would this do as an amplifier?? This is one of the amplifiers we make here. Thats Me standing next to it. Incidently I built my first amplifier 50 years ago a mono audio amp using tubes. This amp also uses tubes. We also make amplifiers that go into satellite trucks to uplink TV news to the satellites.


Andy

 

By the way one of my coworkers who used to work at a high end auto stereo house checked out my installation and was empressed by the sound he wasn't tho only one.

 

It might work, but fitment might be an issue....im not sure though

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by NFRs2000NYC

 

As long as you don't amp your speakers your fine. However if you amp them your going to melt those tiny stock usless speaker wire.

Good luck...

 

Have you given any consideration the the coil in your speakers. The last time I looked at one the wire was about 30 gage. D ue to space considerations there is very little room between the pole pieces in a speaker and the wires are wound right next to each other causing much heat build up in a very enclosed space. Now high end speakers do use a magnetic liquid for cooling but as the coil is is series with the sp0eaker wires from the reciever/amplifier all the current in these wires also must flow through the coil wires. The flexable leads from the terminals to the coil are not the coil wires. What speakers are you using? Lets get ahold of the manufictuer and ask what gage those wires are.
Andy

 

even amped -- a short small gauge wire run won't do much...

i'm running 110Wrms rated (closer to 150Wrms actual) from trunk to harness (14 ga), and then tying into the factory wiring for the last 6 feet...

i seriously doubt i'm 'missing something' due to the wiring. the S just isn't soundproofed enough to really notice the gains or losses from this slight bit of cheating.

http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm

http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/speakerwi...orassistant.swf

i seem to remember having a rather detailed conversation about this w/ InsaneInNC...

 

So then - a person with experience uses stock for last part of run - I like that, unless heat is an issue - what amp would you recommend to drive front and rear speakers?



[QUOTE]Originally posted by PJK3
even amped -- a short small gauge wire run won't do much...

i'm running 110Wrms rated (closer to 150Wrms actual) from trunk to harness (14 ga), and then tying into the factory wiring for the last 6 feet...

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Andy Kirk
Have you given any consideration the the coil in your speakers.

 

Dude.. if you do anything up to 50 watts RMS the stock wire should be perfectly fine.. I've installed dozens upon dozens of stereos this way and NEVER had a problem..

-BUT-

Running new wire in a S2000 is probably one of the easiest cars I have EVER done.. once you get rid of the tape at each end of the black rubber hose.. 16 guage speaker wire almost slides right through without trouble.. If it wasnt so easy I'd say go with the stock wiring.. but being that it took me about 5 min to get the wire through both door jambs(majority of the work) I did it anyways..

Its the cars that have molex plugs in the door jambs, you have to unplug them first (HUGE PITA) and then you have to drill holes through each side to fit the wire through it... I've done it once on my own car (my old 99 Si) I wouldnt do it for somebody else unless it paid $75-$100 a door..


I'd say for the S2000.. run new wire... its stupid easy and you cant be THAT lazy.. as for any car with molex plugs.. fugg it.. just use the stock wiring