getting the most out of my Amp
I know there are different ways to wire your speakers from the amp. I just dont know whats best for me and why.
I have a new sony HU mex-bt3900u ..http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158BT39...ures_and_specs
I just installed polk audio 6501's components. I have a Kenwood KAC-8405 http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAC8...05.html?tp=115 on the way have not hooked up yet.
I am not sure if i will be adding a subwoofer. It depends on how well this setup sounds. I feel i might add a sub, just by the lack of base from the HU and polks.(no amp attached)
My question is with what i have, what hookup( AMP )will get me the most power to my two speakers or 3(sub), and why.
Thanks in advance
Lithoman
I have a new sony HU mex-bt3900u ..http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158BT39...ures_and_specs
I just installed polk audio 6501's components. I have a Kenwood KAC-8405 http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAC8...05.html?tp=115 on the way have not hooked up yet.
I am not sure if i will be adding a subwoofer. It depends on how well this setup sounds. I feel i might add a sub, just by the lack of base from the HU and polks.(no amp attached)
My question is with what i have, what hookup( AMP )will get me the most power to my two speakers or 3(sub), and why.
Thanks in advance
Lithoman
If you have no sub, you can use the 4 amp channels to power each of your 4 speaker drivers (Left Woofer, Right Woofer, Left Tweeter, Right Tweeter).
You can do this "actively" which is to use the "front" output of the HU channels 1&2 on the amp, and the "rear" output of the HU to channels 3&4 on the amp - you will need to set the crossover on the HU up properly in order to do this.
You then run separate cables from the amp to each speaker driver, with the gains adjusted accordingly - you'll need less gain for the tweeters.
If you want a sub, then you'll have to use the crossovers that come with the speakers, and run the amp in 3 channel mode.
You can do this "actively" which is to use the "front" output of the HU channels 1&2 on the amp, and the "rear" output of the HU to channels 3&4 on the amp - you will need to set the crossover on the HU up properly in order to do this.
You then run separate cables from the amp to each speaker driver, with the gains adjusted accordingly - you'll need less gain for the tweeters.
If you want a sub, then you'll have to use the crossovers that come with the speakers, and run the amp in 3 channel mode.
If you have no sub, you can use the 4 amp channels to power each of your 4 speaker drivers (Left Woofer, Right Woofer, Left Tweeter, Right Tweeter).
You can do this "actively" which is to use the "front" output of the HU channels 1&2 on the amp, and the "rear" output of the HU to channels 3&4 on the amp - you will need to set the crossover on the HU up properly in order to do this.
You then run separate cables from the amp to each speaker driver, with the gains adjusted accordingly - you'll need less gain for the tweeters.
If you want a sub, then you'll have to use the crossovers that come with the speakers, and run the amp in 3 channel mode.
You can do this "actively" which is to use the "front" output of the HU channels 1&2 on the amp, and the "rear" output of the HU to channels 3&4 on the amp - you will need to set the crossover on the HU up properly in order to do this.
You then run separate cables from the amp to each speaker driver, with the gains adjusted accordingly - you'll need less gain for the tweeters.
If you want a sub, then you'll have to use the crossovers that come with the speakers, and run the amp in 3 channel mode.
Thanks
Have a read of this http://www.mmsa.org.uk/guides/car_audio/speakers.html under "The Speaker Crossover"
Crossovers sap power, so it's more efficient to have them before the signals are amplified, rather than afterwards.
It is trickier to set up correctly, so you need the assistance of someone who knows what they're doing. If you don't, then it's probably best to stick with the passive crossovers, and use a sub.
Using a sub is a good idea, because it means that there's a lot less work for the woofers to do. Rather than "wasting" amplifier power trying to drive he woofers at very low frequencies (the more you have to move the speakers, the more power you need), you let the sub (and half the amplifier power) do the work.
Headrest speakers are a waste of time IMO and spoil any stereo image you might have, though you can probably just leave them connected directly to the HU if you wish.
Crossovers sap power, so it's more efficient to have them before the signals are amplified, rather than afterwards.
It is trickier to set up correctly, so you need the assistance of someone who knows what they're doing. If you don't, then it's probably best to stick with the passive crossovers, and use a sub.
Using a sub is a good idea, because it means that there's a lot less work for the woofers to do. Rather than "wasting" amplifier power trying to drive he woofers at very low frequencies (the more you have to move the speakers, the more power you need), you let the sub (and half the amplifier power) do the work.
Headrest speakers are a waste of time IMO and spoil any stereo image you might have, though you can probably just leave them connected directly to the HU if you wish.
Good read..ty.
I think i am getting.http://www.crutchfield.com/s_500SWR1...DynamicContent
Will the amp i have power the front two and handle this sub. Also my head unit has a sub out (mono)which looks like it goes direct to the sub not to an amp? Which out puts should i use for the sub ? rca plug rear channel outputs or sub out mono?
thanks
I think i am getting.http://www.crutchfield.com/s_500SWR1...DynamicContent
Will the amp i have power the front two and handle this sub. Also my head unit has a sub out (mono)which looks like it goes direct to the sub not to an amp? Which out puts should i use for the sub ? rca plug rear channel outputs or sub out mono?
thanks
The installation manuals aren't clear whether the sub out is line level or speaker level, i think it might be speaker level, but I suspect that it won't be enough to drive the sub you're after.
However, you can use the rear line level outputs as sub outputs (see page 29) which is probably the best way to go.
I wouldn't recommend that sub for use with your amp - it's too good for it. you'd be better off with an S series http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWS1...s1023&skipvs=T
I have one of these, and it's more than adequate, $50 cheaper too.
However, you can use the rear line level outputs as sub outputs (see page 29) which is probably the best way to go.
I wouldn't recommend that sub for use with your amp - it's too good for it. you'd be better off with an S series http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWS1...s1023&skipvs=T
I have one of these, and it's more than adequate, $50 cheaper too.
Amazon has the SWR-1023D for 121.00 shipped. Are you saying my amp would not have enough power to push it? And i would get better sound from the SWS? I am planning on putting it in the tool well. Just want to make sure that I have enough base from 1 sub in the trunk.
thanks for your input.... I am new at this.
thanks for your input.... I am new at this.
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It's "bass", not "base".
The R range will work better with a more powerful amp.
The S range will work better with your less powerful amp and is more than adequate. I have an S in my boot and it's enough to make the whole bootlid rattle.
Save your money.
The R range will work better with a more powerful amp.
The S range will work better with your less powerful amp and is more than adequate. I have an S in my boot and it's enough to make the whole bootlid rattle.
Save your money.
Thanks again
Just got my sub thank you for your recommendation...$ savings. I plan on setting up tomorrow. One question is what way should I wire it to get the most from my components and the one sub? The sub is 2-ohm.
thanks again
thanks again






