. Appreciate it. Love this website! Lots of nice people and few aholes. Will have to try your suggestions.
Just ran my usually Sunday night route - 110 miles with stars shining and top down. 44 degrees - a might frosty. But windows up and the heater on, double skull capped and gloved. So worth it. All those bums I was passing probably thought I had a mental issue (which I probably do)...
Just ran my usually Sunday night route - 110 miles with stars shining and top down. 44 degrees - a might frosty. But windows up and the heater on, double skull capped and gloved. So worth it. All those bums I was passing probably thought I had a mental issue (which I probably do)...
So how do I check continuity - using a volt meter? If so, what kind of settings would I use?
One other "fact". I notice when I unlock the door and start to get in, that I hear a couple of chirps. I haven't identified these with anything and my other Hondas/Acura don't do it. Not sure what that is but it has to be connected to the door switch somehow.
One other "fact". I notice when I unlock the door and start to get in, that I hear a couple of chirps. I haven't identified these with anything and my other Hondas/Acura don't do it. Not sure what that is but it has to be connected to the door switch somehow.
to check continuity use a multimeter set on ohms - you have continuity if the resistance
is low. You'll have some resistance in this circuit because you are passing through the
lightbulbs though.
Do you have some sort of aftermarket alarm? I wonder if someone "borrowed" the dome light
wire for the alarm? If they did, probably at the keyless control unit or it's gray/white
18-pin connector, both under the far left side of the dash above the hood release - the
green/yellow wire.
is low. You'll have some resistance in this circuit because you are passing through the
lightbulbs though.
Do you have some sort of aftermarket alarm? I wonder if someone "borrowed" the dome light
wire for the alarm? If they did, probably at the keyless control unit or it's gray/white
18-pin connector, both under the far left side of the dash above the hood release - the
green/yellow wire.









