Hi, I've been thinking about replacing the headunit and the front speakers. Here's a question. If a headunit is rated for 22 watts RMS for 4 channels, if I am only using two of those channels as is the case with the S2000 (fronts only), then would the each of the two channels get 44 watts RMS or still only 22 watts per channel? I need an answer so I can figure out what RMS wattage I should get for the two front speakers. I figure 50 watts per channel for the fronts would be enough for the speakers right? One more thing is, if I replace the headunit and keep the MY00 stock speakers, will they sound much louder with an aftermarket headunit or will I need to replace the speakers too?

 

I do not believe you can bridge connections of the HU. You will only get 22 out of each channel.

 

I do not believe you can bridge connections of the HU. You will only get 22 out of each channel.
But...telling the brand and model number may help you get some better responses from someone else.

 

Fwiw, the 00 radio puts out something like 7 wtts rms, so even 22 watts per channel will be a huge improvement. If you add an amp later, internal power won't matter either.

 

Yes you can bridge the power, it gives you some weird side effects, but if you wire it up correctly, it's putting more power where you want it, ie, your speakers.

By just replacing the headunit, the speakers will sound better, but better than trash is still kinda low.

If you have enough money, replace both the headunit and the speakers, otherwise replace the headunit now, and the speakers when you get more cash.

 

^Mostly incorrect, though if you provided details on how to do it or in what special cases it would work I might let you slide. The comment about "wierd side effects" doesn't mean anything to me (or to anybody else I'm sure). What's weird, the sound coming out of the speakers or the fact that the HU catches fire?

neoarroyo - You should provide more information on the particular HU and it's specifications. Is that 22W into 4 ohms or 2? Is it RMS power output or "maximum" power?

Here are some GENERAL rules that will apply to most after-market head units:

1. They use audio amplifiers that are already bridged (inside the HU) - that's how they get more than the "standard" 6 or 7 watts that comes from the factory HU.
2. Regardless of the rated power, actual output will be around 16 watts per channel with a 4 ohm load. Sony likes to advertise "4x50W" but they have re-defined "watt" to be whatever the marketing department thinks is a good number. I've measured several "4x50W" Sony's - they're only 16W. And I've measured at least one or two Alpine, JVC, Kenwood, Clarion, Blaupunkt, and Pioneer head units and not one of them has broken the 17W mark.
3. While it's technically impossible to "bridge" the outputs of a typical HU it might be possible to parallel them (though I wouldn't recommend it). This would allow you to run 2 ohm speakers and get the total output power (2x32W). But you better make sure the balance control is dead-center or something's going to pop. Also, 2 ohm speakers are not that common, and if you're going to parallel two 4-ohm speakers then you might as well wire the speakers individually to each amplifier and not run the risk of blowing up something.

The exception to the above rule is when a HU has a built-in or out-board amplifier that uses a DC-DC converter. The converter provides a higher voltage power supply (higher than the car's 12-13v) which allows an amplifier design that can generate more than 16W into 4 ohms. These amplifiers may be bridgeable but you should check the manufacturers specifications before trying it.

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Well, I'm thinking about putting in the Sony CDX-GT500 unit in. It is rate at 52x4, but like you said, it is actually 17 RMS per channel. With this unit, how easy is it to be able to keep the left side remote dash controls and have it set up so that the volume is speed sensitive? I'm not very good with any of this electrical stuff. If anyone around the Boston area or New England area is available to help it install it, that would be cool, otherwise I am at a lost and just have to trust the Best Buy guys. I am hoping to avoid this of course.

 

I'd definitely suggest trying to enlist help from local S2000 owners, but before reverting to a chain store you may want to look for a locally-owned stereo shop. They usually have better techs and are more willing to do "non-standard" things.

You have a few choices for retaining the dash controls and the shops should be familiar with at least one of them. My suggestion (of course!) is to use the Wired DCI for this head unit since it will give you the speed-controlled-volume and some extra commands that are not available with other products. If you're going to get a shop to install it you should download and print the manual so you can show the tech to get a quote for the install. I would think a straight-forward HU install (like this is) with a DCI should not be more than a 2 hour job.

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What I did was just bridge the two negatives (Rear Left and Front Left) to the left door speaker and the same with the two positives, then do the same thing for the right side.

My speakers are getting more power now, and the headunit is not on fire.

In regards to weird side effects, what I was referring to was that I would think the sound would be loudest with the fader set to 0, ie, center, but it sounds best with the fader set a couple notches to the rear.

The HU I use is a couple years old panasonic, don't know the exact model.